How to replace broken drive belt.
1) Turn off water. Disconnect electrical supply and water hoses. 2) Remove agitator and cap from machine ( this is not always possible as the agitator gets frozen on the shaft, it just makes the job a little easier ) 3) Lay machine on it's front. Protect front of the unit from scratches. Do not leave it over night on it's front as some oil will leak out the breather hole on top of the transmission. 4) Remove rear service panel 5) Loosen both nuts holding the motor mounting bracket in the slotted base plate holes. 6) Rotate the motor to the right to relieve the belt tension and remove belt from motor pulley 7) After belt is removed from motor pulley, rotate motor to the left as far as possible to assure cam bar clearance. 8) The spin cam bar must be advanced to the spin position. Push up on the spin control solenoid plunger and rotate the main drive pulley until the cam bar advances to the spin position. 9) Remove the brake yoke spring from the gear case cover and yok. 10) Remove completely the 3 support braces attached to the gear case and base plate. 11) Remove the 2 pump mounting bolts. The pump hoses do not have to be disturbed. 12) Remove the gear case mounting stud which has the spacer. remove spacer. Loosen the remaining 2 gear case mounting studs approximately 7 turns. 13) Remove yoke retainer from yoke support. 14) The gear case can now be pulled down so that the belt can be slipped out between the top of of the clutch shaft and the clutch yoke. and then through the space beneath the short stud; drop the belt from around the gear case. 15) Reverse the procedure in steps 15 & 13 to install the new belt. 16) Replace the pump making certain the pump lever is engaged in the notch in the agitator cam bar before securing the pump to the gear case . 17) Grasp the bottom loop of the yoke spring with a pair of pliers and engage the spring with the hole in the upper gear case cover. 18) Replace spacer in short gear case mounting stud. Tighten the 3 gearcase mounting bolts ( finger tight only ). Next, set the machine upright and tighten the gear case mounting bolts securely. This procedure will allow the superstructure to properly align itself with the center post bearing. 19) Lay the machine on it's front to mount the 3 support braces to the gearcase baseplate. Tighten the bolts securely. 20) To adjust the belt tension properly, position the belt 95405 over the pulleys. Insert a hammer handle or some other lever between the motor mounting brackets. Rotate the motor to the left as far as it will go. Tighten the nuts holding the motor mounting bracket. Check the tension of the belt, it should deflect about 1/2 inch. 21) Set machine upright. Reinstall the agitator, agitator cap, service panel, water hoses and connect electrical supply. Hope this helps.
The basket on the machine has come forward and the water spills behind the whirlpool washer.
Answer Hello Ali. Based on the information you provided, you will need to order and replace the suspension spring on the unit.
What do I use to separate the the top and bottom of the agitator when there is not a bolt or nut holding the assembly together. There is only a square hole with a flat metal rod going down through the center of the agitator. In some models they say that they are using a 7/16 socket but on other models they say that they are using a 1/2 inch drive extension. What is a 1/2 inch drive extension? THANK YOU
Answer Hello Andrew,
There are several "drive" sizes for sockets. As examples there are 1/4 inch drive, (little bitty sockets), 3/8 inch drive sockets, (a bit larger sockets), and 1/2 inch drive sockets, (normally used on automotive applications). This is just a term describing the tool. The socket size used to remove the agitator is 7/16, but the size drive you use doesn't matter. You will need an extension for the socket to reach the bolt head down inside the agitator.
I have a Kitchen Aid washing machine just like the one in the video where you change the coupling. My tub tilts to one side all of a sudden. Is there a part that needs replacing?
Answer Chris, You'll need to look for a couple of things. Check and make sure the tub suspension springs 63907 and counter balance spring W10250667 and make sure none are broken or stretched . Then you'll need to check the base and skid plate pads 285219, 285744 Check the pads for excessive wear or loose damaged pads, and the base support legs, if they are bent or twisted from a recent move or something similar that could cause the tub to be off center as well.
Agitator was only moving itself about a quarter inch in each direction, column spun freely so I diagnosed the dogs are bad. When I spun the agitator base itself, it did not turn smoothly and felt like it had a "skip" in it, led me to believe there were issues below. Turned machine on it's back, the motor coupler is cracked in half on the transmission side. Other side looks fine, all 6 pins seem to be intact, and the rubber middle also looks fine. Three questions - should I be able to turn the agitator base on its own, and should that be smooth, tight, have a "skip" in it? Second, there are a decent amount of rubber shavings around the coupler housing area and on the floor below - it doesn't appear to be from coupler, but is it and I can't tell, or could it be from another rubber part? Lastly, there is a significant amount of oil on the underside of the transmission housing, mostly on the left side as you look from the front. Mostly on the foremost mounting bolt, a little under the coupler, in a straight line back through the middle of the housing. There's less towards the back of the housing, most is in front. Is this a sign of a transmission issue? Can I diagnose or fix that? I don't want to bother replacing the dogs and motor coupler if I really have a larger issue. Thanks, sorry for the long note.
Answer Handy man,
If you can move the lower part of the agitator then you have a stripped agitator and would want to purchase the entire agitator. On the second question it is not uncommon for a motor coupling to have shavings when wearing out. On the oil on the transmission, the unit may have gotten off balance and cause the leaking of oil. This is oil from the weep hole in the transmission and will not hurt anything having some come out.