E1 and E2 Maytag Dryer Error Code: A Troubleshooting Guide

Sick of cryptic E1 and E2 Maytag dryer error codes leaving you high and dry? Bid farewell to those codes with our pro troubleshooting guide!  This guide will walk you through how to troubleshoot and resolve both of these codes and get your dryer back up and running in no time.

What Do E1 and E2 Error Codes Mean?

E1 and E2 are error codes that indicate a problem with your dryer’s thermistor sensor. The thermistor monitors the exhaust temperature and signals the electronic control board when to turn the heating elements on and off.

Specifically, E1 means the exhaust thermistor and circuit is open, while E2 signals a shorted thermistor. In either case, the dryer can’t properly read the exhaust temperature, leading to inefficient and improper drying.

When these error codes pop up, the dryer will usually turn off automatically after running for a short time. Without the appliance being able to monitor the temperature, the dryer can’t maintain safe operation.

Why Proper Thermistor Function is Important in a Dryer

The thermistor plays a crucial role in efficient and safe dryer operation. By constantly monitoring the exhaust temperature, it allows the dryer to maintain the ideal temperature to get clothes dried quickly while avoiding overheating.

As the thermistor senses the exhaust temperature dropping, it tells the control board to turn the heating elements back on. Conversely, when the exhaust gets too hot, it signals the board to cut power to the heaters.

Without this input, the control board can’t properly regulate the dryer’s temperature. Clothes may take forever to dry or the dryer may overheat – both lousy outcomes!

A faulty thermistor that causes E1 or E2 error codes needs to be addressed promptly to get your dryer running safely and efficiently again.

Step-by-Step Guide to Troubleshooting E1 and E2 Error Codes

Ready to get down to business troubleshooting and fixing this issue? Here is a step-by-step guide:

1. Unplug the Dryer and Check Wire Connections

Safety first! Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet or shut off the power at the house circuit breaker box. Once power is cut, open the back panel and check all the wire connections leading to and from the thermistor sensor.

Check that the connectors are firmly plugged in at both the thermistor and the control board. Give them a gentle wiggle to confirm they are seated properly. Also check that the wires show no damage, bare spots, or fraying.

Faulty wire connections are the most common cause of thermistor issues, so this is an important first step.

2. Check the Thermistor Resistance

Checking the resistance of the thermistor requires disconnecting it from the dryer’s wiring harness to take accurate readings.

Refer to your owner’s manual for the location of the thermistor and instructions for removing it. In most dryers, the thermistor is mounted to the blower housing or exhaust duct inside the cabinet. There will likely be two wires connected to it that need to be unplugged. However, this process can vary by model.

Be sure to unplug the dryer before disassembling and disconnecting any wiring. Once you locate and detach the thermistor wires, set your multimeter to the ohms setting, usually indicated by the Greek omega symbol.

Consult the manual for your specific dryer model to find the expected resistance values for the thermistor at various temperatures. There should be a chart that lists the temperature in degrees and the corresponding resistance in ohms, kiloohms, or megaohms.

For example, a typical range might show:

• 50°F – 19.9 kiloohms
• 80.6°F – 9.2 kiloohms
• 100.4°F – 5.7 kiloohms

With the wires disconnected from the thermistor, touch the multimeter probes to its two terminals. The meter will display the resistance reading. Compare this to the expected values for standard room temperature in the manual’s chart.

If the resistance reading is drastically different from the reference value, you likely have a faulty thermistor that needs to be replaced. For example, if room temperature should show around 10 kiloohms but you’re getting an open circuit or very low reading, the thermistor is bad.

You can double-check by heating up the thermistor gently with a hair dryer and watching the resistance drop, or cooling it down by placing the sensor in the refrigerator and seeing the resistance rise. But significant deviation from the expected room temperature reading confirms a defective thermistor that should be replaced.

3. Replace the Thermistor if Needed

Did your resistance readings confirm a faulty thermistor sensor? If so, it’s time to replace it. This is a relatively easy fix.

Order a replacement thermistor that is compatible with your dryer model. Turn off the power again, disconnect the bad sensor, swap in the new one, and reconnect all the wires. Be sure to double-check your work.

Once done, restore power, reset any error codes, and run a test cycle to confirm the new thermistor is operating properly before running real wet loads.

4. Check Resistance at the Control Board

If testing indicates the thermistor itself is functioning properly, the next area to check is the control board.

To do this, you’ll need to locate the control board and access the connector pins. Refer to your model’s service diagram to find the board’s location within the console or control panel.

The tech sheet should also provide a pinout labeling the various contacts on the board’s connector. You’ll want to locate pins P2-5 and P2-6. On many models, P2-5 is a red/white wire and P2-6 is a black wire, but confirm the colors for your specific machine.

With the dryer unplugged, use your multimeter probes to check the resistance between these two pins. Set the ohmmeter to the kiloohm range.

You should get a reading of approximately 6-7 kiloohms between these two contacts. This reading indicates the thermistor circuitry through the control board is intact.

However, if the resistance reading is very high, open, or very low, you likely have a bad control board. The circuit that processes the thermistor input is damaged.

To further isolate, check that pin P2-5 shows continuity to the thermistor’s wire that leads back to the sensor. Also verify pin P2-6 shows continuity to the other thermistor wire. This checks the connectivity of each pathway. If the board connector pins are fine but show way off resistance between them, the control board needs to be replaced. The thermistor circuit specifically has failed. Make sure to use the model number when buying the correct electronic control board as an incompatible electronic control board can negatively impact the machine.

5. Inspect the Wiring Harness

At this stage, the process of elimination indicates a problem with the exhaust thermistor wiring that runs between the thermistor sensor and the control board.

Thoroughly inspect the wire harness, looking for any points that may be damaged or disconnected. Check for broken wires, damaged insulation, loose wires or pin connections, etc. Additionally, make sure to check for loose power cord connections.

If any issues are found, the damaged section of the wire harness connections will need to be repaired or replaced. Once the wiring is restored, re-test the dryer to confirm normal operation.

Conclusion

E1 and E2 error codes usually stem from faulty thermistor sensors or related wiring issues. Following the troubleshooting steps above methodically will help you identify and fix the problem. Ignoring error code issues allows inefficient drying and potential overheating hazards to persist. But some strategic troubleshooting and repair will get your dryer back up and running at peak performance! For further troubleshooting advice, feel free to check out our YouTube or additional call us for real-time troubleshooting assistance from one of our pros.