The control panel was stuck on towels/cottons, unplugged & plugged back in several times, same problem. Held down casual if you released it would return to towels/cottons. Tried all the buttons, when released returned to towels/cotton. I then held down the casual button & started the machine then released the casual button. The machine stayed on casual & ran to the end of the cycle. It doubled beeped several times at the start of the cycle. After the cycle ended the buttons operated normally. Can you tell me where the GREMLIN is hiding? THANKS
In most cases when the unit will not go to a different selection and continues to stay on the same one it is caused by a stuck keypad. This issue would be the towels/cotton keypad being stuck and continuously making contact. When you pushed the other key and hit the start then it was able to register that. You will want to pull the control panel and check the ribbon harness to make sure that there is no corrosion and that there is a good connection. If all this checks ok then you will want to replace the keypad/user interface. The Pewter control panel is part number 3978826 and the pearl is part number 3978825.
no heat from whirlpool elelctric dryer. check continuity betwwen heater relay and and red wire to heater. read 10 ohms which is good per troubling shooting guide.also checked heater wire,,fuse, thermister high limit thermostat and thermal cut-off. all have continuity. checked resistance between p25 (red/white wire and p2-6 (black wire) at the electronic control. instructions say: if 6-7k are measured, replace electronic control. if resistance is less than 1 k ohm, replace thrmistor. my reading is 10.66k ohms. is tyhat reading ok. still no voltage to heater wire. looking at wiring diagram, it looks like the centrifugal switch, needs to opreate to complete power to heater. no mention in the testing guidelines. still no heat.
Answer Uncle Ben, Yes, the motor centrifugal switch has to close the circuit in order to supply L2 120 VAC to the heater element. L1 120 VAC is supplied to the other end of the element from the heater relay through the thermostat and thermal fuse. The thermistor resistance at room temperature should be 10 K ohms across P2-5 and P2-6 with the connector disconnected from the control board, sounds like the thermistor is OK at this point. You may find it easier to conduct voltage checks versus resistance checks(especially since everything checks OK and proper). Check for 240 VAC across the outside connections at the terminal block That will confirm proper power into the dryer. If you disconnect the Red wire from the heater element terminal then reapply power to the dryer and start the dryer if you test voltage between the empty terminal on the heater, and chassis ground, you should have a reading of 120 VAC. This will confirm that you have L1 power to the control board, the heater relay, thermal cut off and hi limit thermostat and wiring are functional and proper. Testing from the terminal on the end of the wire to chassis ground, should have a reading of 120 VAC to chassis ground. This will confirm L2 power(120 VAC) from the terminal block, through the motor centrifugal switch and wiring to the heater element. Once you determine which power leg is missing, you'll have a direction to go in. You can test each wire and component until you find the voltage and determine the failed part. You need to be extremely careful conducting "live" voltage tests, you don't want to short anything including yourself.