My washer overflowed. We bailed all of the water out of it so it is empty now. Recent repairs include a new outer tub and suspension, stator and sensor, and hub. It had sit in storage for 2 years and I think it may have had a little water in the bottom that froze and ruined the bearing, but I can't be sure. I have removed the pressure hose and cleaned it out to make sure there were no obstructions, and I can't find any splits or pin holes in it. When you pull the plug or hit the power off button the water stops instantly so I think the valves are OK. What else, short of replacing the control board, should I try? I have already dumped $450 in parts into this thing, and all that is wasted if I don't dump another $250 in it! I could have just bought another machine, one that is NOT a Kenmore! Please assist.
Answer Hello Knute. If you can stop the water from entering the machine by turning off the timer or unplugging the unit, you will need to look for a bad pressure hose or replace the pressure switch. If the only way to shut off the water is at the shut off for the water hoses, you will need to replace the water valve in the unit.
We get F54 code. We replaced the outer tub with bearing in it, but still has same error code. My husband thinks its motor controller and the motor? What are the part numbers for these items?
Answer Hi Annie. Use a volt/ohm meter part # TJMA-DM1 to assist you in your diagnostics. It will be advantageous to find the supplied tech sheet inside the cabinet to aid you in the diagnosis. It allows you to put the unit in a diagnostic mode which brings up fault codes and tells you which circuit needs assistance. Your diagnostic sheet will take precedence over these statements. Motor Control Over current. F then 54 flashes when the machine/motor control detects high current for the motor module.• Does basket turn freely? If not, determine cause of friction.• If basket turns freely, see TEST #3.TEST #3 Motor Circuit. This test checks the wiring to the motor and rotor position sensor; and the motor and rotor position sensor themselves. NOTE: Drain water from tub. 1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and check the motor and electrical connections by performing the Agitate and Spin tests under Manual: Motor. The following steps assumes that this step failed. 2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.Unplug washer or disconnect power. • 3. Check to see if basket will turn freely. If basket turns freely, go to step 4. If basket does not turn freely, determine what is causing the mechanical friction or lock up. 4. Remove the console to access the machine/ motor control assembly. See Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies. 5. Visually check that the P5 and P10 connectors are inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. If visual checks pass, go to step 6. If visual checks fail, reconnect P5 and P10 and repeat step 1. 6. With an ohmmeter, check for 16 ohms resistance at the P5 connector between pins P5-1 and P5-2, and also between pins P5-1 and P5-3. Also measure the resistance at the P10 connector between pins P10-1 and P10-7 and verify that the resistance is within the range shown in the wiring diagram on page 7-1. If the resistance is correct, go to step 11. If the P5 connector resistance is much higher than 16 ohms, or the P10 connector resistance is out of range, go to step 7. 7. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom of the machine and the drive motor area. See Figure 1 on page 6-13. Remove the motor bolt, then the motor cover to access the motor connections. See Figure 2 on page 6-13. 8. Visually check the mounting bracket and electrical connections to the motor and rotor position sensor board. If visual check passes, go to step 9. If visual check fails, reconnect the electrical connections, reassemble stator and motor cover and repeat step 1.9. With an ohmmeter, check for continuity between all pins on the P10 machine/motor control connector and the motor rotor position sensor (RPS) connector. See Figures 2 and 4, pages 6-13 and 6-16. If there is continuity, go to step 11. If there is no continuity, replace the lower machine harness. 10. With an ohmmeter, check for continuity between all pins on the P5 machine/motor control connector and the drive motor connector. If there is continuity, replace the drive motor. If there is no continuity, replace the lower machine harness. 11. The drive motor and lower harness are good. Replace the motor RPS board and perform the Diagnostics test in step 1 to verify repair. 12. If the Diagnostics motor test in step 1 failed, then the machine/motor control has failed: Unplug the washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly. Perform the Motor Diagnostics in step 1 to verify repair. Thank You