Frigidaire range surface element won’t heat: A troubleshooting guide

That stove top got you simmering with frustration? A surface element that’s not heating can be a real boiling point! But don’t let it get your kettle steaming. This issue might stem from a burnt receptacle, a failing element or a faulty infinite switch.

Let’s work through a few simple troubleshooting tips so you can get back to your regular cooking routine.

If you need any replacement parts for your Frigidaire range, you can enter your model number at AppliancePartsPros.com to order them. Most orders arrive in just two business days, and we have thousands of free guides to show you how to install your new parts.

Disclaimer: The troubleshooting information provided in this article is based on general service manuals and may not apply to your specific appliance model. While we strive to offer helpful advice for DIY appliance repairs, variations in models and configurations can lead to differences in troubleshooting steps, error codes and part replacements. For the most accurate guidance, we strongly recommend consulting the technical sheet for your specific appliance model.

What you need

• 1/4-inch nut driver
• Multimeter

Disclaimer: The specific tools required may vary depending on the model of your appliance and the type of fasteners used on it. Always consult the user manual or refer to any specific instructions provided by the manufacturer for the recommended tools for your appliance model.

Safety precautions

When working on any appliance, remember to keep safety first. Here are some tips to keep in mind:

• Always power off and unplug your appliance or switch off the circuit breaker before you attempt any maintenance or replacement work. This keeps you safe by preventing any risk of electric shock.
• If the appliance has recently been used, give it plenty of time to cool down before working on it.
• Take your time while working to prevent accidents and personal injuries. Rushing is the enemy of precision.
• Work in a well-lit area so you can clearly see and access appliance parts.
• Keep your workspace free of clutter and other obstacles. Keep children and pets away from the work area.
• Never work on internal parts with wet hands. Make sure the work area is completely dry.
• Check the user manual to see if there are specific installation or safety instructions related to your appliance or replacement part.
• Be gentle when handling or removing parts. Excessive force might damage the appliance or cause personal injury.
• Wear insulated work gloves to protect your hands from sharp metal parts and debris.
• When working with wires, avoid touching any exposed wires or terminals. If you need to touch a wire, use a non-conductive tool or wear insulating gloves to prevent electrical shock.
• Don’t test live voltage with a multimeter if you’re unfamiliar with how to prevent short-circuiting.
• Consider wearing safety glasses and/or a dust mask when working with chemicals, dust or a large amount of debris to prevent irritation or injury.

Troubleshooting steps

Step 1 – Test voltage

First, you need to find out if the right amount of power is getting to the range.

LIVE POWER WARNING: Normally you’d unplug your appliance before you do any work on it, but you need the range’s power on at this point to check the voltage. Always be very careful when checking live voltage so you can protect yourself from electric shock, which has the potential to cause serious injuries. Please don’t ever test live voltage if you’re uncomfortable using a multimeter. 

1. Remove the cover over the terminal block by removing the 1/4-inch screws that hold the cover on.
2. Check to see if any wires are touching bare metal. If there are, temporarily disconnect the power to fix the wiring issue.
3. Set your multimeter to Volts AC.
4. Place one multimeter probe on the left terminal of the terminal block and the other probe on the center terminal. You should get a reading of 120 volts AC at this point.
5. Place the probe that was on the left side terminal onto the right side terminal while keeping the other probe on the center terminal. You should get 120 volts AC at this point.
6. Take the lead off the center terminal and place it on the left terminal. There should be 240 Volts AC here.

If you get the right voltage, then you can test the element.

Step 2 – Access the surface element

Let’s start with the easiest part to access: the surface element. You can just lift the element up and out from the top.

Step 3 – Test the surface element

To find out if the surface element is good, you’ll need to test it for resistance.

1. Turn off the range and unplug it.
2. Set your multimeter to the ohms setting.
3. Place a meter probe on one side of the surface element and place the other probe on the other side of the element.
4. Check the meter reading. The range of acceptable resistance depends on which element you’re testing. If you’re checking the larger element, the resistance should be somewhere between 20 and 35 ohms. If the resistance isn’t between 20 and 35 ohms or is showing an open line, this means the element is faulty and needs to be replaced.

If your element is good, you can move on to test the receptacle.

Step 4 – Test the receptacle

LIVE POWER WARNING: You need the range’s power on at this point to check the voltage. Always be very careful when checking live voltage so you can protect yourself from electric shock, which has the potential to cause serious injuries. Please don’t ever test live voltage if you’re uncomfortable using a multimeter. 

1. Lift up the main top of the range to access the receptacle.
2. Inspect the receptacle to make sure that it’s not damaged. Damage would be the most common reason that it would fail. If the receptacle isn’t damaged, then you’ll need to do a live voltage test.
3. With the main top up, slide the meter probes into each side of the receptacle.
4. Set the multimeter to Volts AC.
5. Turn on the infinite switch. You should get a reading of 240 VAC, which means the infinite switch is good and there’s most likely internal damage to the receptacle.

If you don’t get 240 VAC, then the infinite switch is most likely faulty. You’ll want to test this just to be sure.

Step 5 – Test the infinite switch

LIVE POWER WARNING: You need the range’s power on at this point to check the voltage. Always be very careful when checking live voltage so you can protect yourself from electric shock, which has the potential to cause serious injuries. Please don’t ever test live voltage if you’re uncomfortable using a multimeter. 

1. Remove the 6 – 1/4-inch screws that hold the top panel on the back of the range.
2. Find the infinite switch.
3. Use the multimeter probes to see if there is 240 VAC on the L1 and L2 of the switch. If there’s not 240 VAC here, then you need to look at the wiring between the infinite switch and the terminal block to see if it’s damaged.
4. If you do get 240 VAC, then turn the switch on and test from the H1 to the H2 terminals on the switch. If the switch has the right voltage from H1 to H2, then you’ll want to check the wiring between the switch and the receptacle for damage.

More information

Thank you for reading! We hope this guide helped you get the surface element on your Frigidaire range working again.

If you have any other appliance repair needs or projects, you can explore our other troubleshooting guides and videos.

If you need replacement parts or some extra help with ordering them, grab your model number and head over to AppliancePartsPros.com, where you can chat with a pro, read our DIY blog and more. We can also help you troubleshoot common stove, oven and range problems here.

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