How to Read Washer Error Codes (And What to Do When They Pop Up)
AppliancePartsPros Team / Thursday October 29, 2026
You’re halfway through a load of laundry when your washer suddenly stops, starts beeping, and flashes a confusing combination of letters and numbers. Is something broken, or is your machine just trying to tell you the load is unbalanced? Before you start guessing, here’s the good news: washer error codes are designed to help you find the problem, not make troubleshooting harder.
Whether it’s a clogged drain, faulty door lock, water supply issue, or failing sensor, an error code can point you in the right direction. The trick is knowing what it means for your specific washer, since codes vary between brands like Whirlpool, Samsung, LG, GE, and Maytag. Once you understand how to read them, you can skip the guesswork, focus on the right components, and often turn a frustrating laundry interruption into a simple DIY fix.
We’ve helped thousands of people decode these codes over the years, and the process is more straightforward than most people expect. The trick is knowing where to look and understanding that each brand speaks its own language.
Safety First
Before you do anything beyond reading the display, unplug the washer from the wall outlet. If you’re going to open any panels, access wiring, or test parts, the machine must be disconnected from power. Water and electricity don’t mix, and a washer combines both. You don’t need to unplug just to read a code off the display, but the moment you start testing or replacing parts, pull the plug.
Tools and Materials
For reading and looking up error codes, you don’t need much:
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Your washer’s model number (on a label inside the door, on the back, or along the top edge under the lid)
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Your owner’s manual or tech sheet
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A phone or camera to snap a photo of the code before it disappears
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A pen and paper, if you prefer to write it down
If you plan to act on the code and start a repair, you’ll also want:
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A multimeter (for testing parts like sensors, valves, and motors)
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A quarter-inch nut driver and Phillips screwdriver
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Towels for any residual water
Step-by-Step: How to Read and Decode Your Washer’s Error Code
1. Identify the Code on the Display
When an error occurs, most modern washers flash an alphanumeric code on the control panel display. It might look like “F5 E2,” “UE,” “IE,” “dE,” or “E11.” Some washers also blink LED lights in a pattern instead of displaying letters; this is common on models without a digital screen.
Take a photo of the code immediately. Some codes disappear after a power cycle, and you don’t want to rely on memory. If your washer uses blinking lights instead of a screen, count the number of blinks and note which lights are flashing. The sequence matters.
2. Find Your Model Number
This is the single most important step. Error codes are not universal; “F1” on a Whirlpool means something completely different than “F1” on a GE. Your model number narrows the code to the exact meaning for your machine.
Look for a white or silver label with a barcode. Common locations: inside the door frame on front-loaders, under the lid on top-loaders, or on the back panel. The model number usually starts with a few letters followed by numbers (like WFW5605MW or GTW465ASNWW). Write it down or snap a photo.
3. Look Up the Code for Your Brand
Here’s a quick breakdown of how error codes are structured by brand, because each manufacturer uses a different format:
Whirlpool / Maytag / Amana uses an “F” (fault) and “E” (error) combination, like F5 E2 or F7 E1. The F number tells you the system (door lock, water, motor), and the E number pinpoints the specific failure. For example, if you’re seeing an F3 E1 on a Whirlpool front-loader, that’s a water level system error with a specific troubleshooting path.
Samsung uses short codes like UE (unbalanced load), IE (water inlet error), dE (door error), and SE (motor sensor error). Samsung codes tend to be two letters and are relatively intuitive once you know the abbreviations.
LG, Similar to Samsung with two-letter codes: OE (drain error), UE (unbalanced), FE (overflow), PE (pressure sensor), and CL (child lock, not even an error, just a feature that’s turned on).
GE varies by model line. Older models use numeric codes, while newer ones may display letters. GE’s front-loaders often share a coding structure similar to Whirlpool since some models use comparable control boards.
Bosch, Uses “E” codes like E07, E08, E17, and E27. These map to specific part failures, and Bosch codes tend to be precise. If you’re seeing E07 or E08 on a Bosch washer, there’s a focused diagnostic process for those.
Electrolux / Frigidaire Uses “E” and number combinations like E11, E13, E21. The first digit often indicates the system category (water fill, drain, motor), and the second digit specifies the issue.
4. Reset the Code and See if It Returns
Once you’ve identified the code, try a hard reset before tearing anything apart. Unplug the washer for 60 seconds, a full minute, not 10 seconds, then plug it back in and run a cycle. We see intermittent codes disappear after a reset all the time, especially on newer electronic control boards that can glitch from power surges or voltage drops.
If the code comes back, it’s a real fault, and you need to address it.
5. Match the Code to a Part and Test It
After your lookup, you’ll know which system is reporting the fault. Now you need to verify that the actual part is bad before ordering anything. For example, a water inlet error could be a faulty inlet valve, but it could also be a kinked hose or a clogged screen in the valve fitting. A drain error might be a bad pump, or it might be a sock jammed in the drain hose.
Start with the simplest explanation first. Check hoses, filters, and connections before testing electrical parts with a multimeter.
When you’re ready to find the right part, grab your model number and head over to our repair help section to match it to your exact machine.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Assuming codes are universal across brands. An “E1” on an LG is not the same as an “E1” on an Electrolux. Always cross-reference with your specific brand and model number.
Ignoring intermittent codes. If a code pops up once and disappears after a reset, keep an eye on it. If it shows up two or three times over the next few weeks, something is starting to fail, and it’s easier to fix now than after it leaves you with a tub full of water.
Replacing parts based on the code alone. The code tells you which system has a problem. It doesn’t always tell you which part failed. A motor error code could be triggered by a bad wiring harness, not the motor itself. Test before you buy.
Skipping the model number lookup. We can’t stress this enough. We see people order the wrong part constantly because they looked up a generic code meaning instead of the one specific to their washer.
How to Verify You’ve Fixed It
Run a complete wash cycle, not a quick rinse, but a full normal cycle with a small load of towels. Watch for the error code to reappear, especially at the point in the cycle where it originally showed up (fill, wash, drain, or spin). If the cycle finishes without interruption and the code stays gone through two or three consecutive cycles, you’re in the clear.
If the same code returns or a new code appears, there may be a secondary issue or the wrong part was addressed. Go back to step five and retest.
Need More Help?
If you’ve got a code you can’t crack, or the fix isn’t obvious after looking it up, post your model number and the exact code in our repair forum. You’ll get specific guidance from people who’ve worked on your exact machine. Include a photo of the code on the display if you can; it speeds everything up.
If you need any replacement parts for your appliances, you can enter your model number at AppliancePartsPros.com to locate and order them quickly. Most orders arrive in just two business days, and we have tons of great information in our repair help section and YouTube videos to help you troubleshoot.
Stay connected with the latest DIY tips, tutorial videos, and repair guides by following us on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter. We love hearing about your repair stories and successes. If you need more help or want personalized guidance, feel free to contact us or call us at 877-477-7278. We’re ready to help you take on your next project with confidence!
Since 1999, AppliancePartsPros.com has helped millions of people repair their broken appliances by providing high-quality original parts at well below retail prices, free support and troubleshooting, and award-winning customer service from an expert, friendly customer support team!
- Disconnect power before you start — unplug it or switch off the breaker, and confirm it’s dead.
- Follow your local electrical code.
- Anything involving household wiring, outlets, or the breaker panel itself is licensed-electrician territory.
Written by: AppliancePartsPros Team
The AppliancePartsPros Team is the technicians and parts specialists at AppliancePartsPros. We’ve spent a combined 100+ years working on appliances, and much of what we’ve learned is in our repair videos and these articles. We write to help you figure out what’s actually wrong before you buy anything.






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