According to the diagnostic using the jumper to test the water supply pump and then the unit, my whirlpool motor module is bad. Although the unit is several years old, it has never been used. Is there a setup step that I may have missed when hooking the unit up to a water supply?
Answer If the valve is good, and the water is hooked up, then it should work. Did you jump from T&H on the module? On some models, you will need to hold the door switch closed while jumping T&H for the icemaker to go into harvest mode. If it doesn't move, then you have a bad module.
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My ice maker stopped making ice,Ii tested terminals L to N and got 120 volts I then jumped terminals T to H (with door switch down) and nothing happened. Ii then replaced the module and the symptoms are exactly the same with the brand new module. What else can be the problem?
Answer Mark, are you sure you had the jumper wire properly inserted into the "T" and "H" openings ? The new module should have a resistance of 4000 ohms across the "L" and "M" openings on your meter, This will tell you if the motor is operable( it should be). Test "L" to "H" and there should be 72 ohms resistance if the mold heater is functional. Are you sure the bale arm shut off switch and arm linkage are in the proper position, so the ice maker is not in the "off" position. The mold thermostat should have an "open" circuit at room Temperature, and a "closed" circuit at 15 dgrs.F or lower. But when you jump "T" to "H" at the module, you "bypass" the thermostat and the module motor should run.