My ice maker stopped making ice,Ii tested terminals L to N and got 120 volts I then jumped terminals T to H (with door switch down) and nothing happened. Ii then replaced the module and the symptoms are exactly the same with the brand new module. What else can be the problem?
Answer Mark, are you sure you had the jumper wire properly inserted into the "T" and "H" openings ? The new module should have a resistance of 4000 ohms across the "L" and "M" openings on your meter, This will tell you if the motor is operable( it should be). Test "L" to "H" and there should be 72 ohms resistance if the mold heater is functional. Are you sure the bale arm shut off switch and arm linkage are in the proper position, so the ice maker is not in the "off" position. The mold thermostat should have an "open" circuit at room Temperature, and a "closed" circuit at 15 dgrs.F or lower. But when you jump "T" to "H" at the module, you "bypass" the thermostat and the module motor should run.
My ice maker overflows and spills water all over the floor. What do I need to replace? It still makes ice part of the time.
Answer Hello Jason. If the icemaker is over filling, you will need to replace the water valve on the unit. If it is leaking, but not over filling, you will need to replace the icemaker on the unit.