The freezer door seal (on 16 year old maytag) had a 6 inch split in it at the bottom of the door this caused an ice buildup under the door shelf so the door didn't close properly
Woodrow W. • Bartonville, TX • November 07, 2014
Appliance: Maytag Ref-Top Mount MTB2455ARW
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Removed the top door hinge from the refrigerator as per the video on the website. Peeled back the old seal to get to and remove the hex head screws that hold the inner door liner/shelves. (I probably could have just torn the seal out before removing the screws.) The door seal I'm replacing is secured between the plastic door liner and the metal door. Due to seal leakage and ice buildup, the 8 screws on the bottom of the door were severely rusted. Was able to remove 7 of them with a nut driver but not the 8th. Used an oscillating saw placed between the plastic door liner and the metal door to cut through the screw. Removed door liner. Tapped the cut-off screw with a nail and it popped into the door cavity. Hole is now open to accept a new screw. Cleaned ice and water-soaked fiberglass insulation strips from inside of door. Cut new insulation strips (~1 to 2 in. diameter X length of cavity) using extra fiberglass bat I had in attic and stuffed them down into outer cavity of plastic door liner. Styrofoam frame on door fits into this cavity. Attached new door seal around door liner. Placed this assembly onto the door making sure the holes in the door seal line up with the holes in the door and the liner. Replaced the screws. Be sure the seal stays tucked under the liner as the screws are tightened. Used stainless hex head screws (#8 x 1/2 in) and washers (#10) for the 8 screws on the bottom of the door. Mounted door back onto freezer compartment. Adjusted position of top hinge so door fits square in the opening (very important). It helps to observe if the top of the door is parallel to the top of the refrigerator or measure for consistent distance between the top of the door seal and the top of the refrigerator (when door is closed).