Washing Machine Won’t Agitate: Top 8 Problems and Fixes for Top-Loading and Side-Loading Washers (With Video!)

Is your washing machine giving up on agitating, leaving you with piles of unwashed clothes? Don’t let this common household hiccup throw a wrench in your laundry day—our step-by-step troubleshooting guide is here to help! Plus, we’ve included a handy how-to video just below to walk you through resolving this issue, so you can get your washer back to work in no time.

When a washing machine stops agitating, it can make it impossible to get laundry done. There are eight different problems with washer components that can lead to this issue. Before troubleshooting the problem with your washing machine, make sure to take safety into account. The washing machine should be unplugged or the circuit breaker should be off. The hot and cold water supply should also be turned off while troubleshooting and repairing any issues. When your washer is safe to work with, follow this troubleshooting guide to determine which washer parts are to blame.

Once you have identified the part needed for your washer, search below using your specific washing machine model number to identify the exact part needed:

1. Agitator

One of the components that can lead to a washer that doesn’t agitate is the agitator itself. This is the part of the washer that agitates the clothes during a cycle. Agitators come in a variety of styles, depending on the model and year. Some are one piece while others come in two pieces. This part is only used in top-loading washers and can be found in the middle of the inner tub.

When a washer doesn’t agitate, the bottom of the agitator that connects to the coupling might be damaged. Regardless of the style you have, the agitator will need to be removed. Next, turn the agitator over and visually inspect the splines for any damage. If any of them have been damaged or are worn, they might be preventing the agitator from being driven. This will require the replacement of the component.

Two-piece agitators with no problems at the base could have worn out upper agitator parts. In most cases, the top agitator will move freely in one direction but has teeth that engage when it’s turned the other direction. If it can be spun in both directions, the teeth are probably worn and a new agitator will need to replace the old one. Sometimes the two-piece agitator comes as a full assembly, but other times, you may be able to buy an agitator repair kit.

If the agitator can be rebuilt, take it apart so you can look at all the pieces and determine what isn’t working. The kits will come with all the pieces that commonly wear out so you can continue using the original agitator with new parts attached. The upper agitator should also be inspected. If it’s damaged, cracked, or has worn out teeth, it will need to be replaced.

2. Agitator Coupling

The agitator coupling is the next part that should be looked at if a washer is no longer agitating. This part connects the agitator with the drive shaft. Agitator couplings can come in various styles and are made of metal or plastic. In most cases, these parts will have splines that hold the agitator in place to drive it. If your washer is no longer agitating and the agitator has no issues, the agitator coupling may have gone bad. 

These couplings can be found under the pulsator or agitator at the top of the drive shaft. Remove the agitator to get access to the agitator coupling so you can inspect it for damage. Once you can see the agitator coupling, look for damage like cracks or broken splines. This is a sign that the coupling has failed and should be replaced. 

The next step is taking the coupling off the drive shaft for further inspection. The bottom of the coupling may have flats or splines that lock the agitator down. If these are worn out, the coupling will spin freely on the shaft and may contribute to a washer not agitating. In this situation, the agitator coupling needs to be replaced. 

3. Coupler

The coupler can also be the source of a washing machine that isn’t agitating. This part is tasked with connecting the motor and transmission on older models of direct-drive top-loading washers. Couplers have three distinct pieces and are often made of plastic and rubber. Each of the parts works with the others to make the motor spin the transmission. One of the plastic parts will connect to the motor; the other will be located on the transmission. The rubber piece is placed in between the two plastic components and can help absorb vibrations.

When a coupler is broken or stops working, you may notice that the motor is running and making sound but the washer isn’t agitating or spinning. Sometimes the coupler can also create loud noises if the broken pieces start to grind against each other. A broken coupler also may lead to broken pieces of rubber or plastic underneath the washing machine. If the coupling is bad, the component needs to be replaced.

4. Drive Belt

The next component to look at when a washing machine doesn’t agitate is the drive belt. This part connects to both the motor pulley and the drive pulley so the inner tub can agitate and spin. Drive belts come in both a multi-groove style and a V style. Either kind of belt can cause the washing machine to stop agitating if it’s overly stretched out, broken, or has fallen off. Top-loading washers will have the belt at the bottom of the machine, while front-loading washers have the belt on the back of the washer.

Once you find the belt, visually inspect it for any damage present. If it has fallen off of the washer, placing it back where it goes can sometimes resolve the problem. However, if it’s stretched out or has become damaged, a replacement will need to be made. Some of the other symptoms that the drive belt may no longer be working the way it should be include an erratically spinning tub, the scent of burning rubber, or squealing sounds during the wash and spin cycles.

Replacing a belt involves accessing it and taking it off the drum unless it is already unattached. If the belt has broken or snapped, it won’t be located on the pulleys but you will find it at the bottom of the washer. The new belt should be the same make and model as the old one so it fits the same way. Simply align the new belt around the pulley, ensuring the flat side faces out. Attach the belt to the pulley and then loop the other end around the motor pulley. Then spin the washing machine so the part aligns.

5. Door Latch Assembly

One of the main safety components of a washing machine is the door latch assembly but, if it isn’t in working order, it can prevent the machine from agitating. This part alerts the washer that the door is closed when you press it shut. Different washing machines have distinct door latch assemblies but for any of them, if it stops working, the signal won’t make it to the washer that the door is locked and closed. This will prevent it from agitating.

Depending on the washer, it may fill the tub when the assembly isn’t working but it will not agitate or spin. If you have a washer with a diagnostic mode and have attempted to run the machine a few times, an error code will come up that you can read. To get to the door latch assembly, it will be behind the front panel for a front-loading washer and on the top for a top-loading washing machine. Before opening things up, make sure to look at the door strike to see if it is damaged.

If you are getting an error code and your washing machine isn’t agitating, you can look up appliance error codes for your model at AppliancePartsPros.com.  Those who don’t have codes but who think the latch might not be working, the wiring diagram or user manual can offer additional information about how to determine what’s wrong for the specific model you have.

6. Motor Control Board

The motor control board is the component that controls the speed and direction of the motor inside the washing machine. When the washer isn’t agitating, this could mean that the part is no longer working. Newer washers are the most likely to have a separate board that is tasked with all the motor functions. When it’s not working, it may have trouble sending power to the motor so it can’t agitate a load of laundry.

On a top-loading washer, the motor control board is most likely going to be found in the control panel. With a front-loading washing machine, it’s often going to be mounted on the bottom at the base of the machine. To determine whether this part is working, make sure the wiring connections are security plugged in between the motor and board. This is also the time to look for corrosion or other damage that means the board isn’t working correctly.

If these parts seem to be working well but the washer is still not agitating, a look at the user manual can offer additional troubleshooting methods. This will allow you to test the motor control board further to determine whether it’s in working order. If it isn’t, it will need to be replaced.

7. Drive Motor

Another component that can lead to problems with agitation is the drive motor. It’s made to take in electrical energy and turn it into mechanical energy which drives the motor. Many types of drive motors are available in washing machines, including those that have a direct drive motor and others with a belt and pulley system. If the drive motor isn’t working the way it should be, it can result in a washer that will not agitate. 

Front-loading washers typically have the drive motor on the back of the tub or the bottom of the tub; the latter is for belt-driven models while the former is for direct drive washers. For top-loading washing machines, the motor is going to be found toward the bottom of the unit.

If the motor is experiencing problems, it can create a humming noise when it begins to start up. Determining whether the motor has gone bad starts with checking whether the transmission is locked up or the drain pump is blocked. Those with a top-loading washer will often need to remove the transmission to see where it’s locked up.

After the motor has been removed from the washing machine, be sure it’s not jammed. Take a look at the pump and see whether any blockages are present. Models with belts can have them removed to see if the tub and motor spin manually. With direct drive washing machines, the rotor can be turned to inspect the same thing. If the tub, pump, and motor aren’t experiencing issues, electrical issues might be present.

8. Water Level Switch

The final component to check on when a washer won’t agitate is the water level switch. It is tasked with controlling how much water goes into the washer. This is a pressure switch that can turn off the water when the correct level is reached. It then sends power to the motor so the wash cycle can begin. The switch has two sets of contacts. One sends power to the inlet valve until the washing machine is full and the other sends power to the tub once the water level has been reached. 

Top-loading washing machines will have a water level switch mounted on the control panel and front-loading washers will have the component mounted on the upper cabinet frame. If the washer doesn’t agitate when it is full, the contacts responsible for sending power to the motor may have gone bad. If the washer doesn’t agitate on a front-loading washer, there might be an error code. The user manual will offer troubleshooting steps that you can go through to handle the problem. 

For top-loading machines, the switch will need to be tested using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to continuity and use the wiring diagram to find the right wires to test. Remove the switch and take the wires from the wiring harness. Place the probes to the power and motor terminals and you should not have continuity. Blow into the hose fitting on the switch and it should have continuity. If it doesn’t, the switch needs to be replaced.

Where To Find Us 

If you need any replacement parts for your appliances, you can enter your model number at AppliancePartsPros.com to locate and order them quickly. Most orders arrive in just two business days, and we have tons of great information in our repair help section and YouTube videos to help you troubleshoot.

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