My dryer was working ok but now it wont dry the clothes. Could it be the heating element?
Answer Hello Floyd! Yes, it could possibly be the element. You'll need to first make sure that a home breaker hasn't tripped and your dryer is still getting a full 240v. Make sure the dryer and home venting isn't kinked or clogged. If all is ok you'll need to test the element and thermostats for continuity, they should read closed. Hope this helps information you. Thanks.
I am trying find a new heating element.
Answer Hello Velmar. 279838 is the correct element for the model number provided.
How many ohms of resistance should a Whirlpool dryer heating element have?
Answer Hello John,
The heating element should read between 8 to 15 ohms of resistance for the 279838.
Replaced heating element and thermostat mounted on it. Still no heat. Heating element was bad for sure. What else could it be?
Answer Hello Chris. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the thermostats and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Hello, I change the heating element (was broken) and all fuses are OK. Still no heat. What can I do next? Thank you, Laura.
Answer Laura, make sure you have 240v going to the dryer and the breaker hasn't tripped. You'll need to check the thermostats. They should read closed for continuity. Thanks.
My dryer would only work in low heat/fluff cycle and now will not start at all. I already changed out the thermal fuse.
Answer Joe, if you've changed out the thermal fuse 3392519 on the blower housing and the dryer won't start or run, you'll need to check the timer circuits for a "closed" circuit between terminals B and C on the timer, which is power out to the motor, and the door switch terminals Com to NO, with the door closed. This is the neutral circuit to the motor and start switch, if either is "open" the dryer won't start or run. You did check to see that you have 220 - 240 VAC at the outlet and terminal block on the back of the dryer.