We've had several problems with the water/ice dispenser in the door that have been caused by the wires breaking near the left/lower hinge. I seem to have been able to address those issues by lengthening the wires (spliced in ~2" pieces, and soldered/shrink-wrapped connections). However, nothing has been able to address the ice maker. The re-wiring brought the ice and water dispensing back to life, but the ice maker itself is not working (will dispense if I put ice cubes in the hopper). I've been told that it is likely the main circuit board, but at > $180, this is no place for a guess. Can you give me any guidance?
Answer Hi Howard. If the ice maker is dispensing ice once filled in the hopper, then it is getting power to the head of it. Remove the front cap of the ice maker (white cover poops off). At the L and N insert your meter leads to see if the 120 vac is present like suspected. If so then you can pull the unit out and identify the water valve at the machine lower rt. side from the back. Look for the solenoid which the ice maker fill line connects to. Shut off power and unbolt the water valve assy. w/ hoses attached. Noe then you have access to the solenoid connections. Unhook the wires and ohm the solenoid. It should have substantial resistance noted and then each terminal leg should not be shorted to ground. If so then the water valve is part # 2199838. Test from each terminal to the metal body bracket. Then reinstall the wires on the water valve. Insert the meter leads in the back of the wire connectors for a positive connection on each lead. Place your meter in the 300vac scale and face it forward so you can see it from the front of the unit. Then use a solid piece of 14gauge wire approx 4" long. Strip both ends back approx 3/8" and place one end in the T and H terminals and see if the large facing ice maker gear (blk or red) pointer usually at 5:00 will turn to the 7"00 position and then remove the jumper wire. The ice maker should move now on its own. If it has no reaction then the ice maker part # 4317943 is bad. When the dial and outer pointer reaches approx 3-4:00 it will send the 120 vac to the water valve as you only now have approx. 6-seconds to verify the voltage on the face of the meter. If the ice maker is good then you should hear the water valve groan and try to send water. There you have it all. You can remove the jumper and if the ice maker pointer is at rest at 4:00, then you can re-test for the voltage if you missed it b/4. Thank You.
My side by side unit currently only is freezing in the lower side of the freezer. The fan doesn't come on. I vacuumed the dust from the underneath the fridge. The vent isn't blocked from the freezer to the fridge. I noticed that the fan doesn't come on at all. The coils in the freezer freezes properly. Should I be replacing the fan or the controller board for this unit or what other part may be the cause?
Answer Kevin, Your fridge has a "dc" evaporator fan motor, You'll need to test it with a meter, and go from there. ou'll need to turn the power off remove the shelves and the evaporator back wall to access the fan motor. Disconnect the wire harness from the fan motor and with a multimeter set at 10Kohms resistance scale check for 1400 to 1700 ohms across the #1 and the #4 pins on the motor connector. You can also check for VDC at the wiring harness to the fan motor fronm the control board. You should have 5 to 17 VDC across the yellow and white wires and 12 VDC across the red and white wires when the fan should be running.
Heres a Repair forum post on meter usage should you need it [http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html ] Thanks and Good Luck