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Lid Switch

Part Number: AP4023870
MFG Part Number: 206415
Made by: Whirlpool
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$31.88 $5.09

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Genuine Whirlpool part. Whirlpool brands include Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and others. See all items in Washer Dryer Combo Switch and Washer Switch.
Whirlpool also makes various appliance models for Sears / Kenmore.

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Cross Reference Information

Part Number 206415 (AP4023870) replaces 1573, 2-1823, 2-1946, 2-6415, 201823, 201946, AH2017304, EA2017304, PS2017304.

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Repair Video

How to Replace Lid Switch #206415

Step by step instructions on how to replace a Lid Switch #206415 for Washer, Washer Dryer Combo made by Maytag. Note: This video is intended to give you the general idea of the part replacement procedure. Your appliance may differ depending on the manufacturer and model.


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We have a Maytag SE1000 Series 1 (Serial Number 318775 RT) stacked washer and dryer, which has been working very well for 27 years. Unfortunately, it appears the switch operation for the sliding lid for the washer has malfunctioned. When the lid is pulled shut, the washer will very briefly start to operate (e.g., will start to fill with water or, if you push “spin,” will very briefly start to spin) but then will quickly switch to "L" and shut down (i.e., the water will stop or it will stop spinning). For awhile, we could jiggle the washer lid and the washer would operate, but then that “fix” stopped working. I removed the front of the washer and adjusted the screw to push the white lid switch button upward a bit more, and that worked one time, but after that the same problem occurred again and the washer would switch to “L” and shut down. I’ve checked the 3 wires where they attach to the lid switch, and they seem to be tight. You can hear the switch “click” when the lid is closed. I see that a replacement part for the lid switch is available (Part AP 4023870). Does this sound like a problem that could be fixed by replacing the lid switch? Given that fiddling with the lid switch assembly temporarily fixed the problem, I suspect that might be the case, but I don’t have equipment to test the current at the switch. Would it make sense to try replacing the lid switch? I see also that you have a “limit switch” (Part AP 4004517) which is part of the lid lock assembly. What does the limit switch do and could the symptoms be a problem with the “limit switch”? Or is there something else I should try? Thank you very much.

Richard for Model Number SE1000


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