Washing Machine Making Loud Noise: Top 10 Reasons and Fixes for Top-Loading and Side-Loading Washers (With Video!)

Got a noisy washing machine that’s driving you up the wall? Discover the common culprits behind those disruptive sounds and learn how to tackle them with our step-by-step guide. Watch the how-to video just below and transform your washer from raucous to restful in no time!

When a washing machine is making loud noises, there are ten main parts that can be causing the issue. Before starting to investigate what might be wrong with the washer, it should first be unplugged or the associated circuit breaker should be turned off. In addition, make sure the hot and cold water supply are both turned off for safety reasons. Once your appliance is safe to work with, proceed with this easy guide to diagnose the problem and fix it yourself.

When you have identified the part needed for your washing machine, search below using your specific washer model number to identify the exact part needed:

1. Tub Bearings

When a washing machine is making loud noises, there are many components that can be causing the issue. Before starting to investigate what might be wrong with the washer, it should first be unplugged or the associated circuit breaker should be turned off. In addition, make sure the hot and cold water supply are both turned off for safety reasons.

The tub bearings in the washing machine are one component that can lead to lots of noise. This is the most common cause of noisiness and the first place to look for problems. Tub bearings are mounted on the outer tub and provide support for the drive shaft that goes through it. The bearings are what allow the shaft to rotate while the washing machine is going through its various cycles. 

Two different bearing styles may be found in a washing machine. The first is a sleeve style bearing that is only located in a top-loading washer. Roller style bearings are found in front-loading washers, as well as some that load from the top. For top-loading washers, the bearing is going to be found on the bottom of the outer tub. With a front-loading washing machine, the bearings will be mounted on the back of the outer tub.

Bearings that are old can fail or bearings can stop working if the tub seal begins to leak and water makes its way into the bearings. If the bearings have already started to fail, a squeaking noise will be emitted from the washing machine when it is in use. As the bearings get worse, the sound will become louder. Typically the most deafening noise will be noticed during the spin cycle.

For roller style bearings, determining whether it has failed involves turning the inner tub with your hands and listening for squealing noises. It will also be noticeable if the bearings aren’t turning as smoothly as they should be. With sleeve style bearings, the best way to determine whether it’s bad is by seeing if it makes noise. If the sound comes from the bottom center of the tub, this is likely the problem. If the bearings are no longer working, they will need to be replaced.

2. Suspension Parts

The suspension parts are the next culprit to check if your washing machine is making loud noises. All of the parts work together to ensure the washer is balanced while running. The type of suspension parts in your washing machine will be determined by the style of the washer that is owned. The most common parts are shock absorbers, springs, snubber rings or pads, straps, and suspension rods.

Those with older top-loading washing machines usually have snubber rings or pads that the assembly is on top of. Springs will also be present to hold the assembly on the bottom of the washer. Newer top-loading washers will often have suspension rods that support the tub and some have suspension straps located between the washer cabinet and the tub. 

A front-loading washer has two suspension springs on the top and shock absorbers on the bottom. When many of these parts fail, they can cause noises when using the washing machine. If the part has failed completely, it can place the washer out of balance and cause banging noises during cycles.

In most cases, a part making noise should be replaced. However, a squeaking spring caused by dryness can be lubricated to alleviate the issue. 

3. Spider Support Arm

With front-loading washers, the next component to inspect is the spider support arm. This component is tasked with holding the tub where it is supposed to be. This part typically has three arms that attach to the inner tub as well as a shaft that extends to the motor or drive pulley. When the motor or pulley starts to turn, the arm in the tub spins to agitate a load of laundry.

This component is found between the inner and outer tubs and there are a few different ways to check whether the spider support arm is going bad. The first sign is that the washing machine is going out of balance while in the spin cycle. Spinning the inner tub by hand may cause a rumbling or clicking noise. This might indicate that parts of the spider support arm are broken and the sounds are caused by them moving around inside.

Keep an eye on the gap between the inner and outer tubs while spinning it, which should stay the same distance apart at all times. If there is wobbling while turning it, one of the arms may be broken. The bottom door seal should also be checked so you can determine if there is damage to the outer tub. This can be a sign that the spider arm is broken and the tub is moving around. If the spider support arm is damaged, it will need to be replaced.

4. Coupler

The coupler is the next part to check and it connects the motor to the transmission in the washing machine on older top-loading direct drive models. The coupler is made of three pieces of plastic and rubber that work together so the motor spins the transmission. One side of the part is located on the transmission, while the other is mounted on the motor.

The rubber component of the coupler goes in between to absorb vibrations and shocks. If there is a problem with the coupler, the sound of a running motor may be present but the washer won’t agitate. A loud noise will also come from that area of the washer since the broken pieces of the coupler may grind together. If this is happening, the part will need to be replaced.

In most cases, the method for replacing the coupler involves opening up the control console by taking off the end caps and removing the screws at the base of the component. The next step is to unplug the wire harness, release the clips that hold the cabinet to the back panel, and move the cabinet out of the way. Release the drain pump, remove the drive motor, and then take out the old motor coupling.

5. Drive Belt

The next part to consider is the drive belt, which connects the drive pulley to the motor pulley. This is needed to make the inner tub spin and agitate while doing laundry. Two types of drive belts are in washing machines: V belts and multi-groove belts. No matter what style is in a washer, it can fail and begin to break apart, which will create noise coming from the machine.

For a front-loading washing machine, the drive belt is typically found at the back, while top-loading washers have belts on the bottom. Look at the belt itself and see if there is any damage. If there is, this part will need to be replaced. 

If the belt is still attached to the drum, it should be removed. Take a belt that matches the original one and align it to the drum pulley so the flat side faces out. Attach the belt to the drum pulley with a zip tie for the best results. The other end of the belt should be looped around the motor pulley. Manually spin the drum so the belt aligns on the pulleys and then put the washing machine back together.

6. Drive Pulley

Next, the drive pulley should be inspected to determine if it is causing the loud noise from the washer. It’s responsible for driving the washer and is located opposite of the motor pulley. The majority of drive pulleys are made of metal but some are made of plastic. The drive belt goes around the pulley and connects to the motor pulley. 

If the drive pulley is damaged or bent or the mounting hole is rounded out, it may wobble while it rotates and create noise. With a front-loading washer, the drive pulley is often located on the spider arm on the back. In a top-loading washing machine, it’s typically found on the bottom of the transmission. 

Find the pulley and visually inspect it for any damage. If this component has problems, it will need to be replaced. A wrench or socket wrench can remove the bolt that holds it in place before it is removed from the cylinder. Then it’s a matter of replacing the part with the new OEM component so your washer runs correctly and stops making an excessive sound.

7. Clutch

The next thing to look at for a top-loading washer is the clutch. This part is responsible for getting the washer tub up to top speed when in the spin cycle. There are many different styles of clutches, but they all do basically the same thing. A material like a brake pad is located inside, which grips and drives the washing machine. 

When the material inside wears out, the clutch can stop working correctly and may start making loud metal on metal noises. In most cases, the clutch on a washer is at the bottom of the machine. If loud noises are coming from that area, it’s likely that the clutch is experiencing issues. If the clutch isn’t working, it will need to be replaced.

Newer washing machines may have a display and electronic control board, which allows them to determine if there are strange voltage changes in electrical components and circuits. For a failed clutch, a sensor may detect irregular voltage and show an error code on the display. Looking at the washing machine’s user manual will explain what the code is and how to handle the issue.

If the clutch needs to be replaced on a washer, keep the power off, the water valves closed, and disconnect the hoses. The agitator and water pump need to be removed and the wire harness should be taken off of the motor. Next, removing the motor and clutch assembly and transmission will offer access to install a new clutch.

8. Drain Pump

The drain pump of a washing machine is used to remove water from the tub during both the spin and drain cycles. Depending on the type of washing machine, there may be a pump with a simple inlet and outlet or it may be more complex. These drain pumps will have a motor attached. Most of the time, a drain pump is found mounted on the bottom of the washing machine. However, sometimes it will be mounted directly on the motor.

If you believe the drain pump is creating noise, the first thing to check is whether anything is stuck inside of it. The debris can hit the impeller as it turns and make loud noises. If you take off the drain pump and find that nothing is inside of it, the bearings or impeller may be damaged. 

Turning the pump can sometimes give evidence that it is binding up, which indicates that the bearings are not working the way they should be. The impeller can be checked by looking at it and determining whether any of the blades have been damaged. 

If the drain pump contains a motor and the sounds are coming from it, the motor bearings have likely stopped working correctly. In any of the cases mentioned, the drain pump will need to be replaced to stop the noise and make the washing machine work properly.

9. Drive Motor

The drive motor is another component that can lead to excess washing machine noise. This component is responsible for taking electrical energy and converting it into mechanical energy, which will then drive the washer. Many kinds of motors can be used in washers, but all of them work in the same way. There is a housing on the outside that holds a rotor and a stator with a bearing at each end. The rotor spins inside of the stator to drive the washer.

There are also direct-drive motors in newer washing machines with a flat rotor and stator. If the washing machine motor is creating excess noise, usually this is a sign that the drive motor’s bearings are no longer working. Since individual motor parts often aren’t for sale, the entire drive motor will need to be replaced. 

There are several indications that the drive motor is no longer working correctly. The washer may not spin or pump, it may spin but not pump, it may not agitate, or it may go through the cycles but leave laundry wetter than expected. In some cases, the shift lever of the clutch may have failed, and it will need to be replaced, as well.

10. Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve of a washing machine controls the cold and hot water that enters the tub when doing laundry. This component has solenoids that will open and close to let water into the washer. If there is noise when the washer is on the filling cycle, this is often an indication that the valve has stopped working correctly. This problem can also cause the washing machine to fill exceptionally slowly or not fill at all. Sometimes it can even fill with water but the water will be the wrong temperature.

A damaged coil, a jammed plunger, or a clog in the valve may be the cause of this issue in a washing machine. Similar to the drive motor, water inlet valves typically aren’t sold as the individual components inside. If there is any problem with the water inlet valve, the only option is to replace it completely. In some cases, the screens may need to be cleaned, which can be done with a mixture of vinegar and water.

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