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Board, Adapt Defrost

Part Number: AP4014734
MFG Part Number: 12566102
Made by: Whirlpool
Our Price
$217.09
Regularly You Save
$256.17 $39.08

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10 Questions & Answers



Genuine Whirlpool part. Whirlpool brands include Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and others. See all items in Refrigerator Control Board and Refrigerator Defrost Timer, Adaptive Defrost Control.
Whirlpool also makes various appliance models for Sears / Kenmore.

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Cross Reference Information

Part Number 12566102 (AP4014734) replaces 12566101, 915151, AH2007851, EA2007851, PS2007851.

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Trips Ground fault even with compressor and condenser disconnected. does not trip with defrost timer bd(#12566102) disconnected, but compressor will not come on either. Should I replace timer Bd or are there other checks I should do first?

Mermack for Model Number Amana ARSE866MBW

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My freezer is working very well, the refrigerator however is too warm. The damper control door is working fine. The evaporator coils however are constantly freezing and not defrosting. The evaporator fan and everything else seem to be working fine. So I'm unsure if it's the thermostat, heater/defrost element, or the defrost timer.

Daniel for Model Number ARS9269BS

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My Amana side by side refrigerator seems to running almost constantly. The freezer and refrigerator get cold and if I adjust the temperature of the freezer or refrigerator up it gets colder. I have also noticed that if I adjust the freezer temperature down slightly after its been running a while it will shut off for maybe 10 minutes before it starts up again. I've replaced a bad thermostat that was preventing it from defrosting but it still seems to be running almost constantly. I have checked for leaks and can't find any obvious ones.

Jeff for Model Number Amana ARSE66MBB

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Latest Questions

My fridge is no longer cooling.. seems like the fan is running and so is compressor but not getting any cooling. I was wondering if it could be either related to the defroist cycle being stuck open... Andy

AKREBS2323 for Model Number arse667bs

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The freezer side was staying cold, but the cooler side was not cooling. I did some research online. I took the coil cover off and found the coil was completely full of ice and the cross-over holes were not getting any air flow. I read about doing the FORCED defrost by flicking the lights 5 times. I attempted to do this since my refrigerator uses a circuit board, rather than a timing motor. Every time I tried to get it into forced defrost mode, the fans and compressors would only stop for a split second, and then resume operations. Since I could not go without an operating unit while I troubleshoot, I decided to defrost the coil with a hair drier so that I could get to the warming coil. After all the ice was gone, I disconnected the heating coil and tested it and got 30ohms. Now I at least know that it isn't the heating cold that is bad. I have it narrowed down to either the thermostat, or the defrost circuit board. I think that the unit will not do a forced defrost because either the board is bad, or the thermostat is mis-reading and it is kicking the the circuit back out of defrost as fast as it is engaging. Can I either temporarily jump the circuits for the thermometer to see if I can get it into forced defrost mode, or can I disconnect them?

Randy for Model Number 596.53463300 kenmore side by side

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ok... freezer side cold, fridge side warm. terribly frosted over inside coils to the point where there is no air flow. this model uses circuit board timing instead of cam motor timing for defrost. I try to get the unit into manual forced defrost by flipping light switch 5 times. Fans stop for slip-second and then restart. Do you think that the problem is with the circuit board since it kicks into and right out of defrost mode?

Randy for Model Number kenmore 596.53243300 side by side

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