My Whirlpool dryer wasn't working so I went on the internet to find out what was wrong. I checked and cleaned the vent and then the checked all the sensors. I found out that the thermal cut-off was no good using a multi-meter. I ordered the replacement kit for my dryer and replaced both thermal and hi-limit sensors and the dryer worked fine for about 3 loads of laundry. I checked the sensors and the new thermal cut-off tripped again? Could it be a bad thermal cut-off?
Answer Hello Andrew,
The only thing that will open a thermal fuse is high temperatures. In light of this fact there are only a limited amount of things that can cause them to blow. Missing seals in the unit allowing the heat to be recirculated instead of ducted out, running the dryer in a small room with the door closed, (with no louvers in the door), an excessively long exhaust duct or too many turns in it, or a clogged or crimped (less than 4 inch diameter) exhaust duct can cause this issue. Even a 2 foot section of flexible ducting be hind the unit that crimps off when the dryer is slid back against the wall can cause the issue. While a bad thermal cut-off is possible, it is not a common issue.
Dryer run's but no heat. Checked thermal fuse and heating element, both ok. What else should I check?
Answer Hello Joseph! Make sure that the dryer has a full 240v going to it. The unit can run on 120v but it needs a full 240v for it to heat. Also make sure the venting to the unit and to the home is not kinked or clogged. If the voltage and venting is ok you'll need to check the thermostats 279769 and 694674, they should read closed. Hope this helps you. Thanks.