Ge WB24T10147 Spdt Switch (High-Amp) OEM Part

Replaced faulty latch with new latch. New latch was different configuration, but the fit was okay. The only issue was that the wires to the electric motor were just barely long enough. Overall easy repair if you have a T15 Torx bit, phillips screwdriver, and 1/4" nut driver. Hardest part is removing the gas cooktop to gain access to the cleaning latch. 0. Turn off electric to stove; remove the cast iron grates, center caps/orifices, and catch pans from the stovetop. 1. Disconnect the gas burners from the cooktop using the T15 torx driver. 2. Pull the ignitors up from the cooktop and disconnect the wires (they just pull off of the ignitor). 3. Use a flat blade screwdriver (or similar tool) to push in the spring catch holding the stovetop on the right/left front of the stove. 4. Lift the top and pull forward. There are hinge pins at the back of the stovetop that will come out when lifted to a certain angle. 5. Remove cover plate over latch using 1/4" nut driver. 6. Open oven door and remove two screws holding the latch. There is also a 1/4" nut-screw holding the old latch from the top. Remove the latch. 7. Take note of the wires that go to the motor (x2) and to each switch (x4). Remove the wires from the old latch and reconnect to the new latch, ensuring the wires are reconnected to the proper switches and motor. This is CRITICAL for new part to function correctly. If you are unsure, it is best to have an appliance repairman do the installation. 8. Follow procedures in reverse to put things back together.

Replace switch

Replace with both new one, there are the original parts the i replace, they were both poor design by GE. The roller are very weak, they don't last. The new ones are a lot better.

Went to the local appliance parts store with the dead switch in hand. It has a P.N. right on it but they claimed they needed the model number of the stove I didn't have with me. Went home, got on line without the stove info, found the switch, ordered it and it arrived the next day without even buying overnight shipping. Literally popped in the new switch in about 30 seconds.

After testing virtually all circuits and relays, I identified the door switch as the culprit. The conv. fan is on the door switch circuit, but the conv. heater element is not. So, with this oven, if you set the oven to Conv. Bake, the conv. element heats but no fan runs. The oven temp sensor is located on the back wall of the oven above the conv. element. Without the fan running and dispersing the heat from the element all around the oven interior as it would normally do, the area at the back of the oven would get very hot and trip the temp. sensor relay and shut down the heating element before the entire oven area would reach temperature. After installing the door/light switch, the conv. fan ran and heater ran for the proper length of time to get proper temp. A $7 part fixed it.