Refrigerator Running Too Long: Top 7 Reasons and Fixes (With Video!)

Is your refrigerator constantly running or working harder than it should? This common problem may be costing you extra on your energy bill, but don’t worry—you’re about to discover the seven critical components that might be to blame. Dive into our step-by-step guide and check out the how-to video below to start diagnosing and fixing the issue yourself.

There are seven main refrigerator part failures that can lead to this problem. Before starting to diagnose the problem, make sure to disconnect your fridge from the power supply and the water supply. Once your fridge is safe to work with, proceed with this simple guide to diagnose which of seven parts may be to blame.

Once you have identified the part needed for your fridge, search below using your specific refrigerator model number to identify the exact part needed:

1. Condenser Coils

The condenser coils are one component that can lead to a refrigerator that runs too long. Before testing any of the refrigerator parts, make sure that you have turned off the circuit breaker for the room where the appliance is or have unplugged it from the wall. It’s also important to turn off the water supply to the refrigerator, which you can find underneath the sink.

Condenser coils are tasked with cooling and condensing refrigerant within the refrigerator. If the coils are covered in dust, dirt, and other debris, it can start to cause problems. The dust on the coils can insulate them and make it harder for your refrigerator to stay at the temperature you prefer. The coils will have to run longer, which may lead to the issue you are having.

The condenser coils will be found behind the access panel on the back of the refrigerator. First, you need to remove the panel, and then you can clean the condenser coils and other components in the location. This can be done using a refrigerator coil brush or even a dry, clean cloth.

2. Defrost Timer

The defrost timer is the next thing to check. It controls the defrost cycle on the fridge and consists of gears, contacts, and a motor. It’s responsible for taking the refrigerator from cooling and defrost cycles while also ensuring that the evaporator doesn’t experience ice buildup. Each timer is set for a certain amount of hours of cooling, followed by a specific number of minutes for defrosting.

Most of the time, the defrost timer is going to be found in the control section of your refrigerator. Those with older fridges may find it located at the bottom of the appliance behind the kick panel. If the defrost timer isn’t working correctly, it can lead to a refrigerator that runs too long. The evaporator can experience ice buildup, so it’s harder for the fridge to circulate cold air.

A simple method for testing the defrost timer is marking the shaft of the timer, waiting a while, and coming back to see if it has moved from the initial position. If it has moved, there’s no problem with this part. If it hasn’t, the motor or gears have failed, and replacing the defrost timer will be required. 

A quicker test involves moving the shaft of the timer manually using a screwdriver. As soon as it reaches defrost mode, you should experience the heater coming on. You’ll need to plug the refrigerator in to see whether this occurs. Find the heater behind the back wall of the fridge and after a couple of minutes, see if you feel the heat. If you do not, the timer might need to be replaced or one of the other components may be creating an issue.

3. Temperature Sensor

The temperature sensor of your refrigerator is tasked with ensuring the control board knows the temperature inside your refrigerator. These sensors are white in color and shaped like plastic bulbs, which let the control know the current temperature so the compressor will run when it should. You can find these sensors in various areas of the fridge, such as behind the back wall, inside of an air duct, or behind an access panel.

When the temperature sensor isn’t working, it can make your refrigerator run too long. Testing the sensor will require you to unplug it so you can remove it from the unit. Leaving it in the fridge through the process is typically fine. Every sensor is going to have an ohm rating based on temperature, which can be determined by looking at the text sheet.

Turn your multimeter onto ohms and then take the probes and place them against the bare wires or wiring harness pins to see what the reading is. This number should be similar to what you saw on the sheet for the temperature. If there is no reading or the reading is far from what it should be, the temperature sensor will need to be replaced. 

4. Cold Control

The cold control is a component that sets the refrigerator temperature and is composed of a body with contacts inside, a sensor bulb for determining the temperature, and a shaft where you’ll find the knob. Most of the time, there will be two wire terminals inside, as well. To find the cold control, you should look for the control panel mounted behind the control knobs on your refrigerator.

If you have a refrigerator that is running too long, the cold control could be malfunctioning or bad. The sensor is responsible for creating pressure that will close and open contact to the cold control sensor bulb. As temperature changes in the refrigerator, liquid in the bulb will expand or contract. If your refrigerator is staying on too long and the compressor isn’t activating as expected, the contacts inside could be stuck.

Testing whether this is the case is quickly done. You can knock against the area of the control panel using a screwdriver end, which may sometimes break free the contacts. If this happens and your refrigerator stops running for longer than expected, this is an indication that the controls are sticking together. It also means you should replace the cold control.

If the results are unsatisfactory, there’s something else you can try. Unplug the fridge and then use a multimeter to see if the cold control carries electrical current. Set the meter to continuity and then press the probes of the meter together to make sure it is properly working.

When testing the cold control, you’ll need to open up the control area and remove the wires before turning the cold control to “off.” Next, touch the probes to each terminal and see if they have no continuity. After that, turn the cold control back on and repeat the test. This time there should be continuity. If this isn’t accurate, the cold control will need to be replaced. Leakage or damage to the sensor bulb also requires replacement of the part.

5. Defrost Thermostat

Inside the refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is a safety part that will turn off the defrost cycle if the refrigerator is getting warm. When the temperature is high, it turns off the power to the heater to prevent your items from getting too warm. These will often have a temperature rating associated with them, which tells you what temperature the defrost cycle will be turned off at.

Most of the time, the defrost thermostat is going to be behind the back wall on the evaporator. If the refrigerator is running longer than expected, this thermostat may no longer be working. When this happens, the evaporator can become covered in ice and cool air won’t circulate the way it should. You can test them by seeing whether the thermostat is colder than the preset temperature. 

Take your multimeter and set it to continuity before you touch the probe to a bare wire or a terminal. The probe needs to touch each and should show continuity when it’s cold. If you determine this isn’t the case, this means the defrost thermostat is likely no longer working and should be replaced. 

6. Condenser Fan Motor

The condenser fan motor is another component that can fail and lead to a refrigerator that runs too long. This part is used to cool the condenser coils and compressor during operation. The fan motors may come in various styles, but all of them work in the same way. There is a small motor that spins a shaft with a fan blade, which forces cool air to come out over the compressor and condenser coils. 

In most cases, the fan motors will be on the back of the refrigerator behind the access panel. This location means the fan motor is exposed to dust and heat at all times. If there is much dust accumulated, the fan motor may not run the way it is supposed to. If it’s too hot, too slow, or has failed, the condenser and compressor can overheat.

The first thing you can do is to clean the motor to see if that improves the problem. A cloth or a specific cleaning tool can be used to attempt this. However, if the motor has completely failed, there is no option other than replacing it. 

7. Door Gaskets

The final component to pay attention to is the door gasket, which is used to seal the doors of the refrigerator. Typically, one side is going to be flat and magnetic, while the other side has a rib so it can be mounted to the fridge door. When the refrigerator door is closed, the gaskets seal the door to prevent warm air from coming out and cold air from leaving.

Door gaskets are mounted to the outer edge of the door, and if they are very dirty or deformed, it can cause your refrigerator to run too long. Either of these situations results in the compressor running longer to keep the fridge at the proper temperature. 

Take a look at the door gaskets and give them a good clean if it’s required. Deformities of the gaskets often occur on the hinge side, but a hairdryer may be helpful to heat the gaskets up enough to reform them to work correctly. The magnet inside the gasket may also sometimes fail. If the deformity cannot be repaired or the magnet is not working, replacement of the part is required.

Where To Find Us 

If you need any replacement parts for your appliances, you can enter your model number at AppliancePartsPros.com to locate and order them quickly. Most orders arrive in just two business days, and we have tons of great information in our repair help section and YouTube videos to help you troubleshoot.

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