My dryer no longer heats. I have tested the thermal cutoff ( #6 on the parts diagram), the High limit thermostat(#15), the cycling thermostat (#24 on picture) and the heating element, and all test for continuity. The thermostat heater (#19) on the picture tests at 3.5K ohms which I believe is where it is supposed to be at.....
Do you have any suggestions as to what to check next, or am I missing something in the parts I've already checked?
Answer BS True,
There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad and if there is 120 vac then the heater would be the issue. If there is 120 vac at each point then the heater is faulty.
This dryer has 2 cycling thermostats, one inside the other. The outer one is made of black composite material. FSP #61894. What is its purpose and how does it work. I get a high resistance reading across the terminals, 73800 ohms. What is the temperature range?
This thermostat is for the purpose of the automatic cycle. It heats the thermostat to have it shut off sooner for like the cooler temp settings. If you are getting 73K ohms from this thermostat then it is faulty. The resistance should be between 3 and 4K ohms.