Make sure the freezer is actually plugged in and that the outlet is functioning properly. If the outlet is working correctly, take it one step further and check the circuit breaker in your home.

If your light is flashing this indicates that the power to the freezer went off recently. Whether switched off by accident or you had a recent power outage to your home, unplug for 30 minutes and plug in again.

If your freezer powers on but you hear a clicking sound and can feel the compressor vibrate, this is a sign that you need a new starter relay. Another sign is if your unit powers on and off every few minutes.

The thermostat determines whether or not the compressor is running. When the thermostat senses the internal temperature is lower than the setting, it turns off. If the thermostat won’t cycle off, the thermostat may be bad - if it is, you will have to replace it.

You may also have the temperature set too high in the freezer. Try adjusting the thermostat to a lower temperature. If this turns the compressor off, you may have had it set too high. With the help of a freezer thermometer, you can find a more ideal setting that will keep your food cold, but not so cold that the compressor is always running. If raising the temperature setting doesn’t help, it may be a problem with the thermostat and you will need to replace it.

Gaskets help to seal your freezer unit, thus keeping the cool air in and blocking room temperature or warmer temperatures. If you find that your gasket is not sealing temperatures correctly, replace it for optimal results.

May need to be replaced.

If you set the thermostat to a colder setting and it fails to freeze, check the accuracy of the defrost timer. Test this by manually advancing to the defrost cycle. You can usually manually advance this timer with a screwdriver. Insert the screwdriver into the advancement pinion and turn clockwise 1/4 to 3/8 of a turn. The timer should advance out of the defrost cycle in less than an hour.

To test if the cold control is bad, you can temporarily jump the two wires at the cold control. If this jumping gets power to the compressor, the cold control needs to be replaced.

Check to see whether you can hear the compressor motor making a steady noise. If it’s humming or making a steady noise, and your freezer is still not cooling properly, there could be a problem with one or more various components. If it is running but your freezer is still not cooling at all, there may be a problem with the condenser or evaporator coils.

Sometimes the evaporator coils get frozen over and air can't pass over them. This can result in your freezer not freezing properly. You can manually defrost your freezer by turning it off for 24-48 hours and then turning it back on to see if it begins to work properly. These coils can get dirty, and when they do they will not transfer heat or cold very well.

You may even have damaged door gaskets. When you open the freezer door, you also let in a blast of warm, often humid air. This moisture usually freezes onto the evaporator coils immediately.

Self-defrost freezers are supposed to self-defrost themselves. Every 6-12 hours they turn off the compressor for a few minutes. A defrost heater then turns on to melt any frost build-up on these coils, which allows the frost and ice to melt. Then it drains off to the pan underneath. Unfortunately, though, when a component fails, too much frost can build up on the evaporator coils. With no air flow over the coils, cooling in the freezer compartment becomes almost non-existent.

The defrost thermostat is a temperature controlling device within the automatic defrost system of a freezer. When the defrost thermostat senses that the coils are too cold, it signals the heater to activate and melt any excess ice build-up. If it is not working it would not activate the heater, which could result in excessive frost build-up.

Test the accuracy of the defrost timer. Do this by manually advancing to the defrost cycle by inserting a screwdriver into the advancement pinion and turning clockwise 1/4 to 3/8 of a turn. The timer should advance out of the defrost cycle in less than an hour.

The compressor moves the coolant through the unit, and the fan moves the air. Both have spinning motors that need lubricant to remain in good working order. When these items begin to fail, if they don't shut down completely you will hear the high pitched noise of metal rubbing against metal.

Make sure that your unit is level or balanced. Alter as needed to ensure even weight distribution, especially if your unit has "adjustable feet" that you can alter with a wrench.

If the freezer coils are frosting up, the defrost timer could be malfunctioning. Numerous times throughout the day, the defrost timer should cycle the defrost heater on as a means to melt frost build-up on the evaporator coils in the freezer. If this timer does not cycle on, then it may be faulty and require replacement.

If the freezer evaporator coils are icing over, this could be an indication that your defrost heater assembly has failed. This could cause the frost to accrue on the evaporator coils, eventually blocking the airflow and resulting in the unit not cooling properly. The defrost heater assembly can be monitored for continuity using an ohm meter and will need to replaced if there is none present.

If the freezer evaporator coils are icing over, it could be due to a faulty defrost thermostat. A requirement for the defrost heater to activate to melt away frost on the evaporator coils is a functional defrost thermostat. The defrost thermostat senses the temperature of the evaporator coils and initiates the thawing process by activating the defrost heater. If the thermostat is faulty, it will not sense the lowering temperature of the coils and will not turn on the heater, resulting in an advanced frost build-up. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity by using an ohm meter; if there is no continuity, the damaged part will need to be replaced.

If the problem you are having is that the freezer coils are icing over, it could be the freezer gasket. The gasket itself can tear over time, preventing the door from shutting properly. Frost accumulates on the top shelf due to humid air that flows into the unit due to the malfunctioning gasket. When this humidity comes in contact with the cold evaporator coils, it condenses and freezes, which could cause icing on the evaporator coils.

If the indicator light in your freezer is not coming on, the complete indicator will have to be replaced. This is because the bulb inside the indicator is not sold as a separate part.

If you checked and replaced your freezer indicator light but it continues to malfunction by not powering on, check your user control and display board next.