Ice maker not making ice. It will go through the cycles. Arm works fine. water comes out of outlet of water inlet valve. There is no water in the tube to ice maker, nor will it travel up the tube. Has the inlet valve gone bad or am I looking in the wrong place?
Thank You Kindly,
Answer Hello Jeremy. You need to check and see if there is power going to the water valve when the icemaker cycles. If so, replace the water valve on the unit. If not, or the icemaker does not cycle, you will need to replace the icemaker on the unit. Also, check and make sure the fill tube on the unit is not frozen and clogged. If so, replace the water valve and thaw out the fill tube. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
How do I troubleshoot the solenoid for the icemaker to make sure that it needs to be replaced? I have replaced the icemaker and it did not fix the issue. Also what reading should I be getting when doing a continuity test?
Answer Mark, The water fill valve is usually an "open" or "closed" circuit, when you test across the solenoid terminals with the wires disconnected. A more positive test is voltage to the fill valve, from the ice maker. You'll need a 3 to 4 inch legth of insulated 14 guage wire, with both ends "stripped" Remove the ice maker control cover, attach the meter probes to the wires to the fill valve. Insert the ends of the "jumper wire into the "T" and "H" openings on the control module and hold them there until the large gear starts to rotate, then remove the jumper. When the rake arm reaches the 12 to 1 o'clock position, there should be 120 VAC across the wires to the fill valve for 7 to 10 seconds. If the voltage is present, you have a faulty fill valve, if not you'll need to check for a broken or damaged wire.