F09 Whirlpool Washer Error Code: A Troubleshooting Guide

Introduction

Having issues getting your Whirlpool duet washer to drain properly? An F09 Whirlpool Washer Error Code deals with a draining problem triggering the F09 overflow error.

This common error code indicates the internal pressure switch in your Whirlpool duet washing machine has detected an overflow condition for over 60 seconds of run time during the clean washer cycle. When this error message is triggered, it will keep the washer door locked as a safety precaution, while the integrated drain pump continues running even if you hit pause or try to cancel/clear the cycle.

To properly troubleshoot and fix an F09 overflow error code, you’ll need to access and inspect the drain pump system. In this DIY guide, we’ll walk through how to diagnose and repair Whirlpool washer drain issues leading to the F09 code.

What Causes the F09 Overflow Error?

Before diving into troubleshooting steps, it helps to understand what exactly causes the F09 overflow condition in the first place.

There are two root causes of an F09 error on your Whirlpool washer:

1. Blockage in the drain system: By far the most common reason for an F09 error is a clog or blockage in the drain pump system. This includes obstructions in the drain hose, drain pump filter, or drain pump itself. With the drain pathway clogged or blocked, water cannot properly evacuate the wash tub during cycles.
2. Faulty pressure switch: Less common, but a malfunctioning or failed pressure switch can also trigger an F09 code. The pressure switch monitors water levels and times drain durations in the tub. If it’s not providing accurate readings, the control board misinterprets this as an overflow.

So in most cases, focusing your troubleshooting on the drain pump and the hose pathway is the way to go. But a bad pressure switch can also cause an error.

Troubleshooting the F09 Error Code Step-By-Step

Now let’s go through the steps to diagnose and fix an F09 overflow error on your Whirlpool top load or front load washer.

1. Check the drain hose for clogs or kinks

The first thing you’ll want to do is inspect the drain hose visually. Check the drain hose height and for any clogs, blockages, or kinks stopping proper water flow.

Make sure the drain hose is seated properly in the standpipe or utility sink drain. You don’t want it jammed too far in or sealed off. There should be an air gap.

Also, check to make sure the drain hose isn’t kinked or pinched behind the washer.

2. Clean out the drain pump filter

After checking the hose, clean out the drain pump filter. Located at the bottom front of the washer, this filter collects coins, buttons, rocks, and other debris that can clog pumps.

To access the filter, first, unplug the washer power cord for safety. Then remove the lower front access panel. You’ll need to use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the screws.

Once the access panel is removed, you’ll see the drain pump housing. Rotate the filter counterclockwise to unlock it, then pull it out. Remove any debris, and make sure the filter is not damaged.

While you have it open, check for any obstruction in the drain pump itself preventing water from properly evacuating.

3. Check control board connections

Before assuming the drain pump hardware itself has failed, first, check the electrical connections.

Make sure the wiring harness connectors at the drain pump, pressure switch, and electronic control board are all secure. Loose or corroded connections can interrupt the signals to activate the pump.

Inspect wires for any cuts, damages, or burnt spots. Make repairs as needed.

4. Test the drain pump

If the pump connections check out, next test the pump itself for functionality.

Start by making sure the pump filter is cleaned out and reinstalled properly. Double-check that any hoses or inlet tubes are also connected securely.

With the power cord unplugged, take a multimeter and set it to test for continuity. Touch the multimeter probes across the drain pump contacts or terminals.

Consult your specific washer’s wiring diagram to determine which contacts to test. But in general:

• Test between the power contacts, you should find a closed circuit and get a full continuity reading (low resistance). This confirms power is flowing properly through the pump.
• Test between the pump motor contacts. Resistance should measure around 10-20 Ω, indicating the pump coil windings are intact.
• An open circuit or high resistance implies the pump motor winding is damaged and the pump needs replacement.

You can also use a multimeter to check if the pump is activating properly:

• Set the multimeter to Volts AC and plug the washer back in.
• Enter the drain mode and check the voltage reading at the pump contacts once it should engage. You should see 120V.
• A low or zero volt reading indicates a bad pump that won’t turn on.

Additionally, watch during the drain cycle to see if the pump is humming or spinning. If the pump buzzes but doesn’t run a long drain time, the motor is seized up from debris. This would call for a full pump replacement.

Finally, check that the pump can sufficiently drain the tub in under 8 minutes. If you time a full drain cycle and it takes significantly longer than that, the pump motor power may be degrading. Go ahead and replace it.

Follow all safety precautions when testing live voltage and currents on the washer.

5. Verify the pressure switch

While not as common, a failed or malfunctioning switch can also be the culprit behind an F09 overflow error code.

The pressure switch also known as the pressure sensor monitors water levels and drain times inside the washer tub. If the switch fails, it can send faulty readings to the control board leading to overflow errors.

Start by removing the pressure switch panel on the washer to access the switch. The switch will have a rubber hose connected from the tub to its underside.

Carefully remove this pressure hose and inspect it. Look for any cracks, blockages, or kinks that could obstruct water flow through the hose. Make sure the hose fittings are sealed tight.

Next, examine the pressure switch diaphragm. Look for any tears, cracks, or holes that could allow water to seep inside and damage the internal switch contacts. If the diaphragm is damaged, replace the entire switch.

To electrically test the pressure switch, use a multimeter and consult the wiring diagram for your specific model. You’ll need to probe different switch contacts based on water fill levels.

Set the multimeter to continuity test mode. It should show open lines between contacts (high resistance) when no water level is present. You want to see closed circuits (low resistance) between the proper contact sets based on the tub water level.

Abnormal switch readings indicate a bad switch that should be replaced. Make sure to properly reconnect the pressure hose after replacement.

6. Recheck error code

After cleaning and replacing any faulty drain pump or pressure switch components, reinstall everything properly.

Plug the washer back in and run a test wash cycle again. See if the F09 Whirlpool washer error code persists.

If it does repeat, the central control unit itself may be defective and require replacement.

Conclusion

Troubleshooting Whirlpool washer errors like F09 can be frustrating, but a bit of DIY troubleshooting can save hundreds on repairs. Hopefully, this guide gives you a better idea of how to diagnose and fix overflow problems leading to this common error code. For further troubleshooting tips, make sure to check out our website and YouTube.