My freezer works fine but the refigerator compartment warms about every month and I have to dis-assemble and defrost. I have checked the heater element and it reads approximately 30 ohms. I have been told that the defrost thermostat may be bad and that it is the part that clips onto the evaporator coil. I cannot find the part on your drawings. Will part number AP4078076 work as a replacemnt or could the termistor be a problem. I would like to try these least costly things before replacing a circuit board.
Answer Doug, The defrost heater resistance is in range (Evaporator heater-Resistance- 28.1 ±5% ohms), so that's not the issue. The defrost thermostat and the "terminator" are the same part, just a different terminology. In your casr the defrost thermostat is part of the wiring harness W10292244 (Per Factory Def Thermostat Is Part Of Wiring Harness Prt#w10292244 And Is Not Available As Seperate Part.) Usually, the technical data sheet is located behind the lower kickplate, in a bag taped to the bottom of the refrigerator compartment above the condenser coil. If you haven't programmed into a defrost test mode, or run the diagnostic test cycle from the control board, you probably want to conduct the tests, before you replace anything. Thanks
Where is this thermostat? I can't find it in your drawings. The best this refrigerator can do is about -3 and it will not make ice very fast. It takes like 2 days to get one dump into the tray. We replaced the fan in the freezer compartment. The upper part is cold but freezing the water spout thing in the freezer. I have to use a hair dryer to get water going again. The temperature in the fresh food compartment is 39°. I have a spare themistor. Should I try and replace it in the bottom or replace the fan in the back? I hope you can help. I don't want to buy lots of parts if I don't have to. Thanks!
Answer Hello Frank,
There is no thermostat. This unit has an electronic control. The electronic control takes the place of the thermostat. If the freezer is running at -3°F, it is actually too cold. The ice maker is designed to operate at maximum efficiency between 0°F and 10°F. When it drops below 0°F, the ice maker has too much trouble harvesting to work up to maximum efficiency. Also, the water coming into the fill tube will freeze before it can run out completely. The two parts that are critical to the upper compartments temperature is the evaporator fan motor, (which you said you have replaced already), and the damper assembly, (which limits the amount of cold air can be circulated into the upper compartment). The other thing that causes the water to freeze in the fill tube is the water inlet valve. If it doesn't close properly, you wind up with a "weepage" into the freezer compartment which freezes in the fill tube.