You wouldn't happen to have instructions on how to test this switch would you? Only instructions I can find are for old switches that arent for a dual burner and have completely different terminal names. Any help appreciated!
The red on P1 is your L2 supply, the black on P1 is L1 supply. the L1 supply goes from the P2 and jumps across each burner switch then down to the element. So for your supply power you would check for 240 vac from P1 to P2. If no power then check wiring. For the inner element to work you would check from 2 to 4 on the switch for 240 vac when the switch is on single element. If no power then switch is bad. For the inner and outer element you would check from 4a to 2 with switch in the dual setting. If no power then the switch is bad. If there is power at both locations then you would want to check wiring to the element and if ok then replace the wiring. S2 is for the indicator light.
I determine whether the reason my inner burner on my triple burner (front right) is due to the element itself or the infinite switch. Upon inspection of the burners I notice several cracks in the ceramic dish that the element is mounted in. Is this customary? The other burners have no cracks. How can I check to determine which is the faulty part. The outside 2 elements work fine it is just the innermost element that is not coming on. There are two or three cracks....one going across the entire element ceramic pan.
Answer Kirk, You'll probably find that the triple burner is the burner you use the most, and the insulation material does react to heat and usage, but doesn't usually cause any effect on the operation. You can test the element ribbons with a VOM meter, using the common terminal, (closest to the sensor box) and checking from that terminal to the remaining three(3) terminals on the side of the burner housing, you should read a "closed" circuit on all three tests, if all's OK the element(s) are good. You'll most likely find that you have a faulty triple burner rocker switch 7403P985-60 circuit or a damaged wire. You can also check the rocker switch circuit with a meter as well.
I have a maytag gemini double oven that the temperature will not stay consistant. It will also shut off during cooking process. Any idea what the problem could be?
Answer Hello Zack. If the temperature inside the oven is wrong, and the clock is shutting off, you will need to check for lose connections or a power issue. If all of this is good, then it sounds like the electronic clock W10166967 is bad and will need to be replaced.