Electric GE dryer won’t heat: How to fix it

When your GE electric dryer stops heating, it can be a frustrating problem that leaves your laundry damp and unfinished. Instead of spending money on an expensive service call, there are a few simple troubleshooting steps you can take to diagnose and fix the issue yourself.

Don’t worry – we’re here to help! Let’s dive in so you can get your GE dryer working again.

If you find out that you need any replacement parts for your GE dryer while you’re troubleshooting, you can enter your model number at AppliancePartsPros.com to order them. Most orders arrive in just two business days, and we have thousands of free guides to show you how to install your new parts.

Important: The part replacement information provided in this article is based on model DBSR453EB3WW and may not apply to your specific dryer model. While we strive to offer helpful advice for DIY appliance repairs, variations in models and configurations can lead to differences in troubleshooting steps, error codes and part replacements. For the most accurate guidance, we strongly recommend consulting the technical sheet for your specific appliance model.

What you need

• Multimeter
• Torx 20 driver
• 1/4-inch driver
• Phillips screwdriver

Important: The specific tools required may vary depending on the model of your appliance and the type of fasteners used on it. Always consult the user manual or refer to any specific instructions provided by the manufacturer for the recommended tools for your appliance model.

Read more: How To Disassemble A Dryer

Safety precautions

When working on any appliance, remember to keep safety first. Here are some tips to keep in mind:

• Always power off and unplug your appliance or switch off the circuit breaker before you attempt any maintenance or replacement work. This keeps you safe by eliminating any risk of electric shock.
• If the appliance has recently been used, give it plenty of time to cool down before working on it.
• Take your time while working to prevent accidents and personal injuries. Rushing is the enemy of precision.
• Work in a well-lit area so you can see and access appliance parts.
• Keep your workspace free of clutter and other obstacles. Keep children and pets away from the work area.
• Never work on internal parts with wet hands. Make sure the work area is completely dry.
• Check the user manual to see if there are specific installation or safety instructions related to your appliance or replacement part.
• Be gentle when handling or removing parts. Excessive force might damage the appliance or cause personal injury.
• Wear insulated work gloves to protect your hands from sharp metal parts and debris.
• When working with wires, avoid touching any exposed wires or terminals. If you need to touch a wire, use a non-conductive tool or wear insulating gloves to prevent electrical shock.
• Always take photos or make a note of wiring terminals or other connections before disconnecting them to make reassembly easier.

Read more: How to Clean a Dryer Vent

How to troubleshoot the dryer

Follow these steps to find out what’s preventing your GE dryer from heating.

Step 1: Check voltage

LIVE VOLTAGE WARNING: For this test, the appliance needs to be plugged in and powered on. Please be very careful to protect yourself from electric shock, which has the potential to cause serious injuries. Don’t ever test live voltage if you’re uncomfortable using a multimeter.

Use a multimeter set to Volts AC mode and the meter probes to check that there are 240 Volts AC at the terminal block of the dryer.

If the voltage is less than 240V, the issue may be with the outlet, which should be checked by a licensed electrician.

Step 2: Test the timer

1. Unplug the dryer from the power outlet.
2. Remove the back console panel.
3. Use a Torx 20 driver to remove the mounting screws along the top of the console and rotate it forward to access the timer.
4. Set the timer to a timed cycle and remove the orange wire.
5. Set the multimeter to continuity mode.
6. Use the meter probes to test from terminal B to terminal A on the timer. You should get continuity and hear a beeping sound from the multimeter.

If there’s no continuity, the timer needs to be replaced. If there is continuity, proceed to the next step.

Step 3: Test the temperature selector

1. Set the temperature selector to cotton or high heat.
2. Remove the orange wire from terminal 16.
3. Remove the blue wire from terminal 8.
4. Use the multimeter to test for continuity from the orange wire at terminal 15 to the empty terminal 16. There should be continuity and the meter should make a beeping sound. There should not be continuity to any other terminals at this point.
5. Set the temperature selector to delicate or low heat.
6. Use the meter probes to test for continuity from terminal 6 to the yellow wire at terminal 7. If there’s continuity, then the selector switch is good and you’ll need to continue troubleshooting. If you don’t get continuity, then you’ll need to replace the temperature selector.

Step 4: Test the safety thermostat

1. Secure the console with the Torx 20 screws.
2. Remove the front panel by taking out the two Phillips screws at the top.
3. Find the safety thermostat on top of the element housing on the far left. The drum may need to be removed to access the thermostat, depending on your model.
4. Remove one wire and set the multimeter to continuity mode.
5. Use the meter probes to test the thermostat. If there’s no continuity, then the thermostat has failed and needs to be replaced.

If you got continuity, continue testing.

Step 5: Test the inlet thermostat

1. Find the inlet thermostat, which is next to the safety thermostat, second from the left.
2. Use the multimeter to test the inlet thermostat for continuity.
3. Check the meter. If there’s no continuity, the thermostat has failed and needs to be replaced.

If you got continuity, move on to the next step.

Step 6: Test the heating element

1. Unplug the blue and purple wires from the heating element.
2. Set the multimeter to the resistance setting (Ω).
3. Use the meter probes to measure the resistance of each winding.
4. Check the meter reading. The resistance of each winding should be 19.2 Ohms, +/- 1 Ohm. If the resistance is outside this range, the heating element needs to be replaced.

If the resistance is good, continue troubleshooting.

Step 7: Test the outlet thermostat

1. Remove the Phillips screws at the back corners of the front panel.
2. Lift the front panel up and rotate it to the side.
3. Disconnect the door switch wires and set the front panel aside.
4. Use the multimeter in continuity mode to test the outlet thermostat.

If there’s no continuity here, then the thermostat has failed and needs to be replaced. If you get continuity, then there’s only one more part to check.

Step 8: Test the motor

If you haven’t found the problem after all previous testing, then the motor is likely the cause. But you can test the motor to be sure.

1. Use the multimeter in continuity mode to test from the far left to the far right terminals on the motor.
2. Pull the centrifugal plate to activate the switch contacts.
3. Check the meter. If there’s no continuity, then the motor has failed and needs to be replaced.

Read more:   Electric GE dryer won’t start: A troubleshooting guide

More to explore

Thanks for reading! We hope this guide helped you get your electric GE dryer working again.

If you have any other appliance repair needs or projects, don’t hesitate to check out our other troubleshooting guides and videos.

If you need replacement parts or some extra help with ordering them, grab your model number and head over to AppliancePartsPros.com, where you can chat with a pro, read our DIY blog and more.

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