How do I find out if the "NO HEAT" problem is the fuse or a burned out heating element?
You will want to access the heater and thermal fuse and do a continuity test on the parts. If there is no continuity then the part is bad and would need to be replaced. If there is continuity then it is good.
If the switch goes bad would it cause the dryer not to put off heat? What could go wrong besides the element?
Answer Hello Meska,
There are several things in the heating circuit that can cause the problem. There will be a thermal cutout, a cycling thermostat, the high limit thermostat, the heating element, the centrifugal switch that is built into the motor, the harness/connections, and the timer/electronic control. For more specific information and part numbers, please include the model number from the units' I.D. tag. This will allow us to look up your specific units' wiring diagram and parts list. Thank you for your patience and understanding in this matter.
I replace my heating element and still have no heat I am getting 120 volts on each leg at the terminal that the element plugs
Not sure how you tested the heating element to make sure that there is 120 vac on each leg. If you did not check by disconnecting one wire then there will be 120 vac to ground on each leg. The best way to test is to make sure that one of the leads is disconnected and have the dryer running. You will check both the wire that is connected and the wire that is disconnected with it being disconnected. Which ever side is missing the 120 vac is the side that you will need to test back to either the motor or the timer. On the timer side you will need to check the thermal fuse and thermostats.
Where is the heating element for the gas dryer and how do I change it?
Answer Hello Larry. Gas dryers do not use elements. They have gas burners inside them. You remove the front panel to access the burners in most models.
My dryer doesn't get as hot as it use to. We took it apart & the heating element shows some wear but nobody seems to have this model. We only have two wires coming from the element. Is the part number 279838 to replace this? I have an Electric dryer.
Answer Hello Doris,
The model number you provided is a generic model number most likely listed on the sales sticker or use and care guide for the unit. I searched using LEQ8857HQ0 and got this information so you should verify the model number from your units' I.D. tag either on the door area or on the back of the control panel. I would suspect the electronic moisture control 8558178 as the suspect for your complaint.
Put in the new heat element that I got in from you all today cleaned out the lint from fan area and intake but still does not heat up at all. There were only 2 wires to connect both red no orange wire as shown in video. advice?
You will want to check the thermostats for continuity on the unit. If the thermostats have continuity then there are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad and if there is 120 vac then the heater would be the issue.
The dryer does not heat and the timer does not work now. Do I get a heating element or a thermal fuse?
If the timer is not working in the timed or auto dry cycle then you will want to replace the timer as it sounds like the contacts in the timer may be bad and may have a bad timer motor. If this issue is only occurring in the Auto cycle then the cycling thermostat may be faulty.
I replaced the heating element thanks to your excellent video. The old unit did heat but would not dry as it once did. the old unit coils were
black, but didn't appear to be shorted. How many ohms should I read across the coil?
Answer Hello Robert. The heater should read closed for continuity If it does not dry like it use to, It sounds like the venting system is clogged or kinked. You will need to check the vent and clean it out. Be sure and clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. If the air flow is not good, the unit will retain moist air causing the clothes not to dry. Try running the unit with the vent unhooked from the back of the dryer and see if the dryer works properly.