How to Replace the Thermistor in Your Dryer (and Why It’s Worth Checking First)

Your dryer runs for what feels like an eternity, but your clothes come out damp. Or maybe the opposite: everything is scorching hot, and your electric bill is climbing. Either way, the dryer clearly has no idea what temperature it’s actually running at. Before you start suspecting the heating element or the control board, there’s a small, inexpensive sensor that deserves your attention first: the thermistor.

We’ve replaced hundreds of these across brands- Whirlpool, Samsung, LG, Frigidaire, GE, Maytag- and it’s consistently one of the simplest and most satisfying dryer repairs you can do. Twenty minutes, a couple of basic tools, and you’re back in business.

What the Thermistor Does in Your Dryer

The thermistor is a temperature-sensing resistor, usually a small oval or cylindrical component mounted inside the blower housing or near the lint filter duct. Its job is to monitor the air temperature inside the drum and report that reading back to the control board.

Based on the thermistor’s signal, the control board decides when to cycle the heating element on and off. That cycling is what keeps your dryer at the selected temperature setting. Without accurate temperature data, the control board is essentially flying blind; it either overheats or underheats because it doesn’t know what’s actually going on inside the drum.

This is different from the thermal fuse or the high-limit thermostat. Those are safety devices that cut power if things get dangerously hot. The thermistor is the everyday temperature regulator, the part responsible for consistent, efficient drying on every cycle.

Signs Your Dryer Thermistor Has Failed

A bad thermistor doesn’t always announce itself with an error code, though on some newer models it will. Here’s what to watch for:

• Clothes take multiple cycles to dry

• The dryer runs extremely hot, sometimes singeing fabrics

• Cycle times are inconsistent, short one load, endless the next

• The dryer shuts off too early, leaving clothes damp

• An error code on the display (common codes include F28 on Whirlpool-made dryers, HE or tS on Samsung models)

• The auto-dry cycle doesn’t seem to sense moisture correctly, since the temperature data it relies on is wrong

If your dryer heats but just can’t seem to regulate that heat properly, the thermistor should be at the top of your suspect list.

Tools You’ll Need

This is a light-duty repair. Here’s what to gather before you start:

• Phillips-head screwdriver

• Quarter-inch nut driver (or a small socket)

• Multimeter

• Flashlight

• Your replacement thermistor

The specific thermistor part number varies by brand and model. When you’re ready to find the right part, grab your model number and head over to our repair help section to match the exact thermistor for your dryer.

Unplug the dryer before you do anything else. If it’s a gas dryer, safely disconnect the gas supply also.

How to Test the Thermistor

Before you order a new part, it’s worth confirming the thermistor is actually the problem. A quick resistance test with a multimeter tells you everything you need to know.

1. Unplug the dryer.

2. Locate the thermistor. On most dryers, it’s mounted inside the blower housing or near the lint filter duct area at the front or rear of the machine. It’s a small sensor with a two-wire connector, hard to miss once you’ve got the right panel off.

3. Disconnect the wire harness from the thermistor.

4. Set your multimeter to resistance (ohms).

5. Touch one probe to each terminal on the thermistor itself.

At room temperature, around 70 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit, a functioning thermistor should read approximately 10,000 ohms (10K ohms). This is a standard NTC (negative temperature coefficient) thermistor, which means its resistance drops as temperature rises.

If you get a reading that is wildly off, say 0 ohms, open line (infinity), or a number that’s jumping all over the place, the thermistor is bad. Replace it. If the reading looks good but you’re still having temperature issues, the problem may be elsewhere in the circuit, potentially the wiring harness or the control board itself.

Replacing the Thermistor Step by Step

Here’s where the specifics depend slightly on your dryer’s layout, but the general process is nearly identical across brands. On most models, plan for about 15 to 20 minutes.

1. Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet. Pull it away from the wall enough to work comfortably if needed.

2. Remove the lint screen and set it aside. On many dryers, the thermistor lives in the blower housing area accessible from the front, near the lint filter slot. On others, you’ll access it from the rear panel.

3. Remove the appropriate panel. For front-access models (common on Whirlpool, Maytag, and Kenmore), you’ll typically remove two screws at the top of the lint filter housing, then remove the screws securing the front lower panel or the main front panel. For rear-access models (common on Samsung and LG), remove the screws securing the back panel. A Phillips-head screwdriver and a quarter-inch nut driver handle everything.

4. Locate the thermistor. Look for a small sensor, usually white, black, or gray, with a two-pin wire connector. It’s often held in place by a single screw or a mounting clip. Once you see it, you’ll realize how small and simple this part is.

5. Disconnect the wire harness. Gently squeeze the locking tab on the connector and pull it straight off. Don’t yank on the wires themselves.

6. Remove the mounting screw or clip holding the thermistor in place. Keep that screw somewhere safe; a magnetic tray works great.

7. Install the new thermistor in the same position and orientation. Slide it into the mounting bracket, replace the screw, and reconnect the wire harness until it clicks.

8. Reassemble the panels in reverse order. Make sure all screws are snug but don’t overtighten; you’re threading into sheet metal on most dryers.

9. Plug the dryer back in.

The trickiest part of this whole job is usually just getting the panels off. If you’ve never taken your dryer apart before, take a photo with your phone before you remove each panel. It makes reassembly much easier.

Testing the Repair

Run a short timed cycle on medium heat with a few damp towels inside. After about 10 minutes, open the door and feel the air temperature; it should be warm, not scorching. Let the full cycle finish and check that the clothes come out dry and at a reasonable temperature.

On dryers with a digital display, any temperature-related error codes should clear themselves after a successful cycle or two. If the code persists, try unplugging the dryer for a minute to reset the control board, then run the cycle again.

If your dryer has an auto-dry setting, test that too. The auto-dry cycle relies heavily on accurate thermistor readings to determine when clothes are done, so it’s a great way to confirm everything is communicating properly.

For Samsung-specific thermistor issues, including where to find the part and what resistance values to expect, we’ve got a detailed walkthrough on how to test and replace the thermistor on a Samsung dryer that’s worth checking out.

Need More Help?

If you’ve replaced the thermistor and the dryer still isn’t regulating temperature correctly, or if you’re not sure which panel to remove on your specific model, head over to our appliance repair forum. Post your model number and symptoms, and our community of techs and experienced DIYers will point you in the right direction. You’ve got this.

Written by: AppliancePartsPros Team