My dryer is not working but the timer is clicking.
Answer Hello Rowaida. Check and see if the thermal fuse is bad or if the door switch is bad. Either will cause the issue you are having. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
I just purchased a Timer(AP2973903,or WPL 3397273), RECEIVED WPL 3397273B.( don't know if that "B" at the end means anything). On my old timer looking from the back, it has 3 Terminals on the right-hand-side. W, T, and GY. The T has three(3) prongs. The GY has two(2) prongs. There is a tan wire bridge between one of the prong of the Terminal T and GY. The new Timer, just received, does not have a terminal GY. And the terminal "T" now has four(4) prongs. I need to know the significance of the absence of the GY, and, how to handle the four(4) prongs of terminal "T". Thanks in advance. Victorbee
Answer Hello Victorbee,
Look at the wiring diagram supplied with the unit in the control panel. In the middle (lower half) of the diagram, you will see the area where it says " Timer Switch 0". There are 2- WB connections -a black heavy denoted line- leading to a GY double connection point. Essentially they have removed this GY terminal point because it was an external jumper from one to another terminal. They have upgraded the timer and now these 2-connection points are internally "bussed"-connected together. Giving the T terminal another post for all wires to connect to. The tan/wht wire and the tan wire (as the same with the other 2- tan wires) connect to the "T" terminal point.