Why is my Samsung dryer cooling instead of heating?

If you’ve found that your Samsung dryer is blowing cool instead of warm air, it can be super frustrating. But don’t worry! Let’s dig in to find out how you can troubleshoot this issue without a technician.

If you need any replacement parts for your Samsung dryer, you can enter your model number at AppliancePartsPros.com to order them. Most orders arrive in just two business days, and we have thousands of free guides to show you how to install your new parts.

Important: The information provided in this article is based on electric models and may not apply to your specific appliance model. While we strive to offer helpful advice for DIY appliance repairs, variations in models and configurations can lead to differences in troubleshooting steps, error codes and part replacements. For the most accurate guidance, we strongly recommend consulting the technical sheet for your specific appliance model.

Potential reasons why a dryer won’t heat

• Improperly set controls: Make sure the dryer’s settings are correctly configured for the type of load you’re drying. Some settings like air dry (typically used for delicate fabrics) may not activate the heater.
• Power supply issues: Insufficient voltage to the dryer — often due to a tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse in the home’s electrical system — can prevent proper heating.
• Excessive lint buildup: Lint buildup in the dryer or venting system can restrict airflow and cause overheating, which may cause other problems like a blown thermal fuse.
• Blown thermal fuse: This is a safety feature that will cut power to the gas heating circuit (gas models) or motor circuit (electric models)and prevent it from heating.
• Faulty thermostat: A malfunctioning thermostat can prevent the dryer from reaching the desired temperature.
• Heating element failure (electric models): If the heating element is damaged or burned out, it won’t produce heat.
• Faulty igniter (gas models): If the igniter fails to glow or becomes weak or damaged, it may not ignite the gas to produce heat.
• Defective gas valve solenoids (gas models): The gas valve solenoids control the flow of gas to the burner. If they’re faulty, the gas may not reach the burner to produce heat.
• Gas supply problems (gas models): A disconnected, kinked, damaged or leaking gas supply to the dryer can prevent it from working correctly.
• Faulty flame sensor (gas models): The flame sensor detects the presence of a flame. If it’s dirty or faulty, it may not detect a flame in the dryer, which can cause the gas valve to close and prevent heat from being produced.

Safety precautions

When working on any appliance, remember to keep safety first. Here are some tips to keep in mind:

• Always power off and unplug your appliance or switch off the circuit breaker before you attempt any maintenance or replacement work. This keeps you safe by eliminating any risk of electric shock.
• If the appliance has recently been used, give it plenty of time to cool down before working on it.
• If you have a gas model, shut off the gas supply to prevent any leaks while you work.
• Take your time while working to prevent accidents and personal injuries. Rushing is the enemy of precision.
• Work in a well-lit area so you can see and access appliance parts.
• Keep your workspace free of clutter and other obstacles. Keep children and pets away from the work area.
• Never work on internal parts with wet hands. Make sure the work area is completely dry.
• Check the user manual to see if there are specific installation or safety instructions related to your appliance or replacement part.
• Be gentle when handling or removing parts. Excessive force might damage the appliance or cause personal injury.
• Wear insulated work gloves to protect your hands from sharp metal parts and debris.
• When working with wires, avoid touching any exposed wires or terminals. If you need to touch a wire, use a non-conductive tool or wear insulating gloves to prevent electrical shock.
• Always take photos or make a note of wiring terminals or other connections before disconnecting them to make reassembly easier.
• Don’t test live voltage with a multimeter if you’re unfamiliar with how to prevent short-circuiting.

How to troubleshoot a Samsung dryer that cools instead of heats

Here’s how you can find out why your dryer is cooling instead of heating.

Check the dryer’s settings

This is the simplest check, and it’s best to start here. Look at the dryer’s settings and make sure they’re adjusted for the type of load you’re drying. Some dryers have an air dry setting that is designed to dry laundry without heat. If the settings are incorrect for the cycle you’re trying to run, change them and try starting a cycle again.

Check the power supply (on electric models)

1. Make sure the dryer is plugged into a working 240-volt outlet.
2. Check for any signs of damage on the plug or cord, such as fraying or burn marks. Replace the cord if needed.
3. Check your home’s electrical panel and look for any tripped breakers. If one of the two 120V breakers is tripped, flip it back to the “ON” position. If the breakers repeatedly trip, you may need to get an electrician to inspect your home’s wiring.
4. Remove the dryer’s back panel to expose the terminal block where the power cord connects. If the terminal block is damaged in any way, replace it.

LIVE VOLTAGE WARNING: For this test, the appliance needs to be plugged in and powered on. Please be very careful to protect yourself from electric shock, which has the potential to cause serious injuries. Don’t ever test live voltage if you’re uncomfortable using a multimeter.

5. Set a multimeter to AC voltage (VAC) to measure up to 240V or higher.
6. Place one meter probe on L1 and the other on L2 on the terminal block. A reading of 240V indicates the dryer is receiving the correct voltage.
7. Place one probe on L1 and the other on Neutral and check for 120V. Repeat for L2 and Neutral for another 120V reading.

If you get the correct voltage, reattach the back panel and continue troubleshooting. If you get incorrect voltage, contact an electrician to inspect the outlet.

Inspect the lint filter

1. Open the dryer door and pull out the lint filter (also called a lint trap) from its compartment.
2. Use a soft brush or run the lint filter under water to remove all debris. Make sure the lint trap is completely dry before placing it back in the dryer.
3. Shine a flashlight into the lint filter housing to check for additional lint buildup. Use a vacuum to remove any debris inside.

Read more: Samsung Dryer Repair Help

Check the dryer vent

1. Pull the dryer away from the wall and disconnect the vent hose from the back.
2. Look for any visible obstructions or kinks in the hose that may restrict airflow. If the hose is damaged, replace it.
3. Use a vacuum or a vent cleaning brush to clear the vent and the entire length of the hose.
4. Check where the dryer vent exits your home for blockages like leaves or bird nests. Remove any debris that you find.
5. Once cleaned, reconnect the hose to the dryer and the vent and run the dryer on an air-dry cycle. Check the outside vent to see if air is flowing freely.

Test the thermal fuse

1. Disconnect the dryer from the power supply.
2. Depending on your model, remove the back panel or access the blower housing to find the thermal fuse.
3. Carefully disconnect the wires from the thermal fuse terminals.
4. Switch your multimeter to the lowest setting for resistance (Ω).
5. Place the multimeter probes on the terminals of the thermal fuse.
6. Check the meter reading. If the multimeter shows a reading close to 0, the fuse is good. If the multimeter shows “OL” or infinite resistance, the fuse has blown and needs to be replaced.

NOTE: Refer to the manufacturer’s technical information for the most accurate resistance guidelines.

Check the heating element (on electric models)

1. Disconnect the dryer from the power outlet.
2. Remove the back panel or front access panel — depending on your specific model — to find the heating element.
3. Look for any obvious signs of damage, like breaks or burn marks on the heating element.
4. Carefully remove the wires attached to the heating element’s terminals.
5. Switch your multimeter to the resistance (Ω) setting.
6. Place the meter probes on the heating element’s terminals.
7. Check the meter reading. A reading between 10 and 50 Ohms typically means the heating element is working. If the multimeter shows “OL” or 0, then the element is faulty and needs to be replaced.

NOTE: Refer to the manufacturer’s technical information for the most accurate resistance guidelines.

Test the cycling thermostat

1. Disconnect the dryer from the electrical outlet.
2. Remove the back panel of the dryer or access the blower housing to find the cycling thermostat.
3. Switch the multimeter to the resistance (Ω) setting.
4. Disconnect the wires connected to the bias heater terminals on the cycling thermostat.
5. Place the multimeter probes on the bias heater terminals. If the resistance is within the manufacturer’s specifications (biased heaters in a thermostat tend to have high resistance), then the bias heater is functioning correctly. If you get “OL” or infinite resistance, then the bias heater should be replaced.
6. Disconnect the wires from the thermostat terminals.
7. Set the multimeter to continuity mode.
8. Place the multimeter probes on the thermostat terminals. If there’s continuity, the meter should make a beeping sound to show that the thermostat is functioning correctly. If the thermostat doesn’t show continuity, then it needs to be replaced.

Test the gas valve solenoids (on some gas models)

1. Unplug the dryer from the power outlet.
2. Find the gas valve solenoids, which are located on the burner assembly. They are small coils with wire connections.
3. Note the positions of the wires for reassembly later on by taking a picture, then carefully disconnect the wire harnesses connected to each solenoid.
4. Switch your multimeter to the resistance (Ω) setting.
5. Use the meter probes to check the resistance between the two terminals of the two-prong coil. It should read 1,000-1,300 Ohms.
6. Test the three-prong coil by measuring the resistance between prongs 1 & 2 (which should be 1,000-1,300 Ohms) and between prongs 1 & 3 (which should be 500-600 Ohms).

If any readings are outside the normal ranges, replace the faulty gas valve coil.

Test the igniter (on gas models)

1. Make sure the gas supply to the dryer is turned on and that the gas line isn’t kinked, blocked, damaged or leaking.
2. Depending on the dryer model, you may need to remove the front or back panel to access the igniter, which is typically located near the burner assembly. It’s a small rectangular or square-shaped part with a wire attached to it.
3. Carefully look over the igniter for any visible signs of damage like cracks, breaks, or discoloration. If it’s damaged, replace it with a new one.

LIVE VOLTAGE WARNING: For this test, the appliance needs to be plugged in and powered on. Please be very careful to protect yourself from electric shock, which has the potential to cause serious injuries. Don’t ever test live voltage if you’re uncomfortable using a multimeter.

4. Switch your multimeter to the voltage setting appropriate for your dryer (usually AC voltage).
5. Place the multimeter probes on the two terminals of the igniter while it’s still connected.
6. Turn on the dryer and start a drying cycle. The igniter should be receiving voltage during the heating cycle. The multimeter should display 120 volts AC if the igniter is receiving the correct amount of power.
7. Watch the igniter during the heating cycle. A functioning igniter should glow brightly. If it doesn’t light up or if there are dark spots on the igniter surface, it will need to be replaced.

Test the flame sensor (on gas models)

1. Unplug the dryer and find the flame sensor near the burner assembly.
2. Take a photo of the wires attached to the flame sensor so you can remember how to reassemble them, then disconnect them from the sensor.
3. Set the multimeter to continuity mode.
4. Place one meter probe on each of the flame sensor’s terminals. Check that the probes are making good contact with the metal terminals.

A beeping sound from the meter means that the flame sensor has continuity and is functioning correctly. If there’s no continuity, then the flame sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced.

Read more: Samsung Dryer Not Heating Help

FAQs

Looking for more? Check out these frequently asked questions about Samsung dryers.

How do I know if the heating element is bad on my Samsung dryer?

Signs of a bad heating element include:

• Clothes are still damp or partially dry after a drying cycle
• Clothes take much longer than usual to dry
• A burning odor during a cycle
• Breaks, burn marks, corrosion or other damage to the element
• Frequent tripping of circuit breakers

Is there a fuse for the heating element in a Samsung dryer?

Yes, nearly all dryers — including Samsung models — have a thermal fuse, which is a safety device that prevents the unit from overheating. If the fuse blows, the dryer won’t produce heat. You can typically find the thermal fuse near the heating element or blower housing. It can be tested with a multimeter.

How much does it cost to replace the heating element in a Samsung dryer?

If you’re replacing the heating element yourself, it may cost $80 to $120 for a new part. If you call in a professional to install one, you could end up paying as much as $400 for the part and labor. Prices may vary based on your location, preferred company, market supply, inflation and other factors.

Additional information

Thanks for reading! We hope this guide helped you fix your Samsung dryer.

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