I have hooked everything thing up with the new water valve but now I have no power to my washer. I have checked the outlet with a lamp and the washer was turning on (although it was leaking out the back) before the repair. Any reason I shouldn't have power?
Answer L G,
You will want to check the noise filter that the power cord plugs into and make sure that there is 120 vac going into it and 120 vac coming out. If there is power in but not out then the filter is faulty and would need to be replaced. If there is power in and out then test the main control board to make sure that there is power getting to the board. If there is then the main board would be the issue and would need to be replaced.
Where does the blue wire plug in at for this?
Answer Hello. One end attached to the thermistor of the valve and the other end into the control board.
How do you replace the water valve on this model?
Answer Hello Jermaine. You need to unplug the unit. then remove the console from the unit. Now, unplug the wires for the valve and remove the screws. Then use a putty knife to release the top panel clips in the front and lift the top panel to access the hoses under the top. Remove the hoses from the valve and remove the valve from the unit. Install new water valve in reverse order.
Due to recent freeze had to replace water control valve and mother board due to water spraying up under the control panel cover. Have replaced both parts but when you start the washer after about a minute of running it throws a F1 error code. What is this code.
The F1 is an indication that the pressure signal is out of range. You will want to check the pressure hose connection from the tub to the machine control board and make sure that the hose is not pinched, kinked or clogged. If this checks ok then the issue is in the control board.
The washer makes loud clicking/buzzing, rumbling sounds when the pump begins to empty water from the tub during the wash and spin cycle. There are no leaks or any fluid dripping from the unit. Any ideas?
Based on the description it sounds like the bearings in the drain pump W10536347 may be going bad. You will want to check the pump to make sure that there are not clogs in the pump that would cause it to run hard or cause it to bind.
Can you send me the instructions to install this part on my washing machine so I can determine if I can do it or if I need technical help? The problem is both hot and cold water get to back of washer but only hot gets into washer. Cold inline filter is not cloged or dissloged. Doc
Answer Hello Doc,
The first thing you do is unplug the machine and turn the water supply faucets off. Loosen the three screws across the back of the control panel and flip the control panel up and out of the way. (Don't let it hang by the wires). You can disconnect the harness to the panel if you can remember to reattach it during re-assembly. Now you are looking straight at the water valve. Unscrew the hoses from the valve and make sure you don't mix them up. You can mark them if need be. Wrap a piece of tape around one of them before you remove them and remember which side the taped one goes on. Unplug the wires from the valve and note the length. They are easy to remember as they have to be manipulated to install them in the wrong positions.
Now, using a paint scraper or putty knife, raise the washer top to gain access to the dispense hoses. Take a picture of these with your cell phone for re-assembly reference. After you have removed the hoses, raise the top and there should be a screw holding the valve assembly in place. Removal of this screw should free up the valve for removal.
From this point it's a matter of re-assembly in the reverse order.
My washer is making a screeching squealing noise when the fill valves open. Water flows normally, but they make a high pitched sound while the water is running through them. I have run the manual diagnostic series and found that it happens during Codes C3 and C4 when two different solenoids engage. This corresponds to the "Select Cycle with Knob" test where it happens on Heavy Duty and Normal. The wires connecting to the solenoids are Purple and White. Is there a way to flush the valve assembly to remove build-up or possibly let it soak overnight in a vinegar bath? Water is flowing fine, it's just that SOUND! Thanks for your informative and educational site, and insight!
Answer Hello Marshall,
Turn off your water and start the machine. When it gets to the fill portion of the cycle, if the noise is no longer present, the water inlet valve W10372095 is defective. Before you order the new valve, check the hoses for screens and clean them if they are stopping up with mineral deposits or sedimentation from the water supply. This noise is related to the water going through the screens or the valve. It isn't a common problem but I have addressed it before and it always led me to the water inlet screens. Remember the valve has screens in it also. Note: Do not remove the screens from the valve! They must be present to prevent damage to the valve seats. If the seats are damaged, it can cause the valve to stay open and cause flood damage to your home.
There is water coming out/spraying from the valve area that is open without a solenoid above it also? Will the valve need to be replaced?
Answer Angel, If the water leak is from the valve body, and not a loose or torn hose, Yes you will need to replace the complete fill valve W10372095 assembly. It is only available as a complete unit. Thanks and Good Luck