How to test the main control & condenser fan in a Frigidaire fridge that’s not cooling

If you’ve noticed that your ice cream is cold but isn’t quite frozen or your freezer section isn’t cool enough, you could have a faulty condenser fan motor or problems with the refrigerator’s main control board. You’ve also most likely noticed that your refrigerator section is much warmer than usual.

While either of these parts could cause the problem, there may be other issues like a defrost failure or a bad thermistor.

Let’s uncover how you can get to the root of the problem and get your fridge’s freezer chilled to the right temperature.

If you find out that you need any replacement parts for your Frigidaire refrigerator while you’re troubleshooting, you can enter your model number at AppliancePartsPros.com to order them. Most orders arrive in just two business days, and we have thousands of free guides to show you how to install your new parts.

Disclaimer: The troubleshooting information provided in this article is based on general service manuals and may not apply to your specific appliance model. While we strive to offer helpful advice for DIY appliance repairs, variations in models and configurations can lead to differences in troubleshooting steps, error codes and part replacements. For the most accurate guidance, we strongly recommend consulting the technical sheet for your specific appliance model.

READ MORE: How to replace the defrost heater in a Frigidaire refrigerator

What you’ll need

• 1/4-inch nut driver
• Phillips head screwdriver
• Multimeter

Disclaimer: The specific tools required may vary depending on the model of your appliance and the type of fasteners used on it. Always consult the user manual or refer to any specific instructions provided by the manufacturer for the recommended tools for your appliance model.

Safety tips

When working on any appliance, remember to keep safety first. Here are some tips to keep in mind:

• Always power off and unplug your appliance or switch off the circuit breaker before you attempt any maintenance or replacement work. This keeps you safe by preventing any risk of electric shock.
• Turn off the water supply at the outlet before beginning repairs. Keep towels ready to catch any residual water in the system when removing parts.
• Don’t test live voltage with a multimeter if you’re unfamiliar with how to prevent short-circuiting.
• If the appliance has recently been used, give it plenty of time to cool down before working on it.
• Take your time while working to prevent accidents and personal injuries. Rushing is the enemy of precision.
• Work in a well-lit area so you can clearly see and access appliance parts.
• Keep your workspace free of clutter and other obstacles. Keep children and pets away from the work area.
• Never work on internal parts with wet hands. Make sure the work area is completely dry.
• Check the user manual to see if there are specific installation or safety instructions related to your appliance or replacement part.
• Be gentle when handling or removing parts. Excessive force might damage the appliance or cause personal injury.
• Wear insulated work gloves to protect your hands from sharp metal parts and debris.
• When working with wires, avoid touching any exposed wires or terminals. If you need to touch a wire, use a non-conductive tool or wear insulating gloves to prevent electrical shock.
• Consider wearing safety glasses and/or a dust mask when working with chemicals, dust or a large amount of debris to prevent irritation or injury.

READ MORE: The inner workings of refrigerators explained

How to troubleshoot a warm freezer section

Step 1 – Access & inspect the control board

The main control board regulates and coordinates the various functions and parts of the refrigerator, including the condenser fan motor. If the board is faulty then it won’t send the correct amount of voltage to the motor.

1. Remove the three 1/4-inch screws under the control panel of the refrigerator. These screws are recessed into the panel.
2. Take out the filter.
3. At the back of the refrigerator, near the top, find a 1/4-inch screw on the right side behind where the filter was. Remove this screw.
4. Drop the cover down to access the control housing.
5. Remove the 1/4-inch screw under the cover at the back, where the filter would be.
6. Remove two recessed 1/4-inch screws on the left side corner.
7. Drop the control housing down so you can access the control board.
8. Push the two clips that hold the control board in place to remove it from the housing.
9. Carefully examine the main control board for any visible signs of damage, such as burnt or discolored components, loose connections, or signs of moisture. If you find ANY damage, immediately replace the board.
10. Check the wiring connections between the main control board and the condenser fan motor. Look for loose or damaged wires, disconnected plugs, or signs of corrosion.
11. Make sure that all wiring connectors on the board are connected securely.

Step 2 – Test the control board

LIVE VOLTAGE WARNING: For this test, the fridge needs to be plugged in and powered on. Please be very careful to protect yourself from electric shock, which has the potential to cause serious injuries. Don’t ever test live voltage if you’re uncomfortable using a multimeter.

1. Make sure the fridge is plugged in and turned on.
2. Set your multimeter to the VAC (Voltage AC) setting.
3. Find the J5 connector on the control board and the white wire connected to it. You also need to find the P1 Pin 11 on the control board and the light blue wire connected to it.
4. Take one lead from the multimeter and place it on the white wire of the J5 connector. Make sure the lead makes good contact with the wire.
5. Take the other lead from the multimeter and place it on the light blue wire of the P1 Pin 11.
6. Check the multimeter reading. If it shows a value of around 120 VAC, this indicates that there’s 120 volts of alternating current present at the control board between the white and light blue wires. It also suggests that the control board is functioning correctly and that the issue may lie with the condenser fan motor.

If you don’t get 120 VAC at the control board despite power being supplied, then there’s a problem with the control board, which will need to be replaced.

READ MORE: Fridge Filters: A Master Guide to All You Need to Know

Step 3 – Access & inspect the condenser fan motor

The condenser fan motor is located near the compressor at the bottom back of the fridge. It’s behind a cover so it can provide airflow and dissipate heat. The condenser fan motor pulls air through the condenser coils, which release heat that’s absorbed from the refrigerant.

If the motor fails or spins slowly, then the airflow gets disrupted. The trapped heat can prevent the refrigerant from cooling, which leads to a higher temperature in the freezer compartment.

You might also hear unusual noises coming from the back of the fridge or notice that the coils are unusually warm to the touch if the motor is bad.

1. To access the fan, slide the fridge out from against the wall.
2. Remove the four – 1/4-inch screws that hold the compressor cover in place.
3. Find the condenser fan motor to the right of the compressor.
4. With the fridge plugged in, listen to see if you can hear the motor running. If you can’t hear the motor, check that the fan blades aren’t obstructed by dust, debris, or other items.
5. With the fridge unplugged, try gently spinning the blades by hand to see if they move freely. If the fan seems seized or there’s visible damage to the motor itself, replace it.

If there are no obvious signs of damage but the motor isn’t spinning, you can test it with a multimeter.

Step 4 – Test the condenser fan motor

LIVE VOLTAGE WARNING: For this test, the fridge needs to be plugged in and powered on. Please be very careful to protect yourself from electric shock, which has the potential to cause serious injuries. Don’t ever test live voltage if you’re uncomfortable using a multimeter.

1. Make sure the fridge is plugged in and turned on.
2. Set your multimeter to the VAC (Volts AC) setting.
3. Find the blue and red wires that are connected to the condenser fan motor. Make a note of where these wires connect to the fan since these will be your testing points.
4. Take one lead from the multimeter and place it on the terminal of the blue wire of the condenser fan motor. Make sure the lead makes good contact with the terminal.
5. Take the other lead from the multimeter and place it on the terminal of the red wire of the condenser fan motor. Again, make sure the lead makes good contact with the terminal.
6. Check the multimeter reading. If it shows a value of around 120 VAC, this means that there’s 120 volts going to the motor from the board.

If you measure 120 VAC at the fan motor terminals but the fan isn’t running, this suggests there’s a problem with the fan, so the fan motor will need to be replaced.

If you don’t get 120 VAC at the fan motor terminals despite the control board sending power, it means there may be a fault or interruption that’s preventing the power from reaching the fan motor.

READ MORE: How To Keep Food Fresh When Your Refrigerator Fails

Additional information

Thank you for reading! We hope this guide helped you get your Frigidaire refrigerator working again.

If you have any other appliance repair needs or projects, don’t hesitate to explore our other troubleshooting guides and videos.

If you need replacement parts or some extra help with ordering them, grab your model number and head over to AppliancePartsPros.com, where you can chat with a pro, read our DIY blog and more. We can also help you troubleshoot common fridge problems here.

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