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Swtch-Temp

Part Number: AP3779164
MFG Part Number: 8564140
Made by: Whirlpool
Our Price
$48.17
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$57.32 $9.15

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3 Questions & Answers



Genuine Whirlpool part. Whirlpool brands include Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and others. See all items in Washer Switch.
Whirlpool also makes various appliance models for Sears / Kenmore.

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Cross Reference Information

Part Number 8564140 (AP3779164) replaces 1066279, AH974070, EA974070, PS974070.

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I get hot water for hot water, but when the machine is switched to warm or cold the water first flows warm, then cold and after that the cycle fluctuates in flashes of hot/warm. As if there is a problem with the hot water line. My warm water setting is actually cold. I put new water hoses, replaced the water inlet valve, but I still have the same problem. What else might be causing the water flow to fluctuate so abruptly.

Lori T for Model Number LSQ9010PW2

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How do you test the temperature switch part # 8564140? Just the switch by itself to make sure it is good or bad, and can a bad temperature switch cause your washer to not fill with water at all?

Jordan for Model Number lsq9010pw2

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I just asked this same question, but forgot to mention one other thing so I'm asking the question again. My washer is not filling. The inlet hoses are fine and water pressure is good I tested both. Basically every indication was at first that the water solenoid was bad because I was receiving 120 volts all the way to the solenoid when I tested it (I tested it with the solenoid detached). I ordered a new solenoid put it on and that didn't fix the problem. Thats when I noticed that when the solenoid is connected I do not get 120 volts coming out of the temperature switch to the water solenoid. I get 120 volts coming into temp switch from timer switch, and 120 volts coming out of pink wire which goes to one of the two temp sensors on solenoid, but I don't get 120 volts coming out of temp switch wire that goes to hot valve on solenoid, don't get 120 Volts out of wire going to cold valve on solenoid , and don't get 120 out of orange and white stripe wire going to the other temp sensor on solenoid. (when the solenoid is connected). What really confuses me is I tested the switch for continuity and voltage to test the switch like I found online and they test good, but the test only has me testing the pink wire for voltage. Question is should I have 120 volts coming out of the other 3 wires that I indicated. What is really throwing me off is, I get 120 volts out of those wires I indicated previously when the solenoid is disconnected, but when I connect the solenoid the voltage coming out of those 3 wires previously indicated drops to 0. I just don't know if the temp switch is causing this, or if the new solenoid I bought is also bad or if it is something completely different. Thanks for any help. The other thing I wanted to state is that I also tested the solenoid for continuity between 500-1500 ohms and the old one and new one tested good, but obviously there could also be something mechanical inside the water solenoid and I could have still gotten a bad new water solenoid, I'm just not sure though. Thanks Jordan

Jordan for Model Number lsq9010pw2

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