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Safety Valve

Part Number: AP4102463
MFG Part Number: 7501P133-60
Made by: Whirlpool
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$146.29 $47.41

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Genuine Whirlpool part. Whirlpool brands include Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and others. See all items in Range / Cooktop / Oven Valve.
Whirlpool also makes various appliance models for Sears / Kenmore.

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Cross Reference Information

Part Number 7501P133-60 (AP4102463) replaces 1945-270, 1945270, 3030, 7501P016-60, 7501P017-60, 7501P108-60, 7502P016-80, AH2090055, EA2090055, PS2090055.

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Repair Video

How to Replace Safety Valve #7501P133-60

Step by step instructions on how to replace a Safety Valve #7501P133-60 for Range made by Maytag, Magic Chef, Norge, Admiral, Hardwick, Crosley. Note: This video is intended to give you the general idea of the part replacement procedure. Your appliance may differ depending on the manufacturer and model.


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Most Interesting

Oven after 20 minutes would not light. Found small gas leak in safety valve, so replaced it. Now oven will not light, getting no gas. What next?

Glenn for Model Number 31HN-92KX-EL


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I posted this last week and did not get a response. My range is a Caloric and is propane. Stove top works fine.The oven has been slow in coming on for several years. Recently it got longer and then would not come on at all. I removed the broiler drawer and tapped on the oven valve with a stick (with the ignitor glowing brightly) and the oven came on and cooked normally. Next time I was unable to get the oven to come on at all. So I assumed that the valve was sticking. I ordered part number AP4102463 I think I should have ordered AP4285640. The only difference appears to be the mounting bracket. Most of the writing on the valve is the same: flat igniter, G-LP and 3.03/3.3 V.A.C. 3.3/3.6 AMP 60 HZ. I installed the valve and the oven burner did not come at all and I waited for al long time. The ignitor was glowing brightly first red then a white/ red. I tapped on the valve and the burner lit near the igniter breifly and went off. At this point gas off and stove unpluged. I measured the resistance of both new and old valve to be 1 ohm, the igniter to be 270 ohms and the control to be 0 ohms. With gas still off I pluged in the range and took voltage readings. Oven control on and incoming was 124VAC, voltage drop across the control was 0, across the valve was 2.25 and across the igniter was a little over 121. Why does the gas valve not open? I have waited for a long time. How long should it take? Is the valve I received bad, is it my igniter bad or am I missing something. Thanks for your help

Don D. for Model Number RMS359-OF


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Range is propane. Oven had been slow to ignite for several years. Igniter glows but the gas valve appears not to open for a long time. Last week it would not come on so I removed the broiler drawer and taped on the valve with a yard stick. The burner came on and worked normally till cooking was done. This worked several times for cooking. So I ordered AP4102463 valve. I now think I should have ordered AP4285640. The valves look the same but the mounting bracket is different. I installed the valve and it did not come on so I tapped it with the yard stick and it starts to light burner and then go off. Was unable to get the burner to come on fully or to stay partially lit with tapping it. Igniter glows a very bright red. I measured the resistance of the igniter and it reads 270 ohms. I turned off the gas and measured the voltage drop across the valve with the igniter glowing and the voltage drop across the terminals is 2 volts and there is no voltage drop across the oven control. Incoming voltage was reading 128 volts AC. Igniter appearance seems normal. Any idea why the valve does not open or my burner does not come on.

Don D. for Model Number RMS359-OF


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