The icemaker does not make ice. It is not getting water to the icemaker but water is coming into the valve but the valve does not seem to be getting current to open into the valve to release the water. Can you advise me what part I would need to fix this problem?
Answer Hello Linda. You will need to test and see if the icemaker is sending power to the water valve while in harvest mode. If so, the valve will need to be replaced. If the valve is not getting power, you will need to replace the icemaker D7824706Q. Hope this helps.
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How to test water valve?
Answer Hello Tiburcio. You will test for power to the water valve. If there is power there and no water, replace the valve. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
When I put the handle down to make ice Motor seems to be working but no ice is coming out. Could it be the inlet water valve thas preventing the water from going into machine to produce Ice?
Answer Hello Norma, You need to check and see if there is power going to the water valve when the icemaker cycles. If so, replace the water valve on the unit. If not, or the icemaker does not cycle, you will need to replace the icemaker on the unit. Also, check and make sure the fill tube on the unit is not frozen and clogged. If so, replace the water valve and thaw out the fill tube. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Could I get instructions on replacing the water valve for the ice maker?
Answer Hello Odette,
Turn the water off to the refrigerator and unplug the unit from the power supply, (wall outlet). Remove the water line from the old water valve and remove the cover from the bottom of the back of the unit if necessary. Remove the screw securing the water valve to the refrigerator body. Unplug the wiring from the valve noting the color of the wires and the color of the solenoid they were on. You may want to take a picture of it with your cell phone for reference during reassembly.
Now there are two kinds of valve connectors for the water lines that connect to the unit. One is the old standard screw on type. The new ones are John Guess fittings. Of course the screw on type simply screw off. The new valve will have the new fittings. You will need to cut about 1/4 of an inch of the old line off as there will be a groove in it from its' last installation which will prevent it from sealing in the new valve. It needs to be cut off squarely as possible. Once this is done, slide the water line into the new valve and when it bottoms, give it a real hard push. It will drop in again. Now you pull on it to seal it.
If for any reason you should need to pull it back out, push it in hard and hold the ring around the line in. Now while holding the ring in, the line will slide right out. Of course the rest of the re-installation of the new valve is the reverse of the removal procedure.
I replaced my ice maker, I had ice hanging up on the arms that swing to kick out the cubes, and the coating on the ice maker was coming off. Now that is replaced, my cubes are only about half full. The back side is filling and the front is partially empty. I wondered if the water valve is not opening or not staying open long enough? What are your thoughts?
Answer Hello Keith,
The reason you have ice building up on the harvest rake is because without water in the front cube of the mold, the thermostat is cycling the ice maker before the water can freeze. This means that the harvest rake is dipping in cold water each time the ice maker cycles. An insufficient water fill is normally the fault of the water inlet valve 67003753.
where exactly is the water valve for the ice maker ? I know its behind the black access panel.
Answer Paul, You pretty much have the information you need. The ice maker water valve is located on the back of the refrigerator, and the majority of the assembly is behind the meatl compartment cover on the right side of the rear of the cabinet, the water supply connector is visible with out removing the cover. It's pretty much a straight across change out. Roll the unit away from the wall. Unplug the power cord and turn the water supply off, It's best to remove both covers, but you can get by with just the left side cover, You may want to remove the wires, and attch them to the new valve one at a time and then the do the water supply tube, and reverse the process and roll the fridge back in place.