After washer has run for a while cord gets hots and washer trip breaker
Answer Sailorred, You may want to start by checking the outlet wires and breaker in the box, Loose wire connections and or a weak breaker can cause such an issue. If you have access to a multi meter, you'll need to check voltage at the outlet for both static (no load) reading and a "load" (while the washer is running), You need to maintain a minimum voltage of 105 volts, under a load(especially when the motor starts in the spin cycle) We'd expect to see an amperage draw of 10 to 11 amps in agityate with a tub full of water, and a 10 to 11 amp draw until the tub reaches a high spin speed, after the drain cycle). You need to allow a 10% variable, and if the voltage remains in range (105 to 120 VAC) and the amp draw is reasonable(lower voltage causes higher amps) the most likely issue would be an electrical supply issue.
THERE IS A CAPACITOR LOOKING DEVICE NEXT TO THE MOTOR.DO I NEED TO REPLACE IT WITH THE NEW MOTOR.ALSO THERE IS A SMALL FIN ON THE BASE OF THE MOTOR WILL I GET A NEW ONE OF NOT PLEASE SUPPLY INFO FOR BOTH.THANK YOU.
Answer T.L., A model number would have been great. But, No you won't need to replace the "capacitor looking device", usually. If there was an issue with the capacitor, it would normally be peetty visible(they usually blow up, or leak oil, if theres an issue). If the "small fin" on the base of the motor is the motor coupler 285753A, like we think it is, no you won't recieve it with the motor, you may want to consider orderring a replacement coupler as well. Thanks
Where do you start to disassemble the panels to get to the motor, have replaced timer, it fills with water, at levels out and it does not begin to agitate. In the past it would fill up and start to wash even with the lid open. Help
Answer Joe, Here are the basic access information for your style washer, make sure you unplug the power cord first, " Servicing Components in the Console 1. Remove the two Phillips-head screws securing the front corners of the console to the washer top. the two screws could also be located on the back side of the end caps. 2. Tip the console back on the hinges that secure the top of the console to the washer back. ACCESSING COMPONENTS INSIDE THE WASHER CABINET Components inside the washer cabinet can be accessed by completely removing the outer cabinet as one unit. 1. Remove the console mounting screws and tilt the console into the service position. 2. Unplug the lid switch harness connector from the receptacle in the washer top. 3. Remove the cabinet mounting clips by placing the flat blade of a screwdriver in the clip and press down and towards the front to release the clip. 4. Remove the cabinet by tilting it forward and pulling it away from the washer. 5. The rear panel can be tilted back for additional access to components at rear of machine by twisting the rear panel support 90°. and then tilting the rear panel back." I think, that will get you into the cabinet, and you'll be able to check and diagnose the motor aand pump assembly, easily from there. But make sure you check the lid switch and wiring when you lift the control panel assembly. Thanks and Good Luck