My washer spins and sort of drains and ends at that cycle. I have to move the dial to Spin/drain to get it to where it's only damp, otherwise it's soaked. The repair man from Sears said there's nothing wrong w/ the pump and the whole board was replaced, and this problem is still occurring.
Answer Hello Heath,
This sounds more like the shift actuator W10006355. You should be able to locate the tech sheet in a plastic zip lock bag fastened to the inside of the front main panel. This will instruct you how to run a diagnostic model that will give you the fault codes. This will point you to the problem circuit.
Dryer not heating.Checking all components on back,all good.I then checked for voltage at timer across red and black and could not get 120 or 240. what next?
If the timer was in the on position and you are testing red to black you should have 240 vac. If not then test from black to white on the timer for 120 vac. If there is 120 vac present then test the thermostats for continuity. If they have continuity then they are good. Also test the thermal fuse for continuity. If this checks ok then test the heater for continuity and check at the heater by disconnecting 1 leg and testing the disconnected leg for 120 vac and the connected leg for 120 vac both to ground. If there is voltage to ground on both legs then the issue will be the heater. If there is not then trace back to the point of origin for the wire that does not have 120 vac and that would be the part to replace.
My dryer runs, but will not heat. I have checked continuity on all thermostats, and thermal fuse. All are good. I have replaced the hi-temp cutoff, and high limit thermostat. The heater element shows continuity and no breaks in the wires. I've also checked the motor terminal block and everything appears to be working properly (i.e. no binding, clean of dust). Every once in a while, the dryer will heat, so I'm pretty sure that the heating system still works, but I cannot determine what is causing this.
There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad and if there is 120 vac then the heater would be the issue. If there is 120 vac at each point then the heater is faulty.