How To Replace A Top Loading Washer Outer Tub (With Video!)

Is your trusty washing machine leaking every time you run it, leaving you stranded with soggy floors and a headache? A damaged outer tub could be the culprit, but there’s no need to call in an expensive repair technician just yet. Follow along with our easy step-by-step guide, and check out the accompanying how-to video below to learn how you can replace the outer tub yourself, saving both your floors and your wallet!

Need a replacement outer tub for your washing machine? Search below using your specific washer model number to identify the exact part needed:

In a washing machine, the drum holds your laundry while it’s washed, rinsed and spun, and it actually consists of two tubs. First, the inner tub, which is usually made of ceramic or metal, holds the clothes. The outer tub is a big, heavy duty plastic shell that holds the inner tub and seals it off, preventing leaks. Naturally, if that outer tub is damaged, you’re left with a pretty big mess. Thankfully, the outer tub isn’t that tough to replace. No need to call a repair tech — you can do it yourself with a bit of time and the right tools! In this article we’re going to walk you through replacing the outer tub on your washer’s drum.

Diagnosing A Damaged Washer Tub

Washers can leak for a variety of reasons, but when the outer tub is damaged, it’ll probably leak every time you use it. To be sure that it’s the outer tub giving you grief when your washer leaves you with a mess, you’ll need to disassemble the appliance and check the drum for signs of damage. A visual inspection should be enough. Look for cracks, punctures, or holes in the plastic. If you’ve spotted some, it’s time to replace that component.

The two most common culprits of outer tub damage are hard debris, like pennies and rocks, and rodents. Mice and other critters can chew through the outer tub’s plastic, leaving pretty significant holes that water will pour out of, while pennies, stones, and other hard debris left in the laundry can potentially crack or puncture the outer tub during wash and spin cycles.

Finding The Right Replacement Part

To track down a compatible part, you’ll need the full model number of your appliance. If you don’t have access to the manual, the model number will be on a label sticker somewhere on the appliance. Check behind the washer door, either along the wall of the front panel or on the door itself. You may also find the washer’s model number behind the kickplate at the bottom of the washer or behind the front access panel.

Armed with your model number, you can search for compatible washing machine replacement parts in the search box. We’ve got the genuine OEM part needed for every major brand, and they’ll be delivered to your door in just a few days. While you’re there, you can check out tips and advice from both our experts and other do-it-yourselfers.

How To Replace A Washing Machine Outer Tub

For this job, we replaced the outer tub on a Whirlpool top-loading washer. The steps for this job will likely line up with other similar washing machine models, regardless of brand, but be sure you are buying an appropriate compatible part, and consult your manual for more specific instructions if what is outlined here doesn’t match.

Tools for the job

Get these items together before you start:

• A compatible replacement tub
• A new center tub seal gasket if your new tub kit doesn’t come with one
• Flathead & Phillips screwdrivers
• ¼” socket or nut driver
• 7/16” socket, long extension, and ratchet
• Hammer
• Spanner or tub nut wrench
• Pliers or channel locks
• A few towels
• WD-40
• Work gloves

Before you begin

To prevent electrocution, you should disconnect your appliance from power either at the wall outlet or circuit breaker. Never work on an appliance that is still receiving power!

For this job, you’ll also want to make sure you’re working with a completely drained appliance. So shut off the hot and cold water supply valves, and if there is any water standing in the washer, be sure to drain it or bail it out. If you know the appliance isn’t completely dry, you may want to lay down some towels, as well, to catch any spills as you disassemble things.

Replacing a washer tub

1. Disconnect the control panel from the rest of the washer. Depending on what model of washer you have, there could be a few different ways to go about this. Consult your manual if you aren’t sure which type of control panel you’re working with.
   1. Most control panels are mounted to the top of their washer by a couple of screws. You’ll find these either at the bottom of the control panel on the front, or on the back of the washer.
   2. You may need to remove the trim covers on either side of the control panel to access these screws.
   3. Some models of washer require that you first release some locking tabs beneath the control panel to free it up. Carefully slide a putty knife between the washer and the control panel at the front to trigger these.
2. Flip the control panel back and out of the way. Once you have the control panel free, slide it forward about a half an inch to clear any tabs it was seated on, then flip it up and back.
3. Disconnect the lid switch. You’ll find this wire harness in the middle of where the control panel was seated.
4. Remove the retaining spring clips that hold the body to the frame. You can do this with a flathead screwdriver. Check out our tutorial video for a look at how it’s done!
5. Remove the body from the frame of the washer. You may want to check out how this is done in our tutorial video before attempting it, yourself.
   1. Lift the lid and grab the body of the washer by the front, inside lip.
   2. Put your foot against the body of the machine to stabilize it.
   3. Now tilt the body up to a 45° angle to clear it from any seating brackets, and then lift it off the machine and set it aside.
6. Disconnect and remove the vacuum brake and hose. At the back of the washer frame, just above the tub, you should find a plastic piece with a hose attached. You’ll need to remove both of these.
   1. Use your pliers to loosen the clamp holding the hose in place, and then pull the hose off the vacuum brake by hand.
   2. To remove the vacuum brake, you’ll need to flex it out and then lift it up to free it from tabs holding it in place.
7. Remove the cap from the agitator. You’re going to be removing the agitator, so start by removing the cap or fabric softener dispenser, whichever your agitator has.
   1. You may or may not be able to simply lift up on the fabric softener dispenser to remove it. Some are held in place by a lift ring, which you will need to pull up on first to release.
   2. If you have a cap, you may need to use a flathead screwdriver to pry it off.
8. Reach into the agitator and remove the dust cap. There may not be one on your washer. Double check your manual – if you should have one but don’t, we suggest replacing it as this part protects the agitator from damage.
9. Loosen the bolt holding the agitator in place. Use your 7/16” socket with an extension and ratchet to loosen it. You may need to steady the bottom of the agitator to keep it from turning while you do this.
10. Lift the agitator out of the tub. If your washer has them, you can also remove the retaining clip from the shaft the agitator was mounted on with a pair of pliers, and then also remove the plastic piece beneath.
11. Remove the spanner nut. Using your spanner wrench and a hammer, carefully tap the spanner nut loose, then remove it.
12. Remove the tub cover. Press down on it as you do this to free up the locking tabs holding it in place. Don’t just pull the tabs off because you risk damaging them.
13. Remove the inner tub basket. Just lift it out and set it aside.
14. Take the drive block off the shaft. Use a hammer to carefully tap it off.
15. Apply some WD-40 to a rag or paper towel and wipe down the shaft. This will make it easier to remove the old outer tub.
16. Disconnect the water pressure air hose from the outer tub. Water may spill out when you do this, so be sure to lay down a towel first.
17. Remove the drain hose from the bottom of the tub. Again, use pliers to loosen the clamp so that you can remove the hose by hand.
18. Remove the suspension springs. Use your pliers to carefully remove each one, starting with the counterbalance spring in the back of the tub.
19. Remove the spring mounting brackets. They are each held in place by one ¼” screw. For the back bracket, you’ll need to thread your ¼” nut driver through one of the holes in the back of the frame, then tilt the tub down to line the nut driver up with the screw.
20. Remove the outer tub. Grip firmly and work it up off the shaft. If you’re having a lot of difficulty, you can apply more WD-40.
21. Install the center seal gasket in your new tub. We strongly suggest purchasing a new center seal gasket if your new outer tub doesn’t come with one. In a pinch, though, you can remove the center seal gasket from your old outer tub to be used in the new one. We walk through those steps in our how-to video.
22. Make sure that your water shield is seated properly. This is a metal plate at the bottom of the washer frame. It may have fallen out of place while you were disassembling things. Take the time now to check that it is seated properly.
    1. If you need to remount it, start with the top tabs first before moving the bottom tabs into place.
23. Lower the new tub onto the shaft. The tub will need to align properly in several places – the bottom hose fitting will need to be seated in a hole in the water shielding, and the tabs that hold the spring brackets will need to be aligned with tabs on the frame.
    1. You will meet some resistance when trying to install the new tub. Work the tub on carefully and be mindful that the seal doesn’t break.

1. Reinstall each of the spring brackets. Make sure the tab on the bracket is seated before installing the screw.
2. Reinstall the counterbalance spring and then the three suspension springs to the tub. Use your pliers to do this.
3. Reattach the drain hose. Make sure the clamp is in place.
4. Reinstall the drive block onto the center shaft. Make sure that the notches on the block line up on the shaft so that it seats as far down as it will go.
5. Lower the inner tub back into the washer.
6. Put the drive block nut back on. Spin it down and then tighten it with the spanner wrench and hammer.
7. Cap the drive block with the plastic spacer and retaining clip.
8. Reinstall the tub cover. Make sure each of the tabs is locked in.
9. Reinstall the vacuum brake. Tip up to slide the top tabs into place, then push up to seat the bottom tabs.
10. Reattach the hose to the vacuum brake and move the clamp back into place.
11. Reinstall the pressure hose for the water level switch. Make sure you lock the retainer clip into place after sliding it over the fitting.
12. Reinstall the agitator assembly.
    1. Lower the agitator down into place.
    2. Guide the bolt down into place and tighten it down with your socket, ratchet and extender. Remember to hold the lower section so it doesn’t move while you reinstall the bolt.
    3. Put the dust cap back in place.
    4. Reinstall the fabric softener dispenser/cap.
13. Put the cabinet back on the machine the same way you removed it. Lift the lid and grab the lid of the machine. Brace with your foot at the base and carefully slide the washer body back into place. Make sure you get the lower lip underneath the frame and have properly seated the body on the frame’s four locking tabs.
14. Reconnect the lid switch wire harness and then reinstall the retaining spring clips. For the clips, seat the back tab first before pushing them back into place with your flathead screwdriver.
15. Flip the control panel back around and reinstall any mounting hardware you removed when you started.
16. Time for a test run! Plug your washer in, turn the water supply back on, and do a test run without any laundry. Listen for any unusual noises and check for leaks to make sure that everything was installed properly.

Wrapping Up

Fixing something yourself – something that would’ve been wildly expensive to replace or repair professionally – is a great feeling, right? Now that your washing machine is back in working order, why not check out the other ways AppliancePartsPros.com can help you?

If you need any replacement parts for your appliances, you can enter your model number at AppliancePartsPros.com to locate and order them quickly. Most orders arrive in just two business days, and we have tons of great information in our repair help section and YouTube videos to help you troubleshoot.

Stay connected with the latest DIY tips, tutorial videos, and repair guides by following us on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter. We love hearing about your repair stories and successes. If you need more help or want personalized guidance, feel free to contact or call us at 877-477-7278. We’re ready to help you take on your next project with confidence!

Since 1999, AppliancePartsPros.com has helped millions of people repair their broken appliances by providing high-quality original parts at well below retail prices, free support and troubleshooting, and award-winning customer service from an expert, friendly, US-based customer support team!