With your great video I was able to replace the motor coupling on my Kenmore 80 series washer. When putting the clips back on the motor if I get the top one on the bottom one won't go on. If I put the bottom one on first the top one won't go on. If I could get that 2nd clip on it would be back together in 5 minutes or less. Hate to call a repair person just to get the clip back on.
Answer Hello Nancy,
The secret to this is lining the pins with the slots in the motor coupler. There was one case where a customer actually put the motor coupler on the wrong end of the motor, (end that is supposed to go toward the pump). I know this sounds like a stupid mistake but it happens to the best of us at times. If it is on the correct end, I always set the transmission coupler so a slot is at the top and a pin is at the top on the motor. Insert the top clip into the motor mounting plate and align the pins. When it slips in, pop the upper clip into position. Now the bottom one can be inserted and installed. As a note, the new motor coupler should be driven onto the shafts until the end of the shafts are flush with the end of the coupler.
Answer Hello Van. The Motor Control Unit has internal failure; repeating under or
over voltage, or over current conditions. If failure occurs during
high-speed spin the door unlocks after 3 minutes. Possible Causes/Procedure
1. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
2. Check wire harness connections between the drive motor and the
Motor Control Unit (MCU), and between the MCU and the Central
Control Unit (CCU). Check the motor and do a continuity test.
3. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
4. Check the MCU by looking for operations of the drive motor.
5. Check the drive motor for powered rotations.
6. Replace MCU board.
When my washer goes to rinse cycle, the wash water hasn't all drained out, there is 5 or 6 inches of water left. It then starts the rinse cycle agitation. Does the rinse cycle add and remove water, or is my machine not functioning correctly? I was going to let the clothes soak in the rinse water for a while, but the water wasnt quite covering the clothes.
Answer Rusty, Your washer isn't functioning correctly, on the "regular " cycle there should be no water left in the tub, between cycles. You'll need to check the lid switch 8318084 and lid, to make sure the switch is activated throughout the complete wash cycle. If the switch isn't "closed" the washer won't drain or spin. Then you'll need to check the drain pump 3363394 and hoses to make sure there are no kinks or clogs in the hoses and pump.
Replaced motor coupler, machine did not agitate or spin before and now it does, but there is a smell like burning rubber. Could I have pinched the motor coupler by not setting it at twelve o'clock before installing the drive motor?
Answer Hello Marc,
The most likely cause of the odor is that the coupler ends were not driven up so the motor/transmission shafts were flush with the ends of the coupler. This will cause pressure between the plastic part of the coupler and the rubber part of the coupler which can cause the odor. There could also be an issue with the tubs ability to spin without opposition such as an article of clothing between the tubs, a dragging brake, or a damaged clutch.
After replacing motor coupler, I have a small black belt laying on the floor,where does it go?
Answer Terry, the foam strip you found on the floor is probably 4 or 5 inches round and can be mistaken for a belt. It is actually a sound deadening device installed on the outside of the clutch bell when the washer is being put together on the production line. It is not necessary, and you really don't have to install it back on the clutch bell. You can discard it if you wish.
First the washers top agitator started banging the top of the lid, than the top agitator stopped agitating. The seal from the barrier cap came off and is now stuck in the bottom, around the gap of top of the bottom agitator.
You will want to pull the agitator out and separate the upper and lower agitator to get the seal out from in between the 2 pieces. The seal part number is W10072840. For the agitator moving up and down it sounds like the bolt that holds the agitator in place may have backed out and allowed the agitator to move up and down on the drive shaft. You will want to get a little lock tite to make sure that the bolt does not back out and make sure that it is in tight. If the agitator is still not moving after replacing then it sounds like you may need new agitator dogs 80040.