Freezer is Cold and Refrigerator is Warm: Top 8 Reasons and Fixes for Kenmore, Whirlpool, Frigidaire, GE, and Other Brands (With Video!)

Is your refrigerator running warm while the freezer stays frosty cold? This common problem, often caused by a malfunctioning part in your fridge, can be frustrating for any homeowner. Dive into our expert guide and discover step-by-step solutions with a handy video tutorial below to help you get your refrigerator back to optimal performance.

If your refrigerator is running warm but the freezer remains cold, there may be a problem with a component inside the fridge. Before starting the troubleshooting for the refrigerator, make sure the area is safe for you to do work. This will require either unplugging the fridge or turning off the circuit breaker. The water supply for the refrigerator that’s found under the sink should also be turned off. Once your refrigerator is safe to work with, follow this simple guide to troubleshoot which of the eight components may be causing the problem.

When you have identified the part needed for your refrigerator, search below using your specific fridge model number to identify the exact part needed:

1. Defrost Timer

When the refrigerator is too warm but the freezer is at the desired temperature, the defrost timer is one thing to look at. This part controls the defrost cycle and is made up of a motor, gears, and contacts. It takes the refrigerator from defrost to cooling cycles while making sure that the evaporator doesn’t become covered in ice. The defrost timer is set up so it cools for a certain number of hours and then defrosts for a specific amount of minutes.

In most cases, the control section of the refrigerator is where to find the defrost timer. On an older refrigerator, it may also be located behind the kick panel. If the defrost timer is broken or has stopped working, the refrigerator might run longer than it should while not reaching the correct temperature. When the evaporator has ice buildup, this can also make it hard for the fridge to move around cold air.

You can test whether the defrost timer is working by marking the timer shaft, stepping away for a while, and then coming back to see if it has moved from the initial position. If it hasn’t moved, the gears or the motor may not be working and the component will need to be replaced. This test can also be done by manually moving the timer shaft with a screwdriver.

For this test, the refrigerator will need to be plugged into the wall. When you move the timer shaft to defrost, it should cause the heater to come on. Locate the heater behind the refrigerator’s back wall. After a few minutes of it running, see whether you can feel heat coming from it. If not, the timer might need to be replaced.

2. Defrost Thermostat

The defrost thermostat within the refrigerator is a safety component that turns the defrost cycle off if the refrigerator starts to get too warm. When the temperature gets too high, the thermostat will turn off the heater’s power so the food inside the refrigerator stays at a proper temperature. Most defrost thermometers have a temperature rating that lets you know when the defrost cycle will turn off based on temperature.

Defrost thermostats are most often found behind the back wall on the evaporator. If the refrigerator is getting too warm but the freezer is not, this could be because the defrost cycle is running for longer than it should. If this occurs, cold air won’t be able to circulate around the refrigerator and the evaporator may become covered in ice. If you know the reset temperature, you can test if the thermostat is colder than the reset temp.

A multimeter can be used to test this part but ensure it’s set to continuity. Before doing the test, take the probes of the meter and press them against each other to be sure the meter is working. If it is, touch each of the probes to a terminal or bare wire on the defrost thermostat. If the reading shows no continuity, the defrost thermostat has a problem and will need to be replaced.

3. Defrost Heater

When you have a refrigerator that is too warm, another thing to look at is the defrost heater. This part is responsible for melting any ice that shows up on the evaporator. While there are many styles of defrost heaters, all of them do the same job of keeping ice melted and ensuring your refrigerator stays at the temperature you prefer.

Most of the time, the defrost heater is located behind the wall of the freezer on the bottom or sides of the evaporator. When this part fails, it can cause the refrigerator to heat up. When cold air can’t circulate around the refrigerator, a continuity test should be done to see if the part is working. The wires need to be removed from the defrost heater and then touched with a test probe on a multimeter. If continuity isn’t present, the defrost heater will need to be replaced.

4. Defrost Temperature Sensor

The next component to look at is the defrost temperature sensor, which lets the control board know the temperature near the evaporator. These sensors are made of white plastic bulbs that indicate the temperature to the control board when the defrost cycle is going on. It can also turn the power to the heater off if the refrigerator starts to get too warm.

The temperature sensors can be found in various areas of the refrigerator. However, the defrost temperature sensor is typically found on the evaporator behind the back wall in the freezer area of the refrigerator. If this part is starting to fail or has completely failed, the refrigerator may not be able to defrost. This can block the airflow and make the refrigerator warmer than it should be. It should be tested but needs to be removed from the unit first.

Similar to the defrost thermostat, the defrost temperature sensor will have wires that reach to a nearby connection point. If it can be unplugged, take it out and move on. If it doesn’t unplug, it may need to be cut out of the refrigerator. After you can access the wires or the wiring harness, the next step is to check the ambient air temperature. The ohms reading will depend on the temperature and this information will be found in the user manual.

Take your multimeter and set it to ohms and ensure it’s properly configured to read the defrost temperature sensor. Place the probes against the bare wires or the wiring harness pins and see if the ohms reading matches up with the user manual description. If the reading is off by a lot or there is no reading, the defrost sensor will need to be replaced.

5. Cold Control

If the components above are working well, the next place to look is the cold control. This part is tasked with setting the temperature inside of a refrigerator. It has a body with contacts inside and a shaft with a knob along with a sensor bulb that keeps track of the refrigerator’s current temperature. Many cold controls also include two wire terminals. Getting access to the cold control can be done by looking behind the control panel, which is behind the refrigerator control knobs.

If you have a warm refrigerator, it can be caused by a bad cold control. The sensor on the cold control creates pressure that is used to open and close contact with the sensor bulb. If the temperature of the fridge changes, it expands or contracts. If the refrigerator is too warm and the compressor isn’t activating as it should be, the contacts may be stuck.

This can be easily tested by using the end of a screwdriver to knock against the control panel. This may be able to break the contacts free. If this test makes the refrigerator start to cool, it’s a sign that the controls are stuck together and the cold control should be replaced. If this test doesn’t work, there are other options to look for problems. A multimeter can be used to see if the cold contact holds an electrical current.

First, make sure the multimeter is set to continuity and the probes have been pressed together to ensure the meter is working correctly. Next, open the control area and remove the wires. Place the cold control to “off” before placing a probe on each of the terminals. It should show no continuity. Turn back on the cold control and do the test again. If there is still no continuity, the cold control will need to be replaced.

6. Temperature Sensor

The temperature sensor is the part of the refrigerator that ensures the control board is aware of the refrigerator’s temperature at all times. The sensors are white and look like a plastic bulb. This part lets the control know the temperature to ensure the compressor starts to run when it should. Temperature sensors can be found in various places, including behind access panels, behind the back wall, or inside of air ducts.

If the temperature sensor isn’t working as it should, your refrigerator may run too long or not long enough. To test the temperature sensor, it will need to be unplugged and removed from the refrigerator. It can be tested while in the refrigerator but needs to be unplugged. Each sensor will have an ohm rating based on temperature. This information can be found in the user manual for the fridge.

Make sure your multimeter is turned to ohms before taking the probes and pressing them against the wiring harness pins or bare wires to get a reading. You should get a reading similar to the one listed on the user manual. If the reading is far off or there isn’t a reading, the temperature sensor needs to be replaced.

7. Evaporator Fan Motor

Sometimes a refrigerator might be too warm if the evaporator fan motor has gone bad. This component helps to circulate cold air throughout the entire refrigerator. Evaporator fan motors come in a variety of styles but they all do the same thing. The part has a small electric motor with a rotating shaft and a fan blade to circulate air. In most cases, the evaporator fan motor can be found in the freezer near the evaporator. Some of the new models have them in the fresh food section as well as the freezer.

Since the evaporator fan motor is continually exposed to moisture and low temperatures, the motor bearings will start to break down over time. If the bearings seize up, the fan blade can stop spinning. If your refrigerator is too warm, it is possible the motor has failed electrically or mechanically and it will need to be replaced.

After accessing the motor, check to be sure it spins freely. If it’s jammed or doesn’t spin the way it should, the bearings have gone bad and the fan motor needs replacement. If it spins fine, it needs to be tested for continuity using a multimeter. If there is a wire harness, it can be unplugged. Otherwise, a small screwdriver can be used to take the wires off the terminals. Touch the probes to the wire harness plug and terminals or the motor and terminals. If there is no continuity, it needs to be replaced.

8. Air Damper

The final reason for a warm refrigerator is a bad or malfunctioning air damper. This part determines how much cold air is circulating around the refrigerator. While there have been a variety of air dampers used in refrigerators, all of them do the same thing. The air damper contains a small motor and a door that opens and closes to change the amount of air let in from the freezer. Most of the time, air dampers are inside of a divider wall between the freezer and refrigerator.

If the damper is no longer working, it can result in a warm refrigerator. This typically happens when the gear or motor has failed or the door linkage has been broken. If you believe air circulation is the issue, first ensure that the damper hasn’t experienced a buildup of ice. In refrigerators with lower vents attached, do the same thing. The next step is to inspect the door of the air damper for damage. If it is broken, it needs to be replaced.

Assuming all of these things check out, the motor should be tested for continuity. Many dampers have a wiring harness that will need to be unplugged first. Since these motors come in various designs, you’ll need to look at the wiring diagram to determine how yours is set up. Test both the open and closed wire pins for continuity. If it isn’t present, this part will need to be replaced.

Where To Find Us 

If you need any replacement parts for your appliances, you can enter your model number at AppliancePartsPros.com to locate and order them quickly. Most orders arrive in just two business days, and we have tons of great information in our repair help section and YouTube videos to help you troubleshoot.

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