My dryer will not start at all. I have checked all of the switches, thermal cutoffs, thermostats and wiring. I believe it might be the timer. I have checked between terminals T and W. According to the schematic this should be the contact that supplies power to the start circuit for the motor. It ohms out at around 2K ohms. Being a contact I would think that it would be much less. I ohmed the drive motor start circuit and it was 2.6 ohms. (in tolerance according to schematics). Is it a safe bet that the timer needs to be replaced? Can I jumper the tan wire from the "T" terminal to the white wire from the "W" terminal to see if the motor will run? I put a jumper on these wires and it ohms out at 3 ohms. I wasn't sure if that was enough to put power to or if 3 ohms would effectively be a short.
Answer Wesley, You checked the neutral leg of the motor circuit. The power leg at the timer is BK to BU, through the start switch and thermal fuse to terminal 4M on the motor . The timer contcts on both checks should be "closed" circuits(with your meter set on the lowest resistance setting). To jumper the tan and white wires will close the "N" circuit, you'll also have to jump the BK to Bu wires to get 120 volts down to the motor and press the start button, for the machine to start. You may want to start at the blue wire on the motor with the start switch jumped and power to the dryer, no 120 VAC to chassis ground, check blue wire and components, back up to timer until you find the voltage. If you have the voltage then check 5M termianl and wire for voltage, no voltage faulty motor winding, if voltage OK, will need to trace white wire back up to timer until voltage found. Thanks
I have replaced the heating element, thermal fuse,2 themostat-fix and dryer will still not heat. What else could be the problem? Would it be the timer switch?
Answer Hello usmc79. You will need to test and see where you are loosing voltage at. It is either the timer or the motor that could be causing the issue. Unplug the wires at the heater and trace to where you are loosing the voltage. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
I have two problems that came on suddenly. First the dryer blows only cold air, second, the dial does not move, when you turn it on it just keeps going and going and going (blowing cold air) never turns off, and the dial does not move. I checked my fuse box and no breaker was blown.
Answer Hello Cmetzler. After checking the wiring diagram, it's my opinion that as long as the terminal connections for the pigtail are tight and undamaged, and the receptacle is making proper continuity, the timer 3979618 is in need of replacement. If you require more assistance, please feel free to contact us anytime