How can we find or locate the thermal fuse on this electric maytag dryer?
Answer Hello Debbie. You need to disconnect the power and remove the top and control panel and front panel to access the heater housing and test the thermal fuse 35001193. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
The thermal fuse failed and I replaced it with a new one. It lasted about 6 loads and failed again. Because I had cleaned the vent and the inside of the dryer, I thought I had a bad fuse. I called and was sent a new one. 2 loads later it failed. Is it the element getting ready to burn thru and what should the resistence be thru it?
Answer Hello Mark,
The exhaust cannot exceed the equivalent of 25 feet. What this means is that each 90° elbow slows the air flow the same as 6 feet of straight ducting. So, you have to add 6 feet at every 90° turn plus the straight footage. The dryer drum is riding on felt seals. If a little too much back pressure is built up, the lint, heat, and moisture will simply blow past the drum seals back into the cabinet. This is actually where the air is taken into the unit and also where the thermostats are located. This causes the thermostats to open prematurely and this will extend the dry cycle. This is also where the thermal fuse is located. Once it opens, since it isn't a thermostat and is a fuse, it's open until it's replaced.
The exhaust should be a 4 inch diameter rigid, non-flexible aluminum duct that is as short and straight as possible. You see, the shorter and straighter the duct is, the faster and easier it is for the unit to rid itself of the heat, lint, and moisture and the clothes will dry faster, the unit will use less electricity, and the dryer will last you longer since it isn't running a long time putting wear on the mechanical and electrical parts. All manufacturers strongly recommend against the flexible ducting whether it is plastic or the foil type. The flexible ducting crimps off the air flow too much when the unit is pushed back into place. It also holds lint which, when ignited, goes off like flash paper and will cherry inside the duct. The flexible duct will just melt through, (yes, even the foil type will just melt), and then you have the lint "cherryed up" in the floor.
I've been a technician for a very long time and I have never seen a thermal fuse blow that the exhaust duct wasn't in some way responsible. The duct still has to be too long, too crooked, crimped, or maybe the flapper door outside is stuck. There could be a screen outside that is stopped up. Whatever the reason, heat is being held inside the cabinet of the dryer. This heat is the culprit, so you must help the dryer to be able to get rid of it.