We are having to replace the Inlet valve on my Whirlpool Cabrio. However we can't seem to get the old valve off. My question is, how do you disconnect the old valve from the washer?
Answer Hello Naomi,
You will have to raise the main top and remove the hoses from underneath as well as disconnecting the connections in the control panel to remove the water valve.
Inlet valve was cracked. Ordered new part and replaced it. It is showing F54 fault code.
Answer Carole, F54 Motor Control Overcurrent F then 54 flashes when the machine/motor control detects high current for the motor module. Check and make sure you didn't leave any wires loose or disconnected and the control board. Check and make sure the tub turns freely. Also check to make sure the wiring harness to the motor and sensor on the bottom of the tub didn't get dislodged or knocked loose.
The washer partially dispenses hot water in any cycle. I have checked inlet lines screen for a blockage. The best it ever does is about 80 degrees slightly above room temperature. I understand that this is an HE machine and temp is controlled by this valve. Is the valve W10364988 defective? The washer has done this since it was new and never got a straight answer from whirlpool. Thanks in advance for your response.
Answer Kazoo, At present, it doesn't sound like you have a problem, " Measure the water temperature, and verify it is 85°±10°F (29°±6°C). If the water temperature is correct, ATC is functional". You're correct, the control and thermistor have "target" temperatures, and the hot water solenoid is activated during the fill cycle to attempt to achieve those targets. There are other factors involved as well, like the cold water temperature, If the temperature is extremely low or high in a lot of cases the target temperature can't be met. But at this point it doesn't sound like that's an issue here.
My washer starts to fill and then stops, hums, and then I get the LF Trouble code flashing after about 5 mins of humming. Once I get the tub to fill after turning off and on like 10 times, it will run ok through the wash cycle, but then does same thing when it comes time to rinse. I need to test the inlet valve to see if it is faulty, but I need to know what Ohms it should read if good and what ohms if bad. If it is not the inlet valve, then some say it's the controller, so how do you test that as well with a multimeter??
As far as testing the control board you can only test for voltage out. If there is voltage going to the valve then the board is good. The first suggestion would be to check the inlet screens on the water valve to ensure that they are not clogged. If the screens check ok, then you will want to check the valve. The valves should have a resistance of 790 to 840 ohms. If there is power getting to the valve though it is likely the valve is bad or the inlet screen is clogged.
How do you remove top to replace water valve on Maytag MVWb300WQ1?
Answer Hello Joey. On the front corners under the top, there are clips. Use a flat blade putty knife and release those clips by pressing in on them and raise the top and lean it back.
I have changed my water inlet valve and I can hear the water running but my machine is not filling up do I have the hoses hooked up wrong
If the water is running but the unit is not filling then you will want to make sure that the drain hose is not pushed too far down into the standpipe. If this is the case it would cause a siphoning of the water out of the unit.