Found the service manual on line. It contained an approximate wiring diagram. I worked in an electronics lab environment for 40 years so am comfortable with schematics. Removed the front control panel, side trim and cooktop. It wasn't that bad. Using my Multimeter on the resistance scale (ohms), I determined that the element (and thermal switches attached) were ok.
Moved on to the switch. The switch has electronics in it so you can't really do much continuity testing. Couldn't find internal spec sheet on switch. Still, I wanted some sort of sign the switch was definately the problem. Mucked around with that for a while. S.O. says can't you just replace suspect switch with switch from other working burner and test. You'd think I would have tried that right off the bat wouldn't ya. Proved bad switch. Ordered new switch. Got it in two days (didn't elect for overnight service). R and R. Everything works. Gotta go. Lawn mower wants to take a walk.