How To Replace A Washer Motor Drive Coupler (With Video!)

Are your clothes emerging from the washing machine drenched and dirty? The culprit might be a broken motor drive coupler, but don’t worry—fixing it doesn’t have to involve costly repairs or extensive downtime! Dive into our step-by-step guide, complete with a how-to video below, and bring your washer back to life with a simple DIY solution.

Need a replacement motor drive coupler for your washing machine? Search below using your specific washer model number to identify the exact part needed:

If your clothes are coming out of your washer sopping wet and still dirty, there’s a pretty good chance the drive coupler is to blame. This three piece component sits between the motor and the transmission, ensuring that power is transferred correctly and the tub turns. Couplers can break, but this doesn’t need to be an expensive or complicated fix.

With the right tools, a compatible OEM replacement part, and a bit of time, you can get your washer back in working order on the cheap. Keep reading to find out how to diagnose and replace a broken coupler, and don’t forget to check out the companion how-to video for a detailed look at each step!

How To Tell If A Washer Drive Coupler Is Bad

A direct drive coupler is made up of three pieces: Two plastic pronged couplers and a rubber isolator that sits between them. Over time or with extended use, the rubber of the isolator can grow brittle and begin to crumble, and the prongs on the couplers themselves can crack or break. This part is buried in the bottom of your washer, so how do you know if it’s gone bad?

When any parts of the motor coupler have gone bad, it will keep the washer tub from spinning. You’ll likely wind up with clothes that are still sopping wet at the end of a spin cycle, and may not be clean at all because the agitator isn’t turning. Run an empty wash cycle and keep an eye on things – if the motor sounds like it’s running, but the drum isn’t rotating, you’ve probably got a broken coupler. One more thing to check is the floor beneath your washer. If you find chunks of rubber, that’s the isolator breaking apart.

Finding The Right Replacement Part

To track down a compatible part, you’ll need to know the model of your appliance. Need help finding the model number? If you don’t have access to the manual, the model number should be on a label sticker somewhere on the appliance. Check behind the washer door, either along the wall of the front panel or on the door itself. You may also find the washer’s model number behind the kick-plate at the bottom of the washer or behind the front access panel.

Once you’ve got that, type the model number into our search bar to search AppliancePartsPros.com. We’ve got genuine washing machine replacement parts for every major brand, and they’ll be delivered to your door in just a few days. While you’re there, you can check out tips and advice from both our experts and other do-it-yourselfers.

How To Replace A Washer Motor Drive Coupler

For this tutorial, we replaced the drive coupler on a Whirlpool top-loading washer. The steps for this job will likely line up with other similar washing machine models, regardless of brand, but be sure you are buying an appropriate compatible part, and consult your manual for more specific instructions if what is outlined here doesn’t match.

You can also check out our YouTube channel for additional guides for different brands and styles of washer. We may have a video that fits your needs already!

1. Tools for the job

To replace this part, you’ll just need some standard household tools:

• A compatible replacement drive coupler
• Hammer
• Putty knife (depending on washer model)
• Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
• ¼ inch nut driver or socket
• Work gloves

2. Before you begin…

For safety, be sure to disconnect the washer from its power source, either at the wall outlet or the circuit breaker. Never complete maintenance or repairs on an appliance that is still receiving power! For this job, you will also want to turn off the hot and cold water supplies and bail any water that may be standing in your washer’s tub to avoid any surprise messes.

3. Disassemble the Washer

To begin, we’re disassembling the washer to gain access to the motor. Depending on your model of washer, this process may look a little different, but we’ve offered tips for a few different styles below.

1. Remove the control panel’s mounting hardware. Depending on your model of washer, there could be a few different ways to go about this. Consult your manual if you aren’t sure which type of control panel you’re working with.
   • Most control panels are mounted to the top of their washer by a couple of screws. You’ll find these either on the front, at the bottom of the control panel, or on the back of the washer.
   • You may need to remove the trim covers on either side of the control panel to access these screws.
   • Some models of washer require that you first release some locking tabs beneath the control panel to free it up. Carefully slide a putty knife between the washer and the control panel at the front to trigger these.
2. Flip the control panel back and out of the way. Once you have the control panel free, slide it forward about a half an inch to clear any tabs it was seated on, then flip it up and back.
3. Disconnect the lid switch. You’ll find this wire harness roughly in the center of everything beneath the control panel.
4. Remove the retaining spring clips that hold the body to the frame. You can do this with a flathead screwdriver. Check out our tutorial video for a look at how it’s done!
5. Remove the body from the frame of the washer. This step is a little involved, so consider watching how it’s done in our video before attempting it yourself!
   • Lift the lid and grab the body of the washer by the front, inside lip.
   • Put your foot against the body of the machine.
   • Tilt the body up to a 45° angle, and then lift it off the machine and set it aside.
6. Remove the pump. You’ll find the pump at the bottom of the washer. It’s held in place by two clips, and it can be pried out with a flathead screwdriver. Once the clips are off, turn them 90° to pull them out of the motor, then pull the pump off the drive shaft and set it aside.
   • If your pump is showing any signs of leaking, was difficult to remove, or is stuck on, you likely need to replace it.
7. Disconnect and remove the motor.
   • Start by removing the electrical connection. It’s held in place by a locking clip that you should be able to release by hand.
   • Next, remove the nuts securing the clips in place. You’ll need a ¼” nut driver or socket to get these out.
   • Hold the motor from the bottom as you remove it from the clips. Use a flathead screwdriver to release the top clip, turn the clip 90°, and remove it to free up the motor.
   • Pull the motor out.

4. Replacing the coupler

1. Using a claw hammer, pry the coupler off of the motor. It may be a little tight, just take care that you don’t damage the motor.
2. Remove the transmission coupler. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry it off the transmission shaft. You will need to slide it under the transmission plate to do this.
3. Put the first new coupler on the motor shaft. Line the flat portions of the coupler up with the flat parts of the shaft. Then, use a hammer to gently tap the coupler into place.
   • You can protect the coupler and ensure it isn’t pushed too far down by holding the handle end of a screwdriver to the coupler, and tapping the screwdriver, rather than the coupler.
4. Install the transmission-side coupler. Repeat this process on the transmission side, then turn the coupler so that one of the prongs is up at 12 o’clock. This will make reinstalling the motor easier.
5. Install the rubber isolator onto the motor-side coupler. Then turn the coupler until one of the holes on the isolator is at 12 o’clock.

5. Reassemble the Washer

Time to put everything back together again! For the most part, this is repeating the previous steps in reverse, but let’s review:

1. Slide the motor back into place, and then reseat the mounting clip. You will need to drop the motor down slightly to fit the clip back in, then lift it to snap the clip back into place.
2. Snap the lower clip into place and then reinstall the mounting screws.
3. Reinstall the electrical connection. It will snap into place.
4. Reinstall the pump. Make sure that the flats on the pump and the motor shaft line up before sliding it back on. Slide the pump clips back into place, then turn them 90° to snap them back into place.
5. Reattach the washer body. Lift the lid and grab the lid of the machine. Brace with your foot at the base and carefully slide the washer body back into place. Make sure you get the lower lip underneath the frame and have properly seated the body on the frame’s four locking tabs.
6. Reconnect the lid switch wire harness and then reinstall the retaining spring clips. For the clips, seat the back tab first before pushing them back into place with your flathead screwdriver.
7. Flip the control panel back around and reinstall any mounting hardware you removed when you started.
8. Time for a test run! Plug your washer in, turn the water supply back on, and do a test run without any laundry. Listen for any unusual noises and check for leaks to make sure that everything was installed properly.

Wrapping Up

If you need any replacement parts for your appliances, you can enter your model number at AppliancePartsPros.com to locate and order them quickly. Most orders arrive in just two business days, and we have tons of great information in our repair help section and YouTube videos to help you troubleshoot.

Stay connected with the latest DIY tips, tutorial videos, and repair guides by following us on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter. We love hearing about your repair stories and successes. If you need more help or want personalized guidance, feel free to contact or call us at 877-477-7278. We’re ready to help you take on your next project with confidence!

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