Valve replacement was the only option, this is a non-repairable item. I found a video that showed how to replace this valve - more of a generic video not specifically for my model, but close enough. The big difference was how the top of the washer released for access, two screws on the back hinge plate need to come out and the top pulls forward to allow it to tilt up. Unplug your washer and turn off the water valves, put a rag on the floor to catch water and remove the water hoses from the machine. Lifting the top open the valve discharge hoses are under the top. Four hoses with spring-type water hose clamps holding them on. Take a picture with your phone for later reference. Remove them, be ready for some water spillage. Top back down - then three screws on the backside holding the control panel to the top, roll that open and gently set it aside. Take a picture of your valve connections with your phone for later review, not likely you'll mix them up but better safe than sorry. Unplug the six valve connectors and the thermistor connector. Pull the power cord assembly from it's holder and move it aside. My valve had place for three screws holding the valve in place but only two were installed. Remove these then lift the valve from the washer. Reinstall in the reverse order, valve and two or three screws, power cord, six valve connectors, and thermister connector. Double-check with your phone picture for the color code on the connectors. Roll the control panel back on and tighten the screws. Top back up and connect the 4 hoses. Top back down and tighten it down if you have the 2 screws on the back like mine to allow the top to open. Hook up the water and power and drain hose and take it for a spin. It's as simple as it sounds. Be sure to check for leaks.