How many ohms of resistance should a Whirlpool dryer heating element have?
Answer Hello John,
The heating element should read between 8 to 15 ohms of resistance for the 279838.
Replaced heating element and thermostat mounted on it. Still no heat. Heating element was bad for sure. What else could it be?
Answer Hello Chris. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the thermostats and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Hello, I change the heating element (was broken) and all fuses are OK. Still no heat. What can I do next? Thank you, Laura.
Answer Laura, make sure you have 240v going to the dryer and the breaker hasn't tripped. You'll need to check the thermostats. They should read closed for continuity. Thanks.
My dryer would only work in low heat/fluff cycle and now will not start at all. I already changed out the thermal fuse.
Answer Joe, if you've changed out the thermal fuse 3392519 on the blower housing and the dryer won't start or run, you'll need to check the timer circuits for a "closed" circuit between terminals B and C on the timer, which is power out to the motor, and the door switch terminals Com to NO, with the door closed. This is the neutral circuit to the motor and start switch, if either is "open" the dryer won't start or run. You did check to see that you have 220 - 240 VAC at the outlet and terminal block on the back of the dryer.
My dryer wont always turn off unless I unplug it. It has burned up 2 thermal fuses.
Answer Hello John,
If the unit has burned out 2 thermal fuses, the exhaust duct has an issue. The timer W10185976 will have nothing to do with this issue but it could have contacts sticking due to the high heat.
I keep hearing a buzzing sound coming from my dryer, but the dryer buzzer is in the off position. Any thoughts as to why or where this is coming from?
I have replaced the heating element in the past and I am about to order another one for replacement, but I'm not sure if that might be related.
You will want to check the buzzer switch in the off position to make sure that the switch does not have continuity in the off position. If it does then the switch is bad and would need to be replaced. You will also want to check to make sure that there is nothing caught in the blower wheel of the unit that would cause the noise. The other thing would be the timer buzzing.