How To Replace A Washer’s Rotor Position Sensor Switch (With Video!)

Is your washing machine suddenly acting up and refusing to work? The culprit might be a failed rotor position sensor switch, a vital part that monitors the washer’s motor. But don’t worry—this common issue is simpler than you might think to fix yourself! Dive into our comprehensive guide below, and watch our step-by-step tutorial video to get your washer up and running in no time.

Need a replacement rotor position sensor switch for your washer? Search below using your specific washing machine model number to identify the exact part needed:

Modern washing machines rely on a number of sensors throughout the appliance that take readings and make sure every component is running right. When one of those sensors fails, the washer reacts in dramatic fashion – often, by refusing to work at all. For example, if the washer’s rotor position sensor switch, which monitor’s the washer’s motor, fails, the appliance’s computer likely won’t let the washer run at all.

That’s still pretty stressful, but you can rest a little easier knowing that this sort of problem is a quick, easy, and affordable repair. You don’t even need to hire a professional! As long as you know how to use a ratchet, you can replace this part yourself in just a few minutes, and we’ll walk you through it!

What Is A Rotor Position Sensor Switch

A rotor position sensor switch, also called an RPS or hall sensor, is a monitoring component mounted to the stator on the back of your front-loading washer’s motor assembly. It detects the position and speed of the rotor when the washer is running, reporting this information to the appliance’s control board. So, if this part fails – for instance, if it’s shorted out because of a leak at the back of the tub – the washer’s control board won’t receive this data, and the appliance likely will stop working.

How To Tell If The Rotor Position Sensor Switch Is Bad

If the rotor position sensor switch fails, it generally stops the washer from running at all. Since the control board isn’t receiving information from the sensor, it will just shut the appliance off. Depending on your brand of washer, you may see your appliance report an LE (LG) or F51 (Maytag/Whirlpool) error code.

If the component has not completely failed yet, you may also notice a few other issues.

• The washer may not fill with enough water.
• It may fill but not spin.
• It may be especially noisy when running.
• It may knock around when running.
• It may shut off during a wash cycle.

That said, these symptoms and the error codes, themselves, can also point to a variety of other washer issues, as well. If you still aren’t sure that the sensor is the cause of your washing machine woes, you can disassemble the washer enough to access the component, then use a multimeter to test the part.

The sensor switch is mounted near the tub seal and bearings, components which are prone to wearing out because of the amount of stress they are put under when the appliance runs. When these parts wear out, soapy water can leak out the back of the tub, damaging components and causing corrosion. For this reason, whether you’re testing or outright replacing this part, you should also check the tub seal and bearings for signs of damage while you have the washer disassembled.

Finding The Right Replacement Part

Finding the right part is as easy as searching for your washer’s model number, which will be on a label sticker somewhere on the appliance. Check behind the washer door, either along the wall of the front panel or on the door itself. You may also find the washer’s model number behind the kickplate at the bottom of the washer or behind the front access panel.

Armed with your model number, you can search for a compatible part at AppliancePartsPros.com. We’ve got genuine OEM washing machine parts for every major brand, and they’ll be delivered to your door in just a few days. While you’re there, you can check out tips and advice from both our experts and other do-it-yourselfers.

How To Replace A Rotor Position Sensor

In this tutorial and the companion video, we walked through replacing the rotor position sensor switch on an LG front-loading washer. Regardless of your front-loading washer’s brand or model, the rotor position sensor switch is going to be in roughly the same place – installed on or near the stator, at the back of the washer – so you should be able to use this guide no matter what washing machine you have.

That said, the steps to gain access to the stator and rotor may look a bit different depending on your appliance brand. If this guide isn’t lining up with your appliance, check out the other washer videos on our YouTube channel. We’ve got tutorials for a variety of appliance brands.

Tools for the job

To replace the rotor position sensor switch, you’ll just need a few basic tools:

• A compatible replacement sensor
• Phillips & flathead screwdrivers
• 17mm ratchet
• 10mm socket wrench
• Blue thread locker (optional)
• Work gloves

Before you begin

For safety, be sure to disconnect the appliance from power either at the wall outlet or circuit breaker. You should also shut off the hot and cold water supplies to avoid any messy spills as you disassemble your washer.

Replacing A Washer Rotor Position Sensor

1. Remove the rear access panel. Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws holding the metal panel on the back of your washer in place. Once those screws are out, you can remove the panel by pulling the top of it away from the washer, then lifting the bottom out of its tabs.
2. Remove the motor rotor bolt. It can be loosened and removed with a 17mm ratchet. The motor rotor will likely want to turn with the bolt. You can try holding it steady with one hand from the back, but if you have help, it’ll be easier to have someone at the front of the washer holding the inner tub still.
3. With the bolt out, pull the motor rotor off. It’s lined with magnets, so it will want to stay in place. Try wiggling it back and forth as you pull back to get it free.
4. With the rotor off, now is a good time to inspect the rear of the wash tub for signs of damage. If there’s a lot of rust or corrosion, or if there’s more serious damage like a broken bearing, now would be a good time to replace those parts. We have a full guide with a video tutorial available to walk you through that job.
5. Using your Phillips screwdriver, remove both the ground wire and the bracket holding the stator wiring to the assembly. These can be found just below the stator. Loosening them up now will make it easier to disconnect and reinstall things in our next steps.
6. Remove the bolts that hold the stator assembly in. On our washer, six 10mm bolts held the stator in. Hold the stator in place as you remove the last bolt so it doesn’t fall.
7. Lower the stator and turn it over to get better access to the two wire harnesses, then disconnect each wire harness. One can be squeezed to release the two locking tabs holding it in place. The other has a single release button.
8. Remove the old rotor position sensor switch from the stator. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry it free of the locking tab on the stator interior, then lift the sensor and rotate it back to free it from the other locking tabs on the stator exterior.
9. Install the new sensor. Line up the three exterior locking tabs first, then rotate the sensor down and snap it into place.
10. Reconnect the stator to the two wire harnesses. They will snap into place when properly seated.
11. Reseat the stator, then hand thread the top bolt into place so that it will remain stable while you continue to reassemble.
12. Reinstall the wire harness bracket and grounding screw you removed earlier. Make sure the wires are properly aligned beneath the bracket and aren’t being pinched beneath it.
13. Reinstall all the stator bolts. You can hand thread them all to get them started, then use your 10mm socket to tighten them all down.
14. Reinstall the rotor. Set the rotor back into place. Because of the magnets, it should stick easily once you’ve got it properly seated.
15. Apply a bit of blue thread locker to the rotor bolt if you have it. This will ensure that the bolt is reinstalled securely.
16. Reinstall the rotor bolt. Hand thread it, then use the 17mm ratchet to tighten it down. Again, the tub will want to spin as you do this, so have someone steady it from the other side, if you can.
17. Reinstall the back panel. Line the tabs at the bottom up first, then the top. You may have to flex the panel slightly to get the top tabs seated. Once it’s in place, reinstall the screws holding the back panel secure.
18. Plug it back in, turn the water on, and test it out. Your washer should run free of any error codes. If you can complete an empty wash cycle without any issues, you’re good to go!

Wrapping Up

A job like this may seem tough on paper, but with the right tools and a good guide, you’ll have your washer back in working order in no time. If you’ve got your laundry sorted and need help with something else, why not come back our way? AppliancePartsPros.com has everything you need – tips, tutorials, and genuine replacement parts – to help you fix your appliances yourself.

If you need any replacement parts for your appliances, you can enter your model number at AppliancePartsPros.com to locate and order them quickly. Most orders arrive in just two business days, and we have tons of great information in our repair help section and YouTube videos to help you troubleshoot.

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