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Housing Assy., Auto

Part Number: AP4070404
MFG Part Number: 61005991
Made by: Whirlpool
Our Price
$91.63
Regularly You Save
$109.96 $18.33

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Questions & Answers

8 Questions & Answers



Genuine Whirlpool part. Whirlpool brands include Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and others. See all items in Refrigerator Damper & Related.
Whirlpool also makes various appliance models for Sears / Kenmore.

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Cross Reference Information

Part Number 61005991 (AP4070404) replaces 1005659, 61004967, 61004968, AH2061229, EA2061229, PS2061229.

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Maytag Refrig MZD2768GEW - Current problem began 2 weeks ago. The refrigerator side was not cold enough. I had the same problem 4 years ago and replacing the Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC) fixed it. This time, the repair tech thought it was the same problem so he replaced the ADC but the refrigerator side was still not cold enough. The tech tried a second new ADC (in case the first one was defective) but the refrigerator side was still too warm. Even though the refrig side was too warm, the compressor would stop running. There was no frost build up on the freezer side and there were no obstructions in the air flow but there was not enough cold air flowing into the refrig side. So four days ago the tech manually adjusted the damper through which the air flows from the freezer to the refrig - adjusting it so it would not close completely. After he made that adjustment, the compressor ran constantly for 11 hours and the refrig side became so cold that the food was freezing. After 11 hours, it finally shut off for about 20 minutes but then came back on and it continues to run even though the refrigerator side is much too cold. The freezer side is also becoming excessively cold... - 12 to -15 degrees. The only way I can get it to stop running is to lower the setting for both the refrig and the freezer. But after 20 min or so, it comes back on and continues to run until I lower the temp settings for both sides again. So when this started 2 weeks ago, the refrig side was too warm, now it is too cold. The tech seems to have given up. I have been trying to figure out what the problem actually is so I know what part needs to be replace. Can you tell me what I can do to identify the problem and figure out which part to replace? Thank you!

Desperate Maytag Owner for Model Number MZD2768GEW - Maytag Wide by Side

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I have a Maytag Side by Side fridge model# MSD2758DR, Sometimes the compressor doesn't turn back on, so items in the freezer and fridge start to thaw and spoil. But, if I knock on the temp control on top of the fridge the compressor will kick back on. Then everything functions normally again. Might last a day or 2 then I'll have to knock the temp control again to get the compressor going. Been doing this for months. Any suggestions?

Vu for Model Number Maytag MSD2758DR

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"Hello Joe. Yes, 2 days will freeze back over and Yes, the air comes from the freezer back into the refrigerator. The defrost issue is the problem with the unit. Hope this helps." - Where does the air come into the fridge? Auto damp hole only? - Can I test (ohm meter) the defrost control board? What else should I test? Thanks!

Joe for Model Number MSD2458GEB

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This is reapeat question but I don't know how to keep a dialog going without starting a whole new question. Sorry for the repetition...Side-by-side with freezer temp ok, fridge around 50. Unit is constantly running. Back wall of freezer had ice build up which I defrosted by unplugging. Technician recharged freon as it was supposedly low ($150) as temps on both side were high and ice maker stopped functioning. Freon recharge initially appeared to be the solution however after a day or so then fridge temps creeped back up to 50. Removed auto damp assembly (AP4070404) as per your recommendation to allow cold air into fridge side plus to test auto damp assy. Haven't tested auto damp assy yet but could my problem be the defrost control unit? I ask because I have seen that being an issue for units with the same symptoms (freezer OK but ice build up, fridge warm). Is the fridge cooled through the auto damper hole from the freezer or are there other ports to allow cold air in from the freezer? Also, how do I open the damper manually? Pull on it? I believe the spring connects the auto damp assy to the door which pulls on it thus allowing cold air to enter the fridge. Will the defrost coils block up in two days and prevent air from circulating into the fridge? Doesn't seem likely...

Joe for Model Number MSD2458GEB

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Yesterday I asked about why my freezer was at the proper temp (o deg) but the fridge was around 45-50. Your response was for me to remove the auto damper assy part# AP4070404 to allow cold air to enter the fridge from the freezer (interim fix) so I could further test the damper assy. I removed the damper assy but couldn't figure out how to allow cold air in. I did feel cold air come in when I opened the freezer side, but when I closed the freezer, the cold air flow stopped. Do you pull on a damper door or does it slide? I'm guessing that this is what the spring is connected to. To further diagnose what the issue with my unit may be, I forgot to comment that initially the freezer had come ice build up on the back wall. That went away when I unplugged the unit overnight. As a result of seeing other questions similiar to the symptoms that my frdge is experiencing, and based on your response/s, it looks like I may have an auto defrost problem and not an auto damper proplem. How does the auto defrost affect the temp on the fridge side? Thanks for your time, you guys are great.

Joe G. for Model Number MSD2458GEB

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There is a loud buzzing noise coming from this part. Would you suggest replacing the entire assembly or could it be a seperate part that would cause the buzzing noise?

Dave for Model Number msd2758gew

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