Lg 4036ER2004A Tub Seal Gasket OEM Part

Repair went fairly smoothly by following the EXCELLENT how-to video provided. I had only a few issues and suggestions. 1. Because many of the screws and fasteners are of multiple sizes, I would recommend laying them out in a muffin tray or on a paper with labels for where they go back. 2. After removing the weights and prepping to remove the shock absorbers, after the front ones were removed, the tub tilted so far the rear shock absorber separated. The friction pads fell out. It was easy to reassemble but at first I thought the item had broken. I removed one of the good ones to see how it had been assembled. 3. A nut driver (9/32) works better for the screws with hex heads, especially on the hose removals where visibility may be poor and access a bit tight. 4. Note that the rotor assembly has what appears to be a ceramic center. Take care to not damage. Also when replacing, if it is difficult to install (stator is magnetized), once you get it started, you can snug it up by carefully tightening the bolt. Then remove the bolt and properly install with the blue thread sealer. 5. The most difficult job was probably the reinstallation of the larger spring on the front gasket. My total time to do the job was a bit under 5 hours but that included stopping often to clean parts or review the video (on my iPad - very handy). Disassembly, parts cleaning and bearing removal was approx 3 hours. The reassembly went a bit faster. If all your parts come with detailed instructions such as for this bearing replacement, I would definitely use appliancepartspros.com for future needs. Great Job.

Looked online at several websites to see if I could figure out the problem Came across AppliancePartsPros video on replacing bearings. Watched it a couple of times and determined (well, guessed) it was the bearings and/or spider. Followed the video (great job by the way) and disassembled the washer. The spider was cracked on one arm so ordered a new one from this site. I also ordered two new bearings and the bearing seal b/c learned from the web and local appliance store that they go bad in 7+ yrs. I also ordered the seal b/t the two halves of the outer drum. Thought "what the heck", it's worth it to buy approx $120 in parts to try to fix vs buying a new washer ($900) which wouldn't match size or looks of our dryer. Installed the new parts and re-assembled. It works just like new....go figure!! The video was excellent and the sound and camera were perfect. The guy is mellow so that's good (says the Mrs. who checked in from time to time). The only things I would change is to specifically call out was the difference b/t red and blue lock tight. I bought red, but then listened to the video again and realized there's a difference so bought blue. When re-installing the bearings, make sure you have a longer punch with an end that is narrow, but not pointed and only tap the outer ring. It should be at least 8" long. The other thing about this whole repair is that the grey rubber seal b/t the washer and the door (a) does not go on as easy as the video so give it time, and (b) the inside wire connector takes some serious stretching to hook the loop to the hook. OK, what else? Well, I can say that I'm semi-mechanically inclined. The first 15 minutes of the video covered disassembly. It took me less than 3 hours. The second 15 minutes of the video took 15 minutes. It took me 2+ hours. Now keep in mind, I've only replaced the circuit board on this washer (w/o video), but for this job I set up and watched the video on the laptop, hit pause, and did each step. Allow time for pre and post- work, e.g. moving the dryer, picking up the floor, shutting off/turning on washer/gas/ whatever else is in your laundry room. Have some extra lighting available (flashlight/trouble light/etc if your area is darker). Also good idea to have some of your favorite music plus a beverage of choice for a reward. Good news is that you can do this!

Our LG “Tromm” washer (a.k.a. “Trommy Baby”) started making a horrible whirring racket a couple weeks ago--especially during the spin cycle. My husband called a repairman who said the bearings were shot; it would be 2 weeks in the shop and about $700 for parts and labor. “Might as well buy a new one”, he suggested. After showing the repairman the door, I was told the bad news. “Only eight years old and Trommy Baby’s ready for the scrap heap? No way! Someone on the internet knows how to fix this thing!” Well, lo and behold, Appliance Parts Pros had the parts AND a video! We followed the video almost exactly... I ordered the parts on Wednesday, we tore the thing down on Thanksgiving evening, and reassembled it Friday morning when the parts arrived. Total repair time was about 6 hours (2.5 to tear it down, 1.5 to thoroughly scrub all the nasty parts--especially the tub and gasket, and another 2 hours to reassemble). As others had suggested, to ease the bearings in place easier, we put them in the fridge for an hour or so and used a blow dryer to heat the recess where the bearings fit. I used a rubber mallet around the edges to insert the smaller bearing. For the larger one, I held a 6-inch length of cedar lath on the edges of the bearing and tapped it with a hammer. Driving the bearings in is slow-going, but they eventually slid into place perfectly. Putting the gasket back on was a bit of a chore, so be patient. Overall, the repair was not difficult, but there are a lot of steps. Anyway, by 2:30 Friday afternoon, Trommy Baby was all back together, happily doing a load of whites with whisper quiet abandon! Woo hoo! You go, Trommy!

I noticed the bearings getting noisy on my LG washer. I am an Engineer in the Industrial Laundry Industry so figuring out what was going wrong wasn't my biggest challenge. I began searching for parts and how to videos on the web and I found AppliancePartsPro.com. I couldn't be more impressed. The video was 95% accurate. I did have one extra screw in my control panel which the video did not know about and some of my parts were a little different but no matter, the instructional video was awesome. I watched it completely before starting and then used it step by step. I am a big believer that haste makes waste. I was not in a race with the clock to get this done. I set aside a Saturday, started in the morning and got done when I got done. Everything was as easy as the video showed until I had to remove the shaft from the bearings. Mine didn't fall out after a couple of hits as in the video. It took me over two hours to free the shaft from the bearings. I needed very good penetrating oil to break the rust and run down the shaft to get into the second bearing as well. My machine was not in bad condition and there wasn't much rust yet I needed a 2 pound hammer and destroyed several pieces of 1' oak board beating on the shaft. Eventually it came out. I replaced the bearings, shaft seal, outer tub seal and the spider/shaft. I didn't need to replace the spider/shaft but I had ordered one based on the high probability I would need to. Since I had it, I replaced it. I reassembled the machine and it works like new. One thing the video did not address is why the bears failed. I also saw some questions about it so I will tell you what I have learned from my 20 years of washer maintenance. Two things make bearings fail prematurely. The most common cause of failure is water damage. When the shaft seal begins to leak, the first thing to get wet is the inner bearing next to it. The water will make its way into the bearing and damage it. First the bearing will become noisy and eventually it will fail. This can be occurring without having puddles of water on the floor. This root cause is confirmed when you disassemble the machine and inspect the shaft seal. The seal will be in poor condition and the bearing will be rusted. The second reason a bearing fails is because the shocks are worn out. I require the suspension to be replaced as part of bearing jobs on our industrial washers. On my residential washer, I did not replace the shocks because I found the shaft seal was in very bad condition and it was the obvious problem. I checked my shocks and they seemed fine. Perhaps this is always the case with these washers, I don't know, I don't have any history other than what I have read on this site. I've seen some questions about why the bearings fail and if there are better bearings which won't fail. The problem isn't the bearings. The problem is the shaft seal. If you want to keep your bearings from failing, then replace your shaft seal every year or two and replace your shocks every 3 or 4 years. Unfortunately, you still have to take the whole machine apart to replace the shaft seal. This would be the smart thing to do but "if it ain't broke don't fix it" mentality will prevent most of us from doing so.

If your LG Front load washers sounds like a freight train, STOP USING IT. You're doing more damage and will need more parts to fix it. After the noise became unbearable, I began to explore and disassemble. I knew enough to know the bearings must be bad but had never done this repair before. ( I am however pretty mechanically inclined.) Watch this video before you start tearing your LG apart. APP did a great job explaining the steps of the repair. Do a search on this site or youtube.com with the main bearing part number: 4280fr4048. It will make the repair much easier, trust me. The repair requires that you completely remove the tub. Don't be intimidated, it's not that hard if you watch the video, just a lot of steps. Once you have the tub out and the rear tub assembly with the bad bearings unbolted from the front half, and have tapped out the tub spider / shaft. This is where things can get rough. Most likely your bearings are trashed, (that was what was making all the noise) and rusted in place. DON'T RUSH THIS STEP. Pounding out the old bearings or remaining outer ring from the bearing chases in the rear tub assembly might be tough. First, remove the pieces that are falling off or broken out and clean up the area so you can see what you are doing. Drench both bearings with some kind of penetrating oil like lock-ease or WD-40 so it will free up the bearings from the chase they are seated into, and go relax for while, (I waited until the next day and it payed off big-time). Get the right tools: I used a 1" deep well socket with a square edge so I could get a good grab on the left over outer ring of the bearing, and a 6" extension. Understand the bearings are made of hardened steel and your socket is not so as you tap and pound out the bearings, keep an eye on the damage you may be doing to the socket. You may be working through the inner hole in the old bearings opposite the bearing your are pounding out, and won't be able to see well what you are tapping or pounding on when you remove the first bearing. So be careful to use a solid flat head punch or socket like I did to avoid scoring the walls of the bearing chase. And switch positions a lot, few pops with your hammer and move to the opposite side 12-6, 9-3 on the clock and so on, over and over until you drive it out. Now, flip the tub assembly over and tap / pound out the other bearing the same way. Warning! Don't use the the wrong tools when pounding out the bearings. Don't use a screw driver! If you don't have a good flat head punch or some sockets you don't mind possibly sacrificing, go buy a good steel flat head punch. If you find you are wearing out your arm pounding, add more penetrating oil and take another break. DO NOT damage the bearing chases pounding out the opposite side bearing by resting your punch or extension against the edges of the opposite chases, (polished male recessed ring the bearings slide into) or you'll end up having to also buy a rear tub assembly at about $125.00. The chases are manufactured into the rear tub assembly. So be careful! Once you get the bearings out and the chases on both sides and the chases cleaned up. Inspect the chases closely. If you nicked then or crushed the edges in any way that causes the otherwise perfect circle to push in and potentially put undo pressure on the new bearing, you'll need to grind or file it down so the new bearing will fit into the chase properly, and not apply pressure to one spot of the bearing after you get it fully seated into the chase. If you made it this far, the hard part is over. Congrats! The next ussue you may run into is seating the drum back into the rear tub assembly. If you had to replace the spider which is also the tub shaft also like I did because a waited too long and trashed it too, in my case it did not easily slip completely into place, through the inner holes of the bearings. In an effort to try and seat the shaft to how far it extended originally, I placed a folder towel on the center of the back/bottom of the tub, and used a 1 1/2 foot 4x4 block of wood and carefully gave it a few hard pops with a hammer. It seated a little further but not fully so I stopped to avoid damaging the tub. I had another option to pull it on into place later during assembly. During re-assembly, when you put the motor cover back on and screw the large hex head bolt into the end of the shaft, if the shaft is not fully seated through the bearings and flush with the surface of the female motor housing, use the bolt to pull it on into place by repeatedly tightening the bolt by hand and pounding your ratchet handle 1/4 to 1/2 a full turn. Then back it out completely and inspect to verify you are pulling it closer to flush and not damaging to the motor housing. Repeat this process a little at a time until the shaft end is flush with the motor housing. This will completely seat the shaft, and the main seal on the inside will do it's job in sealing the bearings from tub moisture and possible leaks. From hear it should be smooth sailing. Follow the video instructions for reassembly. Once your done, congratulate yourself and know that you just saved yourself about $400 in labor and service call charges!