Refrigerator Won’t Start: Top 6 Reasons and Fixes for Kenmore, Whirlpool, Frigidaire, GE, and Other Brands (With Video!)

Is your refrigerator suddenly refusing to start, leaving your kitchen in a pickle and your food at risk? Don’t worry–we’ve simplified the troubleshooting process for you, pinpointing six possible culprits that might be leaving your fridge out in the cold. Dive into our step-by-step guide and check out the how-to video below that makes it easy for any homeowner to bring their appliance back to life!

When you have a refrigerator that won’t start the way that it should, there may be one of six components inside that is no longer working correctly. Troubleshooting can often help you determine what is going wrong, but it’s essential to be safe during the process. Turn off the water supply under your kitchen sink. The circuit breaker should also be turned off or the refrigerator should be unplugged to prevent dangerous situations from occurring. Once your refrigerator is safe to work with, follow this troubleshooting guide to diagnose which refrigerator part is causing the problem.

When you have identified the part needed for your refrigerator, search below using your specific fridge model number to identify the exact part needed:

1. Start Capacitor

The first part to look at when a refrigerator doesn’t start is the start capacitor. It is responsible for helping the compressor get started so the refrigerator can run. The start capacitor holds electricity and releases it to the compressor when it needs to start so it has extra power and torque. When the start capacitor isn’t working, the compressor cannot start.

Typically, a start capacitor in a refrigerator will be found on the back of the refrigerator in the bottom access panel. Sometimes it may also be found in the circuit board access panel. If you have a refrigerator that will not start, the start capacitor may have failed and will need to be replaced. Depending on the style of the start capacitor in your refrigerator, once you get access to it, you should remove the wiring harness or disconnect the wires.

Take the part out and visually inspect it before you test it. If the start capacitor appears as if it has been leaking or is bulging, it will need replacement. If everything looks fine, use a multimeter to test the ohms of the component. Some multimeters will automatically detect the level of ohms, while you may need to do this manually in other cases.

Before doing testing, discharge the capacitor by removing the wires and placed an insulated screwdriver on the top. Be sure not to touch the metal of the screwdriver during this process. Next, place the probes on each terminal and see if the ohms reading rises and then goes back down. Switch the probes to the other terminals and the same thing should occur. If not, the part will need to be replaced.

2. Cold Control

The second component to consider is the cold control; it sets the temperature of the refrigerator. It’s made of a body that has contacts inside as well as a shaft that attaches to the knob and a sensor bulb that keeps track of the current temperature inside the fridge. In most cases, the cold control will also have dual wire terminals inside. Accessing the cold control can be done by looking behind the control panel, which is mounted behind the control knobs on the refrigerator.

If your refrigerator isn’t starting as it should be, the cold control may have gone bad. The cold control sensor creates pressure that opens and closes the contact to the cold control sensor bulb. When the temperature changes in the fridge, it will contract or expand. If the refrigerator isn’t starting and the compressor isn’t activating the way that it should be, it might be possible that the contacts inside are stuck.

An easy test for this involves taking the end of a screwdriver and knocking it up against the control panel, which sometimes helps break the contacts free. If the refrigerator isn’t starting and this test makes it go back to normal, this is a sign that the controls are sticking together. The cold control will need to be replaced.

If this test does nothing, there is another option. Double check the refrigerator is unplugged and then use a multimeter to see if the cold control carries an electrical current. The meter should be set to continuity and the probes pressed together to ensure the meter is working the way it should be.

To test the cold control, the control area needs to be opened and the wires should be removed. Turn the cold control to the “off” position and then press one probe to each terminal. At this point, the multimeter should show no continuity. Next, turn back on the cold control and repeat the process. There should be continuity when running the second test. If this isn’t the case, the cold control will need to be replaced.

3. Defrost Timer

The defrost time controls the defrost cycle on your refrigerator and may cause it not to start if it is no longer working correctly. This part comes with a motor, gears, and contacts.  It takes the refrigerator from defrost to cooling cycles while ensuring that no ice starts to build up on the evaporator. The timer is set to operate in cooling for a certain number of hours, after which it goes into defrost for a specific number of minutes.

In most cases, you can find the defrost timer inside the control panel of the refrigerator. If your fridge is older, it may also be found behind the kick panel at the bottom of the appliance. When the defrost timer isn’t working the way it should be, it can cause the refrigerator not to start. If the evaporator starts to experience a build-up of ice, circulating cold air is harder for the fridge.

There’s a straightforward way to test whether the defrost timer is working. Mark the timer shaft and take note of where it is located. Take a little wait and then come back to see if the mark is in another position. If it is in a new position, the timer is working. However, if the mark doesn’t move, the gears or motor may have failed and you will need to replace the component.

If you want a faster way to test this part, manually move the timer shaft using a screwdriver. When it hits defrost mode, you should hear the sound of the heater operating. Keep in mind that the refrigerator will need to be plugged in for this to occur. Locate the heater behind the refrigerator back wall and check for heat a few minutes later. If heat isn’t present, the timer or another component may need to be replaced.

4. Start Relay

The start relay is another component that may have malfunctioned if your refrigerator won’t start. It provides power to the run and starts the windings of the compressor. Start relays have been in use on refrigerators for many years and offer a boost of power to help the compressor parts. After the compressor is at the desired speed, the start relay cuts power to the start winding.

In most cases, the compressor will be found in the access panel at the back bottom of the refrigerator. The start relay is typically mounted on the side of the compressor on the pins. Some come with covers on top of them, while others do not. A bad start relay is one of the causes that could be contributing to a refrigerator that won’t start. When this is the case, a clicking noise may come from the relay.

When inspecting the starter relay, remove the cover if the part has one. A small flat head screwdriver can be used to remove the wires from the part. At this point, the start relay can be removed from the compressor pins. If the relay has a coil on the top of it, there is a plunger inside so it will make a rattling sound. Other relays may have a smaller rattle.

For relays with a coil on the top, test it with the coil pointing up. Place a probe into each pin hole on the start relay and it should show that it has continuity. When you turn it over, there should be no continuity. For newer relays, place the probes into the pin holes and you should have continuity. If this isn’t the case, the relay will need to be replaced.

5. Compressor Start Device

The compressor start device is used to protect and start the compressor on the refrigerator. It’s made of an overload protector and a start relay and offers power to the run and start windings. When the compressor gets up to speed, it will cut power to the start windings. If the compressor overheats, it will also interrupt the power to prevent any failures. This component is found behind the access door on the back bottom of the refrigerator. It’s found on the pins of the compressor and may have a cover on top of it.

If the compressor starting causes clicking, this can be a sign that the compressor start device has gone bad. On the other hand, if no noise is coming from it, the overload protector may not be working. The part will need to be removed to test whether it is in working order.

Things to look for are particles that come out of the start relay when it’s shaken, a burnt smell, or a melted body. If there is any physical damage that you can see on the start relay, the part will need to be replaced. If you aren’t sure whether the part is bad, it can be tested for continuity using a multimeter.

6. Main Control Board

The last component to consider if the refrigerator isn’t running is the main control board. This part sends power to the compressor so it can run. It collects data from all the sensors and switches in the fridge. Most of the time, this will be found behind the control area of the refrigerator or the back wall behind an access panel. If the compressor doesn’t start, a relay may have failed so no power is sent to the compressor.

Since there are many main control board designs, testing yours may be different from another one. Take out the user manual for the model you own and go through the troubleshooting steps inside. This will give you information to know if the part needs to be replaced.

Where To Find Us 

If you need any replacement parts for your appliances, you can enter your model number at AppliancePartsPros.com to locate and order them quickly. Most orders arrive in just two business days, and we have tons of great information in our repair help section and YouTube videos to help you troubleshoot.

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