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Control, Range (almond)

Part Number: AP2989287
MFG Part Number: 6610061
Made by: Whirlpool
Our Price
$220.33
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$259.99 $39.66

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8 Questions & Answers



Made by Whirlpool. Whirlpool brands include Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and others.
Whirlpool also makes various appliance models for Sears / Kenmore.

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Cross Reference Information

Part Number 6610061 (AP2989287) replaces 675647, 3195105, 3196221, 3196622, 3196764, 3196946, 3195105R, 3196764R, 3196946R, 6610061R.

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There were no instructions with order. What is the easiest way to install control?

Dave

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We received no instructions. What is the best way to replace control?

Dave

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Control AP2989287 has corrected my problem. Thank you for all your support. !

Stan for Model Number SF385PEEQ0

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Hi again. I found a tech sheet attached to my unit . I has all the failure/error displays codes with suggested corrective action procedure.My control display didn't match any codes which the tech sheet had. I pressed and hold the Start and off key for few seconds and then the display changed to E0 -F5-. THis code matched a code on the tech sheet. The likely failure codition "door and and latch switch do not agree" I followed the corrective action procedure "if door not latched' . A) disconnect power from unit B) check wires and connectors from control to latch switch,then from latch switch to control C) repeat steps A) and B) for door switch D) measure door switch(door open = switch open small low voltage terminals E) Measure latch switch(unlatch - switch open) F) If correctiins are made in any steps, reconnect power to control. Press and hold any key for 1 min to clear -F5- failure code from memory. -F2- will appear. press cancel and observe for 1 minute to verify problem has bee fixed. G) if failure remains, replace control. Since, I have already did all the checking previously, I went directly into step F. THe code changed to -F2- the pressing the cancel key DID NOT RESOLVE the issue. If the failure remains, then replace the control as stated in step G. I am now confident when the control comes in it will resolve my problem. When lookin at the current failure/error code of E0 -F2- , it states in the tech sheet likey failure condition is SHORTED KEY . PLease make a comments to the above. Thank you again.

Stan for Model Number SF385PEEQ0

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Forgot to give you the resistance readings for oven sensor AP3130719 which was around 1100 ohms. Also took readings for the oven igniter AP3104565 which was around 60 ohms. Going back to my earlier testing for the solenoid reading which I provided earlier. The two gray wires connect to a micro switch . I got no reading there when puting my meter there , but when I pull the extended rod towards the body it becomes an closed circuit. the reading as a posted earlier when disconnecting the brown and white wire from the solenoid was around 50 ohms. You mentioned " The solenoid should ohm out 300-800 ohms at the windings" Is that the point which I just measure when disconnecting the brown & white wires ? Should that be the reading ... Thanks waiting for your answers

Stan for Model Number SF385PEEQ0

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Hi. I Located P3-1 and P3-2 gray wires(part of a ribbon type connector having 7 wires total) and disconnected it from control. Next I put in two separate paper clips and measured in ohms the reading across the two points. The meter did not moved to the right at all (have an analog voltmeter). I then disconnected the two gray cables at the solenoid and shorted them out. Took the reading at control end (P3-1 and P3-2) and this time the meter moved over completely over to the right. I then took the meter and took the reading directly on the solenoid and it did not move at all. I also physically checked the actuator rod, between the solenoid lever and the latch assembly and that was good. So with the test I performed my problem seems to be the controller, which is already on order. I performed the above test with the oven having no power. I have question here. There are also two more wires connecting to the solenoid (brown and white wires). Does it matter which which wire gets connected to which terminal ? Currently I have the brown wire going towards the interior of the oven and white is on the outside. Please verify my test diagnosis. Thanks in advance.

Stan for Model Number SF385PEEQ0

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