Samsung range triple surface element isn’t heating: What it means and how to fix it

If the triple surface element on your electric Samsung range isn’t heating, don’t call an expensive repair technician just yet! The problem is easier to fix than you think, and you can get your unit back up and running in no time.

If you find out that you need any replacement parts for your Samsung range while you’re troubleshooting, you can enter your model number at AppliancePartsPros.com to order them. Most orders arrive in just two business days, and we have thousands of free guides to show you how to install your new parts.

Important: The troubleshooting information in this article is based on model FTQ387LWGX and may not apply to your specific appliance model. While we strive to offer helpful advice for DIY appliance repairs, variations in models and configurations can lead to differences in troubleshooting steps, error codes and part replacements. For the most accurate guidance, we strongly recommend consulting the technical sheet for your specific appliance model.

What you need

• Phillips head screwdriver
• Multimeter

Important: The specific tools required may vary depending on the model of your appliance and the type of fasteners used on it. Always consult the user manual or refer to any specific instructions provided by the manufacturer for the recommended tools for your appliance model.

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Safety precautions

When working on any appliance, remember to keep safety first. Here are some tips to keep in mind:

• Always power off and unplug your appliance or switch off the circuit breaker before you attempt any maintenance or replacement work. This keeps you safe by eliminating any risk of electric shock.
• If the appliance has recently been used, give it plenty of time to cool down before working on it.
• Take your time while working to prevent accidents and personal injuries. Rushing is the enemy of precision.
• Work in a well-lit area so you can see and access appliance parts.
• Keep your workspace free of clutter and other obstacles. Keep children and pets away from the work area.
• Never work on internal parts with wet hands. Make sure the work area is completely dry.
• Check the user manual to see if there are specific installation or safety instructions related to your appliance or replacement part.
• Be gentle when handling or removing parts. Excessive force might damage the appliance or cause personal injury.
• Wear insulated work gloves to protect your hands from sharp metal parts and debris.
• When working with wires, avoid touching any exposed wires or terminals. If you need to touch a wire, use a non-conductive tool or wear insulating gloves to prevent electrical shock.
• Always take photos or make a note of wiring terminals or other connections before disconnecting them to make reassembly easier.
• Don’t test live voltage with a multimeter if you’re unfamiliar with how to prevent short-circuiting.
• Consider wearing safety glasses and/or a dust mask when working with chemicals, dust or a large amount of debris to prevent irritation or injury.

Read more: Electric Range Element Won’t Heat: Top 7 Reasons & Fixes

How to troubleshoot the range

Follow these steps to find out why the triple element isn’t working and how you can fix it.

Step 1: Test the switch

1. Unplug the range from the power supply.
2. Remove the rear panel on the back of the control panel by taking out the screws that hold it in place.

LIVE VOLTAGE WARNING: For this test, the range needs to be plugged in and powered on. Please be very careful to protect yourself from electric shock, which has the potential to cause serious injuries. Don’t ever test live voltage if you’re uncomfortable using a multimeter.

3. Plug the unit back into the power outlet.
4. Set your multimeter to volts AC mode.
5. Use the meter probes to test for 240 volts AC between the P1 terminal (double red wire) and P2 terminal (double black wire) of the infinite switch. If there’s 240 VAC, continue troubleshooting. If there isn’t 240 volts AC, then there may be a wire failure in the main harness.

6. Set the infinite switch to the inner element position.
7. Use the meter probes to test for 240 volts AC between terminal 4 (blue and sky blue wire) and terminal 2 (gray wire). If you get 240 volts AC, continue troubleshooting. If there isn’t 240 volts AC, then the inner element circuit of the infinite switch is likely faulty.
8. Set the infinite switch to the inner and middle element positions.
9. Use the meter probes to test for 240 volts AC between terminal 4a (sky blue wire) and terminal 2 (gray wire). If you get 240 volts AC, continue troubleshooting. If there isn’t 240 volts AC, then the middle element circuit of the infinite switch is faulty and needs to be replaced.
10. Set the infinite switch to the largest element position.
11. Use the meter probes to test for 120 volts AC between terminal 4b (sky blue and purple wire) and chassis ground.
12. Use the meter probes to test for 240 volts AC between the upper terminal 4 (yellow wire) and terminal 2 (gray wire). If there’s 240 volts AC, then the infinite switch is functioning properly. If there isn’t 240 volts AC at any of the terminal connections, then the infinite switch is faulty and needs to be replaced.

Step 2: Test the wire harness

1. Unplug the range or turn off the circuit breaker.
2. Access the element by opening the oven door and removing the screws at the top of the opening that hold the main top in place.
3. Disconnect the wiring connection in the back, then lift up the main top and expose the elements.
4. Set your multimeter to continuity mode.
5. Use the meter probes to test for continuity between the ends of each wire in the wiring harness. If there’s continuity, then the wiring harness is good and you can continue to the next step. If there isn’t continuity, then the wiring harness is faulty and needs to be replaced.

Step 3: Test the element

1. Make sure the range is unplugged or the circuit breaker is turned off.
2. Set your multimeter to continuity mode.
3. Use the meter probes to test between connectors 1b and 2b. There shouldn’t be continuity here.
4. Set the multimeter to resistance mode.
5. Use the meter probes to test from 2a to A (inner element) for 48-55 Ohms.
6. Use the meter probes to test from 2a to B (middle element) for 42-48 Ohms.
7. Use the meter probes to test from 2a to C (outer element) for 70-75 Ohms.

LIVE VOLTAGE WARNING: For this test, the range needs to be plugged in and powered on. Please be very careful to protect yourself from electric shock, which has the potential to cause serious injuries. Don’t ever test live voltage if you’re uncomfortable using a multimeter.

8. Plug the range back in or turn the circuit breaker on.
9. Set the multimeter to volts AC mode.
10. Use the meter probes to test for 240 volts AC between terminal 2a and terminal A (inner element), between terminal 2a and terminal B (middle element) and between terminal 2a and terminal C (outer element).

If the element terminals have 240 volts AC, then the element is likely faulty and needs to be replaced.

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Additional information

Thanks for reading! We hope this guide helped you get your Samsung range working again.

If you have any other appliance repair needs or projects, don’t hesitate to explore our other troubleshooting guides and videos.

If you need replacement parts or some extra help with ordering them, grab your model number and head over to AppliancePartsPros.com, where you can chat with a pro, read our DIY blog and more.

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